It was midday on a prolonged Easter Sunday when we stumbled up the steps of the Bellavista hostel in a somewhat dream-like state.
We were pleasantly surprised by its overwhelmingly relaxed atmosphere (when we arrived the receptionist was asleep on the couch with the music blaring) and convenient position…right in the heart of the bustling, tourist-friendly barrio Bellavista.
We were pleasantly surprised by its overwhelmingly relaxed atmosphere (when we arrived the receptionist was asleep on the couch with the music blaring) and convenient position…right in the heart of the bustling, tourist-friendly barrio Bellavista.
Our first afternoon was spent exploring the bordering neighbourhoods and ultimately getting our bearings. We sat for hours in the little ‘Patio Bellavista’, a uniquely modern cafe-and-restaurant hotspot (it reminded me of James Street market in Brisbane) with a wide selection of different cuisines to offer.
After returning to the hostel at sunset we learned of the stark similarities between Santiago and the typical European way of life…the best experiences come in the later hours of the night when the city really comes to life. The Chilean people of all ages come out at night and fill the bars and restaurants until the early hours of the morning when in Australia much of the population is asleep.
We decided the walking tour of Santiago would be the best activity for our second day in the city of six million people. It began at 3 in the afternoon so the morning was spent climbing the San Cristobal hill which stands tall in the middle of the city. It is a tiring hour hike in the sweltering sun, however the spectacular view makes up for all of the lost energy along the way. The city is hidden under a thick layer of smog which we we are later told is like ‘smoking three cigarettes a day..without actually smoking them’!
After we descended the hill it was our first chance to try out the public transport, or more specifically, the metro, which took us to the starting point of the tour. Having Nina (a fluent Spanish speaker) as my travel partner makes everything much easier, but also results in laziness on my behalf. The Spanish lessons in Bolivia will certainly put and end to these circumstances I hope!
Having received an enthusiastic recommendation from an experienced traveller, Nina and I decided the free walking tour would be the perfect introduction to the city. We rightly decided it would then give us a better idea as to the best places to visit in Santiago for the remainder of the week.
Over the next four hours we were exposed to some of the most interesting sites of the city, with (in my opinion) the most impressive feature being the groovy architecture that popped up in the most unusual of places around the city. Felipe`, our knowledgable guide, also filled the gaps of the tour with some interesting history of the city, and it was this aspect of his that gripped my attention…being a history lover and all.
That night passed much the same as the first, the jet lag resulting in a fairly early night (midnight) for the two of us.
Tuesday we rose early and met with a Chilean cousin of Nina’s, Romina, who promised to take us to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar. These are two seaside villages which are filled with colourful houses all tightly packed onto the looming hills. Valparaiso is characterised by a large percentage of poorer families, and this is evident when the bus winds up the hill and exposes the harsh living conditions of much of the area. At the top of Valparaiso is one of the three well-known houses of Pablo Neruda, the famous Chilean poet. It is a great five stories high with a fantastic view overlooking the bay and the large port which is evidently an important exporting facility.
Vina del Mar is the neighbouring bay and is a short ten minute bus ride from Valparaiso. The difference between the two villages is most obvious as the bus rounds the last corner and the Sheraton hotel is positioned right on the water’s edge. As the bus continued to wind around the point it was clear that this was both the more commercial and wealthy bay. After a quick cafe` we were keen to return to Santiago as the sun was nowhere to be seen and the temperature was freezing as a result.
We spent the evening in the kitchen of the hostel whipping up a delicious vegetable pasta with the fresh produce we sought out at Vina del Mar. Being both vegetable and fruit obsessed individuals we were pleasantly surprised by their quality and our creation as a result!
Tomorrow we hope to explore some of the more cultural sites around the city. As for now, it is time to make a cup of tea!
