For the Love of Paris

We arrived in Paris at 9am on a sunny Sunday morning, and navigated our way across the city via the metro to our hostel in Montmartre. After a quick shower and some breakfast at the hostel we made our way into the city to the Notre Dame.

As it was a Sunday we were able to see a mass in procession, and it was a phenomenal experience. I think the most fascinating part of the church is in fact it's location, as it stands out almost on an island where the river forks and continues alonside it.

In the afternoon we had an exciting reunion with Angus who had just begun his Contiki tour around Europe. Together we reminisced on the joys of travelling as we climbed the hundreds of steps up the Eiffel Tower.

The view from the top is astounding, however as it is crowded with tourists I would put it second best to that of the view over the city from the top of the Arc du Triumphe.

That evening after leaving Angus with his tour we sat in the courtyard of the hostel where we met Freddy, who we ended up spending the remainder of the week with, and his friend Izzy. We were also introduced to Cameron whose typical Australian 'bogan' characteristics proved to be a constant source of entertainment for the evening.

Together with a few German girls, Pierre (a Parisian) and a few American girls, we all headed to the Sacre Coeur to see the lights of the city. We spent many hours drinking red wine on the steps of the Church before heading to some bars to finish the evening. Unlike it's neighbours (Italy and Spain), the nightlife in France finishes comparatively early, with the last bars open only until around 2am. It is strange coming also from South America (countries which have adapted Spanish tendencies) where 2am would be the hour we would leave to go out for the evening.

The following day the same group  of us went for a long walk to the Arc du Triumphe, with a lunch stop at one of the city's many parks. We spent a few hours playing cards and experimenting with each others camera before continuing on to the Arc. The €6 we payed to climb to the top was perhaps the best spent, as it is from the top that one is treated to a fantastic panoramic view of the city as well as the ideal viewpoint of the hectic traffic scenario below. It also is the perfect spot to observe the Champs Elysee, the most prestigious avenue in the city. Nina and I then split from the others to spend the afternoon walking down the Champs Elysee and then to the Marais district.

That evening our group had increased and our group of now fifteen people from different corners of the world decided to head into the city to view the lights of the Eiffel tower which flash every night on the hour, beginning at 10pm. Freddy, Izzy, Nina and I hired bikes and rode in to meet the others. It was thrilling to ride through the streets of Paris at night and observe the many people we passed on the way down. We found a free spot on the grass and cracked open a bottle of red wine to celebrate.

After a few hours in the park we rode home and watched as the city shutdown for the evening.

Having been in Paris only a few weeks earlier, it was not a surprise that mum and dad had a number of hints as to the best things to do and see (besides those obvious) in Paris. They had also generously offer to shout us a meal at a restaurant in which they had dined so we could experience some typical Parisian cuisine. We took the metro into the city and walked across the Pont des Artes where we eventually found the surprise that had been left for us by my family. We found the lock that wished us luck for the onward journey that was bolted to the bridge alongside thousands of others. We then made our way to Canal St Martin to the Hotel du Nord for lunch.

The feel of the restaurant was very French and pleasantly relaxed, and we sat down at a table in the little courtyard.

For lunch we had a very gourmet menu- goats cheese ravioli with rocket and Parmesan for entree, a steak with a delicious source and some amazing mashed potato for main course and a lemon tart for dessert, all washed down with a glass of French red wine. A few hours later we left the Hotel, both unable to wipe the smiles from our faces at the satisfaction of the experience. To top off the perfect day in Paris we looked through the shops alongside the canal and both found a few things to purchase. Before heading back to the hostel to meet Fred we sat on the edge of the canal and admired the incredible style of the Parisians.

For our third evening in Paris we met up with Fred and his host couch-surfer alongside the river Seine. We sat for a few hours just below the Notre Dame and listened to a band play a number of classic tunes. We were then taken by Mikhael to enjoy a crepe and then we headed to a gay club. It was an interesting night to say the least, with the male to female ratio about 50:1. We had a fun evening dancing together and watching Mikhael who was a hilarious dancer. On the way home we were entertained by his many catwalk impersonations, and he went on to tell me that in his opinion Paris is the only city in the world where one can catwalk down the streets without feeling out of place...and I tend to agree.

Early the following morning we took the metro to the Musee d'Orsay, and booked the English guided tour (after a recommendation from mum). For the next hour and a half we were led around the museum and were shown works by Monet, Manet and Van Gogh among many others. The architectural design of the museum is incredible as it was once a train station, and the colossal gold clock that sits on the wall is an original from many years ago. The tour was well worth it, and we were told many things about the artists' early life which can often be overlooked.

As a big contrast to the art exhibited in the Musee d'Orsay, in the afternoon we went to the Pompidou, a strikingly mondern edifice that was rightfully described as 'the worlds first inside out building' by LP. It has a number of tunnels running up the side of the building which give it a very futuristic aesthetic. We viewed a number of exhibitions inside the gallery, however none were overly spectacular and being an admirer of unusual architecture I thought the building itself was the most interesting part. 

That evening we had a quiet evening in the hostel with Freddy and a few others, and farewelled him as he headed back to Mikhael's house.

Thursday was Freddy's last day in Paris before heading South to do grape picking for a few weeks, so we decided to spend the day together. We met at the Louvre and after seeing the size of the line, we decided to wait until the afternoon when the crowd dies down to go inside.

Whilst waiting for Fred to arrive however we recognised two New Zealanders who we had spoken to on our flight to Santiago four months ago. For half an hour we caught up with their stories and likewise shared ours.

After farewelling Nat and Danny we went to the park to eat lunch and watch the people who walked past.  Freddy, who is studying music at university and is in a number of bands himself, played us some beautiful music as we sat under the shade of the tree. In the afternoon we went to the Louvre and saw the Mona Lisa behind her many layers of glass.

 I was surprised at the shear size of the Museum, having not realised in the beginning that it stretched throughout the buildings surrounding the palace. We took the metro back to the hostel after a few hours in the Louvre and got ready to go our again. We had an invitation to a jazz bar in the city where Freddy's new host was playing in a band that evening. We watched the band play for a few hours and talked among ourselves as it was our last night together. Unfortunately due to the metro curfew we had to say goodbye to Fred earlier than we'd have liked to, however we had plans to meet up again when I head to London.

In contrast to the weather we had had all week, Friday was freezing. We went back to see the Sacre Coeur by day, and then took the metro to the Sorbonne area to look around the University. From there we wandered around the streets in Marais and the Latin district and discovered an area filled with niche little designer shops. Unfortunately for my funds I was only able to admire, however surprisingly this proved to be enough.

Our final evening was an early one as we had a train booked to Zurich for early the following morning. We had dinner in the courtyard and had some laughs with Cameron and Mark, a gay tourguide from Alice Springs who had a great love of recalling horror stories from his many years as a tour guide.

Nina and I were both sad to leave Paris, and I can see myself wanting to live there in the future. It has a reputation for being a fantastic city rife with culture, art, fashion and good food and can sometimes be mistaken for a cliche' travel destination, however it has developed this name for good reason. It is certainly one of the most impressive cities I have visited, and I feel lucky to have experienced it.

The Med - The 'It' Destination for Europeans over Summer.

The cities and villages, the people, the accent, the food. Spending another three weeks in Italy has made me realise how much I have a real soft spot for this country and all it has to offer.

After an exciting business class flight due to an unexpected upgrade, we arrived in Rome at 2am on Saturday morning. As soon as we stepped off the plane we were hit by the hot European heat, a big contrast to the winter temperatures we had been experiencing for the past three months.

Summer in Roma was an incredible experience, and it had a very different feel to the last few times I had been in Italy when it was the middle of winter. Apart from the obvious increase in the number of tourists, the city also seems to be more alive. The setting of the sun doesn't occur until around 10pm, and and as a result the crowds remain in the city until late in the evening.

We had a busy three days exploring Roma including the obvious attractions like Il Colosseo, La Fontana di Trevi, La Basilica di San Pietro and others. We also spent many hours of the day wondering around getting lost in the little cobblestone streets that wind their way endlessly through the city.

On the third night in the city we arranged to catch up with Mel and Pat, which was exciting as it was the first familiar face we had seen. Together we spent hours sharing stories in the park before heading to [Travastere] in search of the infamous "chocolate shots" bar.

The rest of the evening we spent enojying a margherita pizza, a delicious hazelnut flavoured chocolate shop and a long walk back to our hostel on the other side of the city.

From Roma we travelled the short few hours North to the little village of Orvieto. Having visited Orvieto on my first trip to Italy, I remembered it as being a very beautiful village situated on the top of a mountain with an incredible view of the surrounding countryside. It was exactly as I had remembered, but even more beautiful at the height of summer as there was an incredible view of the acres of green fields below.

We spent our time in Orvieto staying with an Italian family who were a friend of Nina's in their gorgeous little home. It was a relaxing few days as we took the opportunity to relax and experience the true Italian way of life, and for me to enjoy speaking Italian.

From Orvieto we went to Firenze where we checked into a camping ground for three nights. We had arranged to meet up again with Mel and Pat for their final night in the city, and together we watched the sunset from our idyllic position on the top of the hill and then finished the evening in a restaurant where we all indulged in a big bowl of Italian pasta.

Like Roma, the following few days we wondered around Firenze, visited the famous leather markets and spent many hours people watching. While I enjoyed revisiting Firenze, it was a very hot few days and we were both relieved knowing in a few days we would have the opportunity to dive into the Mediterranean after a long three and a half months without the ocean.

Our trip along the West coast of Italy and the South of France aboard Paso Doble was spectacular to say the least. We visited a number of gorgeous little villages where we were able to observe the unique European summer culture without the masses of tourists.

The Mediterranean is unlike anywhere else I have ever seen during the summer period. The atmosphere both on the sea and on land is one of excitement as the holiday-makers enjoy the sunlight which lasts until late in the evening. The ocean is crowded with million dollar yachts and enormous speed boats, all of which accommodate wealthy families and their friends. Every evening the boats dock in some of the most prestigious marinas in the world (like Porto Venere and Monaco), giving their owners a chance to show off their prized possessions and for the people on land to likewise admire them.

 Over the two weeks we covered a fair distance, from Porto Ferraio to Porto Venere, (along the Cinque Terre), Sestri Levante, Genova, San Remo, Monaco ending our trip in Antibes. Each place had it's own attractions, but it was Porto Venere that I immediately fell in love with.

A small village that stretches along the edge of a cliff, this town has many attractive features. The cobblestone streets that wind their way up the hill are filled with fascinatingly tall houses that are each treated to the view of the bay below. On the highest point of the cliff face is a gorgeous little church decorated with black and white marble. It is not surprising that the church is in such a dominant position as this is the case in most Italian cities.  Also, it had an amazing jumping spot off the side of the cliff where one could swim alongside the soaring cliffs which form this part of the coastline. It is no wonder that Porto Venere was the long term retreat of the late Lord Byron, and it is certainly understandable how he was able to draw inspiration from the place.

The weeks on the boat also provided for Nina and I some time to relax and enjoy the summer sun after having a cold few winter months. As Maria was also on the boat with us, we were treated to some gourmet meals which came as a big treat! I commend her on her efforts as she was able to prepare some very deluxe meals in the small kitchen on board. We were also grateful for the delicious fresh produce we would often find in local markets as we went for our morning walks to explore each of the little towns before the rest of the people had begun their day.

One of the other amazing places we visited on the Italian coast was Portofino. I recognized the name as the place where my parents had spent their honeymoon all of those years ago. After anchoring in the bay we took the dinghy ashore to have a closer look at the little town. The main piazza was filled with restaurants selling Italian delicacies and the surrounding laneways were filled with designer boutiques to satisfy the demands of Portofino's wealthy visitors. After a slow passeggiata around the town it was obvious why mum and dad would have chosen such a place to spend their holiday. 

On the way back to the boat we admired the extensive gardens that spread the width of the cliffs, each filled with olive trees as well as some unusual species of plants.

Our stopover in Genova after a week on the boat gave us a chance to stock up on supplies as well as pick up our two new passengers for the following week. Daniella and Tanja, two Swiss women, boarded the boat armed with some much needed nespresso refils, and we began sailing toward San Remo.

To celebrate the departure of Maria, Alexandre, Nina and I we went out to dinner on arriving in Antibes. We found a nice outdoor eating area where we enjoyed our first French meal as well as some entertainment by a local group of young musicians.

The next morning Nina and I boarded the train to Nice, as Maria and Alexandre headed to Barcelona and Hans was left with Christian to continue sailing. It was a sad time as I watched the Triado family split and go their separate ways, their next full reunion not until July of next year.

Unfortunately our stay in Nice was cut short due to a number of issues, and we has only one day to see the city.

It was another scorching summer day and so we headed to the seaside, one of the iconic beaches on the famous Cote d'Azur. The European beach scene is much different to the one in Australia... Rocks replace sand, waves are nowhere to be seen and the number of people is multiplied by hundreds (in a much smaller space). 

We barely noticed as the hours passed and we realised we had been on the beach for many hours. Being much closer to one's fellow beach-goers also means that they can offer a great source of entertainment, especially the French and Italian crowds. Totally devoted to their image and tan, many barely touch the water and spend most of their time posing for photos on the shore.

This put an end to another stage of our journey, and we were excited to begin our backpacking across Europe.