Prague

Our first views of Praha as the train neared the station were overshadowed by the dark sky and light rain which had been falling since we had left Cologne. We were pleasantly surprised as we were welcomed into Sir Toby's hostel with a free barbecue for all guests. As it was late and we hadn't had time to visit any shops to collect dinner items we joined the other people out in the courtyard for dinner.


After dumping our bags we went to the bar in the hostel and had a lovely few glasses of wine in the good company of two English lads- Barney and Ed. After a few drinks we decided at their suggestion to check out the five level club in the centre of Praha.


The rain had stopped as we took the tram into the city and we were overwhelmed with the beauty of the buildings and Charles' Bride which was decorated with lights.


We had an enjoyable night in the club, although there was some fairly shocking music being played (especially on the '80s' level), accompanied by some pretty shocking dancers. We made our way back to the hostel with the boys at around 6am and immediately collapsed into bed.


The following morning we had a delicious buffet breakfast and celebrated the fact that the sun was again shining.


We dressed and made our way to the beautiful castle that sits atop a hill on the outskirts of the city. The view from the top of the hill is spectacular... As one is able to admire Praha's iconic, medieval-style buildings.


We wandered through the the castle and then back down the hill to the Charles Bridge where we fought amongst tourists for a good snapshot of the river.


We had a Caesar salad for a late lunch in a great little cafe on the edge of the Jewish quarters. To watch the sunset for the evening we headed to the old section of town where the atmosphere was buzzing.


That evening we joined many others on a pub crawl of the city, and had a great conversation at one of the bars with a woman who was working for Amnesty International in the area of Women's Rights. We were very inquisitive and likewise jealous of her position and so bombarded her with questions for over an hour.


We ended our pub crawl early as the last stop was at the five level club which Nina and I agreed was definitely a 'once' experience.


The next day we went to the Jewish quarters but were unfortunately met with cold winds and rain. The rain created a very sombre and almost creepy mood as we wandered around the Jewish cemetery. Unlike most other cemeteries which have a very geometrical design, this one has layers of graves on top of one another and tombstones falling towards the centre.
This is due to the fact that for centuries the Jews were secluded to a ghetto and were therefore only given little space for each building.
The cemetery itself is very small, however we noticed on our information brochure that there is a separate summer and winter path advised for tourists. This is due to the fact that the cemetery is covered under layers of snow in the winter and imaginably is accompanied by temperatures well below zero.


For lunch that day we returned to Mistral cafe after we were so satisfied at the quality and price of the food.


The weather worsened that afternoon so we made our way back to the hostel and sat down in the bar to relax. We later met three girls- Kara, Kate and Elzy with whom we chatted and spent the following day together.


The weather was even more dreary the next day as we left the hostel to check out the flea market. It didn't take us long to realise it was just another market selling fake designer bags and other useless junk and so we headed back into the city.


We wandered around for a while however as the rain got heavier we again retired to Mistral cafe in the hope that it might clear in a few hours time.


After lunch we went to a great little bookshop Nina and I had found days before with an impressive collection of English books.


For dinner that evening we had a delicious pasta at a restaurant close to the hostel and went to bed early as Nina and I had a train at 9am the following day.


As much as I believe Praha to be a beautiful city, due to the poor weather I don't feel as if I got to know it like I did Paris and Berlin. Also, in all of the cities we had visited so far, Nina and I had always either sought out or stumbled upon the groovy, less touristy part of the city with the great shops and cafes, and we hadn't yet found this in Praha. I think that leaves nothing to say but that I will have to return in the near future to explore the city further.

Cologne

Our time in Cologne staying with Sarah, Andre and their kids Isabelle, Conrad and Felicia was luxurious to say the least.
Having been already told about the Peto-Madew mansion, we were both very excited to see it in the flesh. It is an amazing four storey, architectural wonderland that sits among edifices of the same size on the edge of the park.


I was overwhelmed not only by the interesting design of the house itself but also of the impressive collection of artworks from a range of well-known artists lining the interior walls of the house.


In the early evening Sarah took us for a bike ride through the park, a nice routine she has developed as it is the only spare hour in her day and it gives her a chance for a breath of fresh air.


Having not seen this family for many years, we spent the first evening catching up on the past few years and Nina and I shared many stories of our adventures so far.
Sarah and Andre also informed us of the best things to see in Koln.


Our morning began with another walk through the park, Nina and I both grateful for the opportunity for a nice place to exercise.


After taking the tram into the city, we went to the Roman-German Museum where we visited a number of exhibitions detailing the history of the Romans in Koln.


We then visited Cafe Perfetto after a recommendation from Andre that it was the best place in the city for a coffee. He was indeed correct- quick service and a delicious cappuccino.


I then farewelled Nina who was heading to Dusseldorf for the evening to see some of her family friends and made my way to the Friesenplatz area to have a wander around. There is clearly a strong art culture in this city as I discovered the wealth of little galleries hidden around every corner whilst walking around.


I decided to sit down for a nice lunch alone after stumbling upon a cute little cafe, Candia. I had a delicious aglio, olio and pepperoncino spaghetti and an Apfelshorle, a drink served everywhere in Germany.
For the hour or so I sat in the cafe I was provided with great entertainment as I watched the lady next to me give her little pooch the royal treatment.


Dogs are held in high esteem by their owners throughout much of Europe, and are welcome on public transport and in restaurants and cafes. She had her pup beside her and was feeding it individual fries and pieces of her leftover steak, all the while comforting it with compliments.


In the afternoon I visited the Ludwig Museum, the contemporary art gallery. There were some interesting works showcased in the gallery, but my favourite without question was Miro's 'Love'.


As soon as I stepped in the front door of the house that afternoon I was led by Felicia to her bedroom to start another game of monopoly. We continued to play for hours until it was time for dinner where Sarah kindly prepared us another delicious meal. We followed dinner with a cup of tea and spoke for hours, After which everyone retired to bed.


On Wednesday I walked into the city through the parks and met with Nina outside the city's amazing cathedral. We took a moment to go inside, and the most impressive aspect was the recently added mosaic glass window which was the work of Gerhard Richter, apparently the most highly paid artist alive.


We had an hilarious few hours as Nina and I were amazed at the amount of stories that can be shared having had only 24 hours apart.


We walked to St Ursula's church after lunch and visited the tiny room which is full of bones from the 11,000 virgins (apparently it had originally been 11 virgins but after the trade of their bones was bringing successes, so they conveniently changed the story to 11,000).


That afternoon, eager for some fresh air, Nina and I went for another ride through the park and on arriving back home were again persuaded into a game of monopoly by the charming Felicia. For dinner Sarah and Andre spoiled us with a very gourmet barbecue and accompanying salads.


Our last day in Koln we spent seeing a few more sites of the city. We went to the Kolumba Art Gallery and saw the new exhibition, but what is great about this building is that it stands on the original site of an old church and uses parts of the original edifice in it's contemporary design.


To celebrate our final night with the family Sarah prepared a typically Swiss dish of melted cheese on potatoes, a favourite of all of her kids.


We woke early the next morning and said goodbye to the family, extremely grateful to all of them for their hospitality and good company over the last few days. We said goodbye to Koln and prepared ourselves for the long day of travel as we made our way to Praha.

An Historian's Dreamland.

I am grateful to Germany for having such an interesting history, as it was perhaps the single thing that kept me sane in between the thousands of Maths equations and English essays.


As one of the four topics for modern history our class studied Germany from 1918 to 1939 which was perhaps the most crucial time in the country's history after the horrific First World War and during the rise of the Nazi party amongst other notable events. For this reason I was eager to get to the capital to see in the flesh the sites I had spent so long studying about. The high expectations I had of Berlin were not exaggerated, and somehow the city managed to exceed them.


The first two nights we stayed a fair way from the centre of the city near Treptower park. We arrived late on a Sunday and as everything was closed we were forced to dine amongst some strange types in a local pub. The food was very basic, and so we made it a very quick dinner and returned to our apartment.


As much of the city is closed on Monday, we decided to walk to the longest remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall at the Eastside Gallery. As it began to pour on our way through the streets of the rather cool Kreuzberg, we stopped for an Apfelshorle in a great little cafe called Die FABRIK. It was a groovy joint filled with the appropriate people and had a very friendly waitress.


As the rain began to soften we made our way to the wall and took numerous photos of the graffiti that stretched the entire 1.3km. We also stopped and wrote our names where many others had done the same to mark our visit to the wall, in my case in the hope of returning soon to see it again.


We then made our way over to Checkpoint Charlie, the landmark that stands in the middle of the city and signals a very significant historical era as it was the busiest crossover point during the time when the wall divided the city.


We visited the museum and spent hours reading the very interesting attempted escapes of many Germans whose lives had been harshly disrupted after the construction of the wall.


As the sun had set for the day we returned home and cooked a quick meal before getting in to bed to read our books as the rain continued to fall outside.


Tuesday morning we moved into St Christopher's hostel in Rosa-Luxemburg Platz in the heart of the Mitte district, what immediately became my favourite area of the city.


The Mitte district is the cultural heart of Berlin- the streets are filled with thousands of galleries exhibiting the works of up and coming artists, there are groovy cafes on every corner and amongst all of this there is some of the best shopping I have ever experienced. In other words, I was in my very own heaven.


We filled the day very easily wondering around these streets soaking up the sun as well as the thriving atmosphere of Mitte. We found a great burrito/soup/salad bar 'Dolores' which became our little hangout for the rest of the week for it's amazing quality and backpacker prices.


We visited a great store of a local Berlin fashion designer named Esther Perbandt. After admiring all of her work, Nina purchased a fabulous black suede coat for a great price.


We arrived back at the hostel late that evening and made the most of happy hour sitting in the bar enjoying a few drinks. We were both happy as there were televisions around the room broadcasting various sports including the Rugby World Cup and more surprisingly, AFL.


We met two British guys, Will and John, who later introduced us to their other friends and who we joined on an expedition to a gay bar on the other side of the city. Had we known Tuesdays were the quietest nights in Berlin we probably wouldn't have bothered, as the bar was empty and the neighbourhood dead quiet. It was nice though to spend the evening in some new company.


Throughout much of North-Eastern a number of the concentration and labour camps used in the war still stand and are open to visit for tourists. We decided the following day to make the 90 minute journey to Sachsenhausen, one of the most important camps in Germany, with two other Australian girls, Penny and Ardy.


Sachsenhausen was a significant camp in Germany as it was one of the first built and was therefore used as a mould for other camps in the future. It was also important as, towards the end of the war when the Soviets where marching into Germany, many people from the camps were moved there and many stayed even after the end of the war.


It was certainly a moving experience, and much of the information we were told on our tour was hard to comprehend.


As Sachsenhausen was built in (1933), it was originally a place for the Nazis to send their political opposition- the communists. Therefore it is actually classified as a labour camp rather than a concentration camp as the people were forced into working.
As the years went by it continued to be filled with anyone who was considered opposition to the Nazis but it wasn't until about (1939) that the Jewish people started arriving.


We were given an insightful explanation about every element of the camp, and were told many figures about the number of fatalities in the camp, the most devastating being that of the 200,000 that resided there over the years, only about 38,000 survived.


We were invited by Penny and Ardy to join them for dinner at a nice restaurant they had discovered the previous evening. We had a great evening at 'Good Morning Vietnam' where we each enjoyed a traditional Vietnamese curry and I rejoiced in the fact that it had a bit of spice to it.
After dinner we returned to the hostel and sat down in the bar for some more drinks with the many other hostel guests.


On Thursday morning the rain had unfortunately returned along with the unexpected freezing temperatures and so we went to the Jewish Museum. Architecturally the building is fascinating, and the inside of the building is almost like a maze as one follows the different exhibitions around the room.


After the museum we went back to the hostel to meet Ardy who wasn't feeling well, and then ate lunch at Dolores. In the afternoon Nina and I were eager to explore the other side of Mitte which we hadn't seen yet and so we left the others and went for a wander. We found a nice little cafe called the barn where we sat down for a coffee, only to discover the entire staff were had Australian accents and were communicating in English. It did not come as a surprise as the entire four months we'd been travelling so far we'd met more Australians than any other nationality.


Whilst wandering around Mitte we stopped at every second window to admire the clothes and shoes on display, and resisted buying anything except a cardigan which I greatly needed as we were beginning to feel the cool Autumn Weather which would only get cooler for the rest of our days in Europe.


The next day the clouds and light rain that was falling outside reflected Nina's state as she felt unwell from the previous day.


I spent the morning enjoying the cold in my wool coat and spent hours walking and listening to my iPod. As the rain got heavier I stopped in at a little art gallery and had a look around and then had a coffee. For an hour or so I sat writing my blog and enjoying the time by myself. On the way back to the hostel I bought a cool necklace which I found in a great little shop in AuguststraBe.


In the afternoon Nina's state hadn't improved and neither had the weather so I caught the train over to Kreuzberg to further explore the district. I revisited Die FABRIK and to my surprise was recognised by the waitress who helped me translate the menu to find something to order.


We had another delicious dinner of papaya noodle salad and rice paper rolls at Good Morning Vietnam.


On Saturday we both eagerly made our way to the old Templehof airport for the Berlin Music Festival. We had a wander through the art display and had a quick curry for lunch before the acts started. Over the course of the evening we saw some fantastic live music including The Naked & Famous, Beirut, Boyz Noise, The Bloody Betroots, Tune-yards and Mogwai.


The next day we followed our tradition of seeking out the city's walking tour and made our way to the Brandenburg gate to meet the guide.


Our guide Tom from England was incredible! His knowledge of 800 years of German history and his ability to remember every name and date was impressive. It was slightly depressing though as his wealth of knowledge made me feel as if I knew nothing in comparison, although it did make me eager to continue studying German history in more depth.


On the tour we went to the many historical monuments including the Reichstag, the Memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe, the site of Hitler's bunker, the remnants of the Berlin wall and the old Nazi Airforce building. We also spent a while in Paris square where we saw the famous Adlon Hotel and the American and French embassies. We noticed the American flag was flying half-mast and remembered it was the tenth anniversary of the Twin Towers attacks. Tom also told us that for the suite in the Adlon hotel it is only €15,000 per night with which one gets a personal butler and limousine.


We had to leave the walking tour early as Nina and I had an appointment at the Reichstag of which we had to be prompt.
We went up into the top dome of the Reichstag and had a great view over the city and it's many sites.


A few hours later as we watched the sky turn a freaky black we went back to the Museum at the Memorial to the Jews. If anyone has seen the Memorial they will understand that walking through there as the lightning and thunder continued above us would understand that it was a very eerie and rather creepy experience. The Museum was well worth the visit as it tells the story of individuals and families that were victims of the holocausts and therefore tries to put identities to the figures of which we sometimes throw around too loosely.


We celebrated our final night in Berlin with a delicious burrito at Dolores and both regretted the fact that we were leaving in the morning.


On our way to Koln I realised how much I loved Berlin, and I can see it as a city in which I would definitely want to live. Away from the touristy sites (such as in Mitte and Kreuzberg) I find it a very relaxing but at the same time very 'happening' place, and I could easily picture myself joining the thousands of others on bikes on their way to work each day.

Esslingen

We were now heading into the country I was most excited to explore for it's wealth of history and culture.


Our first stop in Deutschland was in the small town of Esslingen where we spent a quick two nights visiting Nina's lovely and very charismatic grandma, Omi.


We were given an enthusiastic welcome to her home as she waved us in from her fifth floor balcony. When I stepped in the door her warmth and eagerness to provide us with a comfortable hospitality was prevalent, as was her desire to practise her few English phrases.


Literally seconds after arriving at the apartment I was introduced to one of the many German traditions that is practiced in homes throughout the country, "kaffee und kuchen".
The Germans are famous for their sweet tooth, and I had first noticed this on the boat when there was a special cupboard assigned to sweets to satisfy the Germans and the Swiss on-board!


On the table was a selection of enormous slices of different German cakes... apricot cheesecake, chocolate cake, plum cake and a forest berry and chocolate sponge variety.
It is routine for each person to eat an entire piece each, and not being a fan of cakes made this a difficult task for me!


With absolutely no appetite for food have just scoffed down the last of the cake we returned to the table to share dinner together. Nina couldn't keep the smile off her face as her favourite German dish was laid out in front of her, Moultasshen soup. I sat at the table rather lost in the German conversation that was unwinding in front of me, catching perhaps one in every hundred words.


The following day Nina and I were eager to try and walk off the extra kilos gained from the following evening, so we woke early and left the apartment. We followed a little path up alongside a number of farms, again filled with apple trees. We stopped at the top and took a big bite from one of the apples from the tree and were overcome with happiness at it's crunchy texture.


When we retuned to Omi's she had already prepared us a breakfast of fruit, muesli and tea. We went into the city later that morning to have a look around and buy a gift for Nina's great Aunty who was celebrating her 95th birthday.


That afternoon together with all of Nina's German relatives we went to a local restaurant for a second round of kaffee und kuchen for the birthday party. It was a very overwhelming experience as I sat in a room of about fifty Germans who couldn't speak a word of English. There was a lot of nodding and smiling on my behalf over the following few hours.


In the evening we had dinner at a restaurant with a panoramic view of the town and spent the final hours sharing some drinks at a local bar in the centre with Nina's cousin and her partner.


After a few slow days and the excitement to get to Berlin I was eager to get back on the road, so on Sunday morning we prepared ourselves for another day travelling on trains.

Switzerland

As the train silently wound along the tracks we were immediately able to judge when we had crossed into Swiss territory due to the picturesque scenery and wealth of apple trees dotted around the landscape.

It was a nice contrast when we arrived into the small Swiss city of Zurich after having had a busy week in the French capital. After dumping our luggage, we met up with Anna Marie who took us for a stroll along the edge of the lake and through the old section of the city. The natural beauty and Zurich's immaculate cleanliness were certainly the most dominant characteristics of the city. 

As we sat beside the lake and watched the many birds playing in the water I was also given my first taste of a traditional Swiss/German food, Bratwurst.

That evening we went for a walk further down the river to Zurich's famous baths. Every few hundred metres on the river shore a public bath is stationed where people enjoy a swim in the clear water that flows through the city. 

As it was nearing the end of summer the baths were filled with young people enjoying their last hours of freedom. On our walk back to the apartment we watched as the same people migrated from the water to the groovy row of bars overlooking the river for a celebratory drink and good laugh.
We spent the night enjoying the privacy of our own apartment which had been kindly provided to us by Suzanne, another of Hans' friends.

The following day we were invited by Anna Marie to accompany her for a Swiss breakfast of fruit, cheeses, bread and coffee. After our meal Anna Marie took us for a walk to the woods which inhabit the higher regions of Zurich and provide a fantastic viewpoint of the city and the mountains on the horizon. As I walked along the path I felt like I was entering into a film setting... the surrounding environment seemed truly surreal.

At 12pm we met Daniella and Tanja for brunch at a thriving little cafe in the old district of Zurich, the Maison Blunt Tea Room. As it was a Sunday the cafe had a great atmosphere and was packed with friends and families catching up over a delicious meal.
We each ordered a serve of scrambled eggs with tomato and onion, and shared the Oriental Platter which Tanja insisted we order! It had a mixture of things... Hummus, yoghurt and fruit, olives, dried fruit and more.
We then walked together along the side of the lake to the city's annual cultural festival which was celebrating its last day.
After wandering around the lake for an hour or so we returned to the apartment and went for another walk through the woods, hoping to catch a view of the sun setting behind the city.

Our final day in Zurich we spent navigating our way around the old quarter. Nina purchased her much awaited Swiss Army knife after which we went to check out a highly recommended vegetarian cafe - Tibits - where we enjoyed a buffet of delicious vegetarian delicacies. We went with the intention of looking and doing a bit of food research for Maria however we couldn't resist trying the mass of gourmet food on offer. Switzerland is by far the most expensive country we have visited, and we were shocked to discover that for our two plates of mixed salads, it cost us 48 Francs!

That evening we had another walk through the woods and then a quiet dinner together in the apartment.
The following day we caught the train to St Gallen, a fairytale-like city in the North of Switzerland.

Again we were able to stay with one of Hans' friends, Masi. The three days we spent in St Gallen were very relaxing and we were treated to some delicious home cooked meals and movie nights together. Masi also cooked for us the traditional German tart known as zwetske kuchen- a delicious (but not sickly sweet) plum-filled pastry.

During the day we went for a walk to the lakes which sit at the highest point of the city and are a popular place for swimmers, musicians and sportsmen alike.

One evening we made the short journey through the stunning countryside to the shore of Lake Bodensee (or Lake Constance). As we wound down our windows to get a clearer view of the farms the car filled with the beautiful aroma of apples due to the thousands of trees that lined the road.

As we sipped on our glass of the regions famous Apfelshorle beside the lake we enjoyed a great view of the German towns on the other side. Had the following day been sunny we would have taken the ferry across the lake to German territory as it would have made for a more exciting journey, but unfortunately we woke up to the sound of pouring rain.

Our three days in St Gallen meant our last few days in Switzerland. It was an enjoyable week spent in the company of interesting Swiss friends and in what has to be the cleanest place on the planet.

For the Love of Paris

We arrived in Paris at 9am on a sunny Sunday morning, and navigated our way across the city via the metro to our hostel in Montmartre. After a quick shower and some breakfast at the hostel we made our way into the city to the Notre Dame.

As it was a Sunday we were able to see a mass in procession, and it was a phenomenal experience. I think the most fascinating part of the church is in fact it's location, as it stands out almost on an island where the river forks and continues alonside it.

In the afternoon we had an exciting reunion with Angus who had just begun his Contiki tour around Europe. Together we reminisced on the joys of travelling as we climbed the hundreds of steps up the Eiffel Tower.

The view from the top is astounding, however as it is crowded with tourists I would put it second best to that of the view over the city from the top of the Arc du Triumphe.

That evening after leaving Angus with his tour we sat in the courtyard of the hostel where we met Freddy, who we ended up spending the remainder of the week with, and his friend Izzy. We were also introduced to Cameron whose typical Australian 'bogan' characteristics proved to be a constant source of entertainment for the evening.

Together with a few German girls, Pierre (a Parisian) and a few American girls, we all headed to the Sacre Coeur to see the lights of the city. We spent many hours drinking red wine on the steps of the Church before heading to some bars to finish the evening. Unlike it's neighbours (Italy and Spain), the nightlife in France finishes comparatively early, with the last bars open only until around 2am. It is strange coming also from South America (countries which have adapted Spanish tendencies) where 2am would be the hour we would leave to go out for the evening.

The following day the same group  of us went for a long walk to the Arc du Triumphe, with a lunch stop at one of the city's many parks. We spent a few hours playing cards and experimenting with each others camera before continuing on to the Arc. The €6 we payed to climb to the top was perhaps the best spent, as it is from the top that one is treated to a fantastic panoramic view of the city as well as the ideal viewpoint of the hectic traffic scenario below. It also is the perfect spot to observe the Champs Elysee, the most prestigious avenue in the city. Nina and I then split from the others to spend the afternoon walking down the Champs Elysee and then to the Marais district.

That evening our group had increased and our group of now fifteen people from different corners of the world decided to head into the city to view the lights of the Eiffel tower which flash every night on the hour, beginning at 10pm. Freddy, Izzy, Nina and I hired bikes and rode in to meet the others. It was thrilling to ride through the streets of Paris at night and observe the many people we passed on the way down. We found a free spot on the grass and cracked open a bottle of red wine to celebrate.

After a few hours in the park we rode home and watched as the city shutdown for the evening.

Having been in Paris only a few weeks earlier, it was not a surprise that mum and dad had a number of hints as to the best things to do and see (besides those obvious) in Paris. They had also generously offer to shout us a meal at a restaurant in which they had dined so we could experience some typical Parisian cuisine. We took the metro into the city and walked across the Pont des Artes where we eventually found the surprise that had been left for us by my family. We found the lock that wished us luck for the onward journey that was bolted to the bridge alongside thousands of others. We then made our way to Canal St Martin to the Hotel du Nord for lunch.

The feel of the restaurant was very French and pleasantly relaxed, and we sat down at a table in the little courtyard.

For lunch we had a very gourmet menu- goats cheese ravioli with rocket and Parmesan for entree, a steak with a delicious source and some amazing mashed potato for main course and a lemon tart for dessert, all washed down with a glass of French red wine. A few hours later we left the Hotel, both unable to wipe the smiles from our faces at the satisfaction of the experience. To top off the perfect day in Paris we looked through the shops alongside the canal and both found a few things to purchase. Before heading back to the hostel to meet Fred we sat on the edge of the canal and admired the incredible style of the Parisians.

For our third evening in Paris we met up with Fred and his host couch-surfer alongside the river Seine. We sat for a few hours just below the Notre Dame and listened to a band play a number of classic tunes. We were then taken by Mikhael to enjoy a crepe and then we headed to a gay club. It was an interesting night to say the least, with the male to female ratio about 50:1. We had a fun evening dancing together and watching Mikhael who was a hilarious dancer. On the way home we were entertained by his many catwalk impersonations, and he went on to tell me that in his opinion Paris is the only city in the world where one can catwalk down the streets without feeling out of place...and I tend to agree.

Early the following morning we took the metro to the Musee d'Orsay, and booked the English guided tour (after a recommendation from mum). For the next hour and a half we were led around the museum and were shown works by Monet, Manet and Van Gogh among many others. The architectural design of the museum is incredible as it was once a train station, and the colossal gold clock that sits on the wall is an original from many years ago. The tour was well worth it, and we were told many things about the artists' early life which can often be overlooked.

As a big contrast to the art exhibited in the Musee d'Orsay, in the afternoon we went to the Pompidou, a strikingly mondern edifice that was rightfully described as 'the worlds first inside out building' by LP. It has a number of tunnels running up the side of the building which give it a very futuristic aesthetic. We viewed a number of exhibitions inside the gallery, however none were overly spectacular and being an admirer of unusual architecture I thought the building itself was the most interesting part. 

That evening we had a quiet evening in the hostel with Freddy and a few others, and farewelled him as he headed back to Mikhael's house.

Thursday was Freddy's last day in Paris before heading South to do grape picking for a few weeks, so we decided to spend the day together. We met at the Louvre and after seeing the size of the line, we decided to wait until the afternoon when the crowd dies down to go inside.

Whilst waiting for Fred to arrive however we recognised two New Zealanders who we had spoken to on our flight to Santiago four months ago. For half an hour we caught up with their stories and likewise shared ours.

After farewelling Nat and Danny we went to the park to eat lunch and watch the people who walked past.  Freddy, who is studying music at university and is in a number of bands himself, played us some beautiful music as we sat under the shade of the tree. In the afternoon we went to the Louvre and saw the Mona Lisa behind her many layers of glass.

 I was surprised at the shear size of the Museum, having not realised in the beginning that it stretched throughout the buildings surrounding the palace. We took the metro back to the hostel after a few hours in the Louvre and got ready to go our again. We had an invitation to a jazz bar in the city where Freddy's new host was playing in a band that evening. We watched the band play for a few hours and talked among ourselves as it was our last night together. Unfortunately due to the metro curfew we had to say goodbye to Fred earlier than we'd have liked to, however we had plans to meet up again when I head to London.

In contrast to the weather we had had all week, Friday was freezing. We went back to see the Sacre Coeur by day, and then took the metro to the Sorbonne area to look around the University. From there we wandered around the streets in Marais and the Latin district and discovered an area filled with niche little designer shops. Unfortunately for my funds I was only able to admire, however surprisingly this proved to be enough.

Our final evening was an early one as we had a train booked to Zurich for early the following morning. We had dinner in the courtyard and had some laughs with Cameron and Mark, a gay tourguide from Alice Springs who had a great love of recalling horror stories from his many years as a tour guide.

Nina and I were both sad to leave Paris, and I can see myself wanting to live there in the future. It has a reputation for being a fantastic city rife with culture, art, fashion and good food and can sometimes be mistaken for a cliche' travel destination, however it has developed this name for good reason. It is certainly one of the most impressive cities I have visited, and I feel lucky to have experienced it.

The Med - The 'It' Destination for Europeans over Summer.

The cities and villages, the people, the accent, the food. Spending another three weeks in Italy has made me realise how much I have a real soft spot for this country and all it has to offer.

After an exciting business class flight due to an unexpected upgrade, we arrived in Rome at 2am on Saturday morning. As soon as we stepped off the plane we were hit by the hot European heat, a big contrast to the winter temperatures we had been experiencing for the past three months.

Summer in Roma was an incredible experience, and it had a very different feel to the last few times I had been in Italy when it was the middle of winter. Apart from the obvious increase in the number of tourists, the city also seems to be more alive. The setting of the sun doesn't occur until around 10pm, and and as a result the crowds remain in the city until late in the evening.

We had a busy three days exploring Roma including the obvious attractions like Il Colosseo, La Fontana di Trevi, La Basilica di San Pietro and others. We also spent many hours of the day wondering around getting lost in the little cobblestone streets that wind their way endlessly through the city.

On the third night in the city we arranged to catch up with Mel and Pat, which was exciting as it was the first familiar face we had seen. Together we spent hours sharing stories in the park before heading to [Travastere] in search of the infamous "chocolate shots" bar.

The rest of the evening we spent enojying a margherita pizza, a delicious hazelnut flavoured chocolate shop and a long walk back to our hostel on the other side of the city.

From Roma we travelled the short few hours North to the little village of Orvieto. Having visited Orvieto on my first trip to Italy, I remembered it as being a very beautiful village situated on the top of a mountain with an incredible view of the surrounding countryside. It was exactly as I had remembered, but even more beautiful at the height of summer as there was an incredible view of the acres of green fields below.

We spent our time in Orvieto staying with an Italian family who were a friend of Nina's in their gorgeous little home. It was a relaxing few days as we took the opportunity to relax and experience the true Italian way of life, and for me to enjoy speaking Italian.

From Orvieto we went to Firenze where we checked into a camping ground for three nights. We had arranged to meet up again with Mel and Pat for their final night in the city, and together we watched the sunset from our idyllic position on the top of the hill and then finished the evening in a restaurant where we all indulged in a big bowl of Italian pasta.

Like Roma, the following few days we wondered around Firenze, visited the famous leather markets and spent many hours people watching. While I enjoyed revisiting Firenze, it was a very hot few days and we were both relieved knowing in a few days we would have the opportunity to dive into the Mediterranean after a long three and a half months without the ocean.

Our trip along the West coast of Italy and the South of France aboard Paso Doble was spectacular to say the least. We visited a number of gorgeous little villages where we were able to observe the unique European summer culture without the masses of tourists.

The Mediterranean is unlike anywhere else I have ever seen during the summer period. The atmosphere both on the sea and on land is one of excitement as the holiday-makers enjoy the sunlight which lasts until late in the evening. The ocean is crowded with million dollar yachts and enormous speed boats, all of which accommodate wealthy families and their friends. Every evening the boats dock in some of the most prestigious marinas in the world (like Porto Venere and Monaco), giving their owners a chance to show off their prized possessions and for the people on land to likewise admire them.

 Over the two weeks we covered a fair distance, from Porto Ferraio to Porto Venere, (along the Cinque Terre), Sestri Levante, Genova, San Remo, Monaco ending our trip in Antibes. Each place had it's own attractions, but it was Porto Venere that I immediately fell in love with.

A small village that stretches along the edge of a cliff, this town has many attractive features. The cobblestone streets that wind their way up the hill are filled with fascinatingly tall houses that are each treated to the view of the bay below. On the highest point of the cliff face is a gorgeous little church decorated with black and white marble. It is not surprising that the church is in such a dominant position as this is the case in most Italian cities.  Also, it had an amazing jumping spot off the side of the cliff where one could swim alongside the soaring cliffs which form this part of the coastline. It is no wonder that Porto Venere was the long term retreat of the late Lord Byron, and it is certainly understandable how he was able to draw inspiration from the place.

The weeks on the boat also provided for Nina and I some time to relax and enjoy the summer sun after having a cold few winter months. As Maria was also on the boat with us, we were treated to some gourmet meals which came as a big treat! I commend her on her efforts as she was able to prepare some very deluxe meals in the small kitchen on board. We were also grateful for the delicious fresh produce we would often find in local markets as we went for our morning walks to explore each of the little towns before the rest of the people had begun their day.

One of the other amazing places we visited on the Italian coast was Portofino. I recognized the name as the place where my parents had spent their honeymoon all of those years ago. After anchoring in the bay we took the dinghy ashore to have a closer look at the little town. The main piazza was filled with restaurants selling Italian delicacies and the surrounding laneways were filled with designer boutiques to satisfy the demands of Portofino's wealthy visitors. After a slow passeggiata around the town it was obvious why mum and dad would have chosen such a place to spend their holiday. 

On the way back to the boat we admired the extensive gardens that spread the width of the cliffs, each filled with olive trees as well as some unusual species of plants.

Our stopover in Genova after a week on the boat gave us a chance to stock up on supplies as well as pick up our two new passengers for the following week. Daniella and Tanja, two Swiss women, boarded the boat armed with some much needed nespresso refils, and we began sailing toward San Remo.

To celebrate the departure of Maria, Alexandre, Nina and I we went out to dinner on arriving in Antibes. We found a nice outdoor eating area where we enjoyed our first French meal as well as some entertainment by a local group of young musicians.

The next morning Nina and I boarded the train to Nice, as Maria and Alexandre headed to Barcelona and Hans was left with Christian to continue sailing. It was a sad time as I watched the Triado family split and go their separate ways, their next full reunion not until July of next year.

Unfortunately our stay in Nice was cut short due to a number of issues, and we has only one day to see the city.

It was another scorching summer day and so we headed to the seaside, one of the iconic beaches on the famous Cote d'Azur. The European beach scene is much different to the one in Australia... Rocks replace sand, waves are nowhere to be seen and the number of people is multiplied by hundreds (in a much smaller space). 

We barely noticed as the hours passed and we realised we had been on the beach for many hours. Being much closer to one's fellow beach-goers also means that they can offer a great source of entertainment, especially the French and Italian crowds. Totally devoted to their image and tan, many barely touch the water and spend most of their time posing for photos on the shore.

This put an end to another stage of our journey, and we were excited to begin our backpacking across Europe.