An Historian's Dreamland.

I am grateful to Germany for having such an interesting history, as it was perhaps the single thing that kept me sane in between the thousands of Maths equations and English essays.


As one of the four topics for modern history our class studied Germany from 1918 to 1939 which was perhaps the most crucial time in the country's history after the horrific First World War and during the rise of the Nazi party amongst other notable events. For this reason I was eager to get to the capital to see in the flesh the sites I had spent so long studying about. The high expectations I had of Berlin were not exaggerated, and somehow the city managed to exceed them.


The first two nights we stayed a fair way from the centre of the city near Treptower park. We arrived late on a Sunday and as everything was closed we were forced to dine amongst some strange types in a local pub. The food was very basic, and so we made it a very quick dinner and returned to our apartment.


As much of the city is closed on Monday, we decided to walk to the longest remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall at the Eastside Gallery. As it began to pour on our way through the streets of the rather cool Kreuzberg, we stopped for an Apfelshorle in a great little cafe called Die FABRIK. It was a groovy joint filled with the appropriate people and had a very friendly waitress.


As the rain began to soften we made our way to the wall and took numerous photos of the graffiti that stretched the entire 1.3km. We also stopped and wrote our names where many others had done the same to mark our visit to the wall, in my case in the hope of returning soon to see it again.


We then made our way over to Checkpoint Charlie, the landmark that stands in the middle of the city and signals a very significant historical era as it was the busiest crossover point during the time when the wall divided the city.


We visited the museum and spent hours reading the very interesting attempted escapes of many Germans whose lives had been harshly disrupted after the construction of the wall.


As the sun had set for the day we returned home and cooked a quick meal before getting in to bed to read our books as the rain continued to fall outside.


Tuesday morning we moved into St Christopher's hostel in Rosa-Luxemburg Platz in the heart of the Mitte district, what immediately became my favourite area of the city.


The Mitte district is the cultural heart of Berlin- the streets are filled with thousands of galleries exhibiting the works of up and coming artists, there are groovy cafes on every corner and amongst all of this there is some of the best shopping I have ever experienced. In other words, I was in my very own heaven.


We filled the day very easily wondering around these streets soaking up the sun as well as the thriving atmosphere of Mitte. We found a great burrito/soup/salad bar 'Dolores' which became our little hangout for the rest of the week for it's amazing quality and backpacker prices.


We visited a great store of a local Berlin fashion designer named Esther Perbandt. After admiring all of her work, Nina purchased a fabulous black suede coat for a great price.


We arrived back at the hostel late that evening and made the most of happy hour sitting in the bar enjoying a few drinks. We were both happy as there were televisions around the room broadcasting various sports including the Rugby World Cup and more surprisingly, AFL.


We met two British guys, Will and John, who later introduced us to their other friends and who we joined on an expedition to a gay bar on the other side of the city. Had we known Tuesdays were the quietest nights in Berlin we probably wouldn't have bothered, as the bar was empty and the neighbourhood dead quiet. It was nice though to spend the evening in some new company.


Throughout much of North-Eastern a number of the concentration and labour camps used in the war still stand and are open to visit for tourists. We decided the following day to make the 90 minute journey to Sachsenhausen, one of the most important camps in Germany, with two other Australian girls, Penny and Ardy.


Sachsenhausen was a significant camp in Germany as it was one of the first built and was therefore used as a mould for other camps in the future. It was also important as, towards the end of the war when the Soviets where marching into Germany, many people from the camps were moved there and many stayed even after the end of the war.


It was certainly a moving experience, and much of the information we were told on our tour was hard to comprehend.


As Sachsenhausen was built in (1933), it was originally a place for the Nazis to send their political opposition- the communists. Therefore it is actually classified as a labour camp rather than a concentration camp as the people were forced into working.
As the years went by it continued to be filled with anyone who was considered opposition to the Nazis but it wasn't until about (1939) that the Jewish people started arriving.


We were given an insightful explanation about every element of the camp, and were told many figures about the number of fatalities in the camp, the most devastating being that of the 200,000 that resided there over the years, only about 38,000 survived.


We were invited by Penny and Ardy to join them for dinner at a nice restaurant they had discovered the previous evening. We had a great evening at 'Good Morning Vietnam' where we each enjoyed a traditional Vietnamese curry and I rejoiced in the fact that it had a bit of spice to it.
After dinner we returned to the hostel and sat down in the bar for some more drinks with the many other hostel guests.


On Thursday morning the rain had unfortunately returned along with the unexpected freezing temperatures and so we went to the Jewish Museum. Architecturally the building is fascinating, and the inside of the building is almost like a maze as one follows the different exhibitions around the room.


After the museum we went back to the hostel to meet Ardy who wasn't feeling well, and then ate lunch at Dolores. In the afternoon Nina and I were eager to explore the other side of Mitte which we hadn't seen yet and so we left the others and went for a wander. We found a nice little cafe called the barn where we sat down for a coffee, only to discover the entire staff were had Australian accents and were communicating in English. It did not come as a surprise as the entire four months we'd been travelling so far we'd met more Australians than any other nationality.


Whilst wandering around Mitte we stopped at every second window to admire the clothes and shoes on display, and resisted buying anything except a cardigan which I greatly needed as we were beginning to feel the cool Autumn Weather which would only get cooler for the rest of our days in Europe.


The next day the clouds and light rain that was falling outside reflected Nina's state as she felt unwell from the previous day.


I spent the morning enjoying the cold in my wool coat and spent hours walking and listening to my iPod. As the rain got heavier I stopped in at a little art gallery and had a look around and then had a coffee. For an hour or so I sat writing my blog and enjoying the time by myself. On the way back to the hostel I bought a cool necklace which I found in a great little shop in AuguststraBe.


In the afternoon Nina's state hadn't improved and neither had the weather so I caught the train over to Kreuzberg to further explore the district. I revisited Die FABRIK and to my surprise was recognised by the waitress who helped me translate the menu to find something to order.


We had another delicious dinner of papaya noodle salad and rice paper rolls at Good Morning Vietnam.


On Saturday we both eagerly made our way to the old Templehof airport for the Berlin Music Festival. We had a wander through the art display and had a quick curry for lunch before the acts started. Over the course of the evening we saw some fantastic live music including The Naked & Famous, Beirut, Boyz Noise, The Bloody Betroots, Tune-yards and Mogwai.


The next day we followed our tradition of seeking out the city's walking tour and made our way to the Brandenburg gate to meet the guide.


Our guide Tom from England was incredible! His knowledge of 800 years of German history and his ability to remember every name and date was impressive. It was slightly depressing though as his wealth of knowledge made me feel as if I knew nothing in comparison, although it did make me eager to continue studying German history in more depth.


On the tour we went to the many historical monuments including the Reichstag, the Memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe, the site of Hitler's bunker, the remnants of the Berlin wall and the old Nazi Airforce building. We also spent a while in Paris square where we saw the famous Adlon Hotel and the American and French embassies. We noticed the American flag was flying half-mast and remembered it was the tenth anniversary of the Twin Towers attacks. Tom also told us that for the suite in the Adlon hotel it is only €15,000 per night with which one gets a personal butler and limousine.


We had to leave the walking tour early as Nina and I had an appointment at the Reichstag of which we had to be prompt.
We went up into the top dome of the Reichstag and had a great view over the city and it's many sites.


A few hours later as we watched the sky turn a freaky black we went back to the Museum at the Memorial to the Jews. If anyone has seen the Memorial they will understand that walking through there as the lightning and thunder continued above us would understand that it was a very eerie and rather creepy experience. The Museum was well worth the visit as it tells the story of individuals and families that were victims of the holocausts and therefore tries to put identities to the figures of which we sometimes throw around too loosely.


We celebrated our final night in Berlin with a delicious burrito at Dolores and both regretted the fact that we were leaving in the morning.


On our way to Koln I realised how much I loved Berlin, and I can see it as a city in which I would definitely want to live. Away from the touristy sites (such as in Mitte and Kreuzberg) I find it a very relaxing but at the same time very 'happening' place, and I could easily picture myself joining the thousands of others on bikes on their way to work each day.

Esslingen

We were now heading into the country I was most excited to explore for it's wealth of history and culture.


Our first stop in Deutschland was in the small town of Esslingen where we spent a quick two nights visiting Nina's lovely and very charismatic grandma, Omi.


We were given an enthusiastic welcome to her home as she waved us in from her fifth floor balcony. When I stepped in the door her warmth and eagerness to provide us with a comfortable hospitality was prevalent, as was her desire to practise her few English phrases.


Literally seconds after arriving at the apartment I was introduced to one of the many German traditions that is practiced in homes throughout the country, "kaffee und kuchen".
The Germans are famous for their sweet tooth, and I had first noticed this on the boat when there was a special cupboard assigned to sweets to satisfy the Germans and the Swiss on-board!


On the table was a selection of enormous slices of different German cakes... apricot cheesecake, chocolate cake, plum cake and a forest berry and chocolate sponge variety.
It is routine for each person to eat an entire piece each, and not being a fan of cakes made this a difficult task for me!


With absolutely no appetite for food have just scoffed down the last of the cake we returned to the table to share dinner together. Nina couldn't keep the smile off her face as her favourite German dish was laid out in front of her, Moultasshen soup. I sat at the table rather lost in the German conversation that was unwinding in front of me, catching perhaps one in every hundred words.


The following day Nina and I were eager to try and walk off the extra kilos gained from the following evening, so we woke early and left the apartment. We followed a little path up alongside a number of farms, again filled with apple trees. We stopped at the top and took a big bite from one of the apples from the tree and were overcome with happiness at it's crunchy texture.


When we retuned to Omi's she had already prepared us a breakfast of fruit, muesli and tea. We went into the city later that morning to have a look around and buy a gift for Nina's great Aunty who was celebrating her 95th birthday.


That afternoon together with all of Nina's German relatives we went to a local restaurant for a second round of kaffee und kuchen for the birthday party. It was a very overwhelming experience as I sat in a room of about fifty Germans who couldn't speak a word of English. There was a lot of nodding and smiling on my behalf over the following few hours.


In the evening we had dinner at a restaurant with a panoramic view of the town and spent the final hours sharing some drinks at a local bar in the centre with Nina's cousin and her partner.


After a few slow days and the excitement to get to Berlin I was eager to get back on the road, so on Sunday morning we prepared ourselves for another day travelling on trains.

Switzerland

As the train silently wound along the tracks we were immediately able to judge when we had crossed into Swiss territory due to the picturesque scenery and wealth of apple trees dotted around the landscape.

It was a nice contrast when we arrived into the small Swiss city of Zurich after having had a busy week in the French capital. After dumping our luggage, we met up with Anna Marie who took us for a stroll along the edge of the lake and through the old section of the city. The natural beauty and Zurich's immaculate cleanliness were certainly the most dominant characteristics of the city. 

As we sat beside the lake and watched the many birds playing in the water I was also given my first taste of a traditional Swiss/German food, Bratwurst.

That evening we went for a walk further down the river to Zurich's famous baths. Every few hundred metres on the river shore a public bath is stationed where people enjoy a swim in the clear water that flows through the city. 

As it was nearing the end of summer the baths were filled with young people enjoying their last hours of freedom. On our walk back to the apartment we watched as the same people migrated from the water to the groovy row of bars overlooking the river for a celebratory drink and good laugh.
We spent the night enjoying the privacy of our own apartment which had been kindly provided to us by Suzanne, another of Hans' friends.

The following day we were invited by Anna Marie to accompany her for a Swiss breakfast of fruit, cheeses, bread and coffee. After our meal Anna Marie took us for a walk to the woods which inhabit the higher regions of Zurich and provide a fantastic viewpoint of the city and the mountains on the horizon. As I walked along the path I felt like I was entering into a film setting... the surrounding environment seemed truly surreal.

At 12pm we met Daniella and Tanja for brunch at a thriving little cafe in the old district of Zurich, the Maison Blunt Tea Room. As it was a Sunday the cafe had a great atmosphere and was packed with friends and families catching up over a delicious meal.
We each ordered a serve of scrambled eggs with tomato and onion, and shared the Oriental Platter which Tanja insisted we order! It had a mixture of things... Hummus, yoghurt and fruit, olives, dried fruit and more.
We then walked together along the side of the lake to the city's annual cultural festival which was celebrating its last day.
After wandering around the lake for an hour or so we returned to the apartment and went for another walk through the woods, hoping to catch a view of the sun setting behind the city.

Our final day in Zurich we spent navigating our way around the old quarter. Nina purchased her much awaited Swiss Army knife after which we went to check out a highly recommended vegetarian cafe - Tibits - where we enjoyed a buffet of delicious vegetarian delicacies. We went with the intention of looking and doing a bit of food research for Maria however we couldn't resist trying the mass of gourmet food on offer. Switzerland is by far the most expensive country we have visited, and we were shocked to discover that for our two plates of mixed salads, it cost us 48 Francs!

That evening we had another walk through the woods and then a quiet dinner together in the apartment.
The following day we caught the train to St Gallen, a fairytale-like city in the North of Switzerland.

Again we were able to stay with one of Hans' friends, Masi. The three days we spent in St Gallen were very relaxing and we were treated to some delicious home cooked meals and movie nights together. Masi also cooked for us the traditional German tart known as zwetske kuchen- a delicious (but not sickly sweet) plum-filled pastry.

During the day we went for a walk to the lakes which sit at the highest point of the city and are a popular place for swimmers, musicians and sportsmen alike.

One evening we made the short journey through the stunning countryside to the shore of Lake Bodensee (or Lake Constance). As we wound down our windows to get a clearer view of the farms the car filled with the beautiful aroma of apples due to the thousands of trees that lined the road.

As we sipped on our glass of the regions famous Apfelshorle beside the lake we enjoyed a great view of the German towns on the other side. Had the following day been sunny we would have taken the ferry across the lake to German territory as it would have made for a more exciting journey, but unfortunately we woke up to the sound of pouring rain.

Our three days in St Gallen meant our last few days in Switzerland. It was an enjoyable week spent in the company of interesting Swiss friends and in what has to be the cleanest place on the planet.

For the Love of Paris

We arrived in Paris at 9am on a sunny Sunday morning, and navigated our way across the city via the metro to our hostel in Montmartre. After a quick shower and some breakfast at the hostel we made our way into the city to the Notre Dame.

As it was a Sunday we were able to see a mass in procession, and it was a phenomenal experience. I think the most fascinating part of the church is in fact it's location, as it stands out almost on an island where the river forks and continues alonside it.

In the afternoon we had an exciting reunion with Angus who had just begun his Contiki tour around Europe. Together we reminisced on the joys of travelling as we climbed the hundreds of steps up the Eiffel Tower.

The view from the top is astounding, however as it is crowded with tourists I would put it second best to that of the view over the city from the top of the Arc du Triumphe.

That evening after leaving Angus with his tour we sat in the courtyard of the hostel where we met Freddy, who we ended up spending the remainder of the week with, and his friend Izzy. We were also introduced to Cameron whose typical Australian 'bogan' characteristics proved to be a constant source of entertainment for the evening.

Together with a few German girls, Pierre (a Parisian) and a few American girls, we all headed to the Sacre Coeur to see the lights of the city. We spent many hours drinking red wine on the steps of the Church before heading to some bars to finish the evening. Unlike it's neighbours (Italy and Spain), the nightlife in France finishes comparatively early, with the last bars open only until around 2am. It is strange coming also from South America (countries which have adapted Spanish tendencies) where 2am would be the hour we would leave to go out for the evening.

The following day the same group  of us went for a long walk to the Arc du Triumphe, with a lunch stop at one of the city's many parks. We spent a few hours playing cards and experimenting with each others camera before continuing on to the Arc. The €6 we payed to climb to the top was perhaps the best spent, as it is from the top that one is treated to a fantastic panoramic view of the city as well as the ideal viewpoint of the hectic traffic scenario below. It also is the perfect spot to observe the Champs Elysee, the most prestigious avenue in the city. Nina and I then split from the others to spend the afternoon walking down the Champs Elysee and then to the Marais district.

That evening our group had increased and our group of now fifteen people from different corners of the world decided to head into the city to view the lights of the Eiffel tower which flash every night on the hour, beginning at 10pm. Freddy, Izzy, Nina and I hired bikes and rode in to meet the others. It was thrilling to ride through the streets of Paris at night and observe the many people we passed on the way down. We found a free spot on the grass and cracked open a bottle of red wine to celebrate.

After a few hours in the park we rode home and watched as the city shutdown for the evening.

Having been in Paris only a few weeks earlier, it was not a surprise that mum and dad had a number of hints as to the best things to do and see (besides those obvious) in Paris. They had also generously offer to shout us a meal at a restaurant in which they had dined so we could experience some typical Parisian cuisine. We took the metro into the city and walked across the Pont des Artes where we eventually found the surprise that had been left for us by my family. We found the lock that wished us luck for the onward journey that was bolted to the bridge alongside thousands of others. We then made our way to Canal St Martin to the Hotel du Nord for lunch.

The feel of the restaurant was very French and pleasantly relaxed, and we sat down at a table in the little courtyard.

For lunch we had a very gourmet menu- goats cheese ravioli with rocket and Parmesan for entree, a steak with a delicious source and some amazing mashed potato for main course and a lemon tart for dessert, all washed down with a glass of French red wine. A few hours later we left the Hotel, both unable to wipe the smiles from our faces at the satisfaction of the experience. To top off the perfect day in Paris we looked through the shops alongside the canal and both found a few things to purchase. Before heading back to the hostel to meet Fred we sat on the edge of the canal and admired the incredible style of the Parisians.

For our third evening in Paris we met up with Fred and his host couch-surfer alongside the river Seine. We sat for a few hours just below the Notre Dame and listened to a band play a number of classic tunes. We were then taken by Mikhael to enjoy a crepe and then we headed to a gay club. It was an interesting night to say the least, with the male to female ratio about 50:1. We had a fun evening dancing together and watching Mikhael who was a hilarious dancer. On the way home we were entertained by his many catwalk impersonations, and he went on to tell me that in his opinion Paris is the only city in the world where one can catwalk down the streets without feeling out of place...and I tend to agree.

Early the following morning we took the metro to the Musee d'Orsay, and booked the English guided tour (after a recommendation from mum). For the next hour and a half we were led around the museum and were shown works by Monet, Manet and Van Gogh among many others. The architectural design of the museum is incredible as it was once a train station, and the colossal gold clock that sits on the wall is an original from many years ago. The tour was well worth it, and we were told many things about the artists' early life which can often be overlooked.

As a big contrast to the art exhibited in the Musee d'Orsay, in the afternoon we went to the Pompidou, a strikingly mondern edifice that was rightfully described as 'the worlds first inside out building' by LP. It has a number of tunnels running up the side of the building which give it a very futuristic aesthetic. We viewed a number of exhibitions inside the gallery, however none were overly spectacular and being an admirer of unusual architecture I thought the building itself was the most interesting part. 

That evening we had a quiet evening in the hostel with Freddy and a few others, and farewelled him as he headed back to Mikhael's house.

Thursday was Freddy's last day in Paris before heading South to do grape picking for a few weeks, so we decided to spend the day together. We met at the Louvre and after seeing the size of the line, we decided to wait until the afternoon when the crowd dies down to go inside.

Whilst waiting for Fred to arrive however we recognised two New Zealanders who we had spoken to on our flight to Santiago four months ago. For half an hour we caught up with their stories and likewise shared ours.

After farewelling Nat and Danny we went to the park to eat lunch and watch the people who walked past.  Freddy, who is studying music at university and is in a number of bands himself, played us some beautiful music as we sat under the shade of the tree. In the afternoon we went to the Louvre and saw the Mona Lisa behind her many layers of glass.

 I was surprised at the shear size of the Museum, having not realised in the beginning that it stretched throughout the buildings surrounding the palace. We took the metro back to the hostel after a few hours in the Louvre and got ready to go our again. We had an invitation to a jazz bar in the city where Freddy's new host was playing in a band that evening. We watched the band play for a few hours and talked among ourselves as it was our last night together. Unfortunately due to the metro curfew we had to say goodbye to Fred earlier than we'd have liked to, however we had plans to meet up again when I head to London.

In contrast to the weather we had had all week, Friday was freezing. We went back to see the Sacre Coeur by day, and then took the metro to the Sorbonne area to look around the University. From there we wandered around the streets in Marais and the Latin district and discovered an area filled with niche little designer shops. Unfortunately for my funds I was only able to admire, however surprisingly this proved to be enough.

Our final evening was an early one as we had a train booked to Zurich for early the following morning. We had dinner in the courtyard and had some laughs with Cameron and Mark, a gay tourguide from Alice Springs who had a great love of recalling horror stories from his many years as a tour guide.

Nina and I were both sad to leave Paris, and I can see myself wanting to live there in the future. It has a reputation for being a fantastic city rife with culture, art, fashion and good food and can sometimes be mistaken for a cliche' travel destination, however it has developed this name for good reason. It is certainly one of the most impressive cities I have visited, and I feel lucky to have experienced it.

The Med - The 'It' Destination for Europeans over Summer.

The cities and villages, the people, the accent, the food. Spending another three weeks in Italy has made me realise how much I have a real soft spot for this country and all it has to offer.

After an exciting business class flight due to an unexpected upgrade, we arrived in Rome at 2am on Saturday morning. As soon as we stepped off the plane we were hit by the hot European heat, a big contrast to the winter temperatures we had been experiencing for the past three months.

Summer in Roma was an incredible experience, and it had a very different feel to the last few times I had been in Italy when it was the middle of winter. Apart from the obvious increase in the number of tourists, the city also seems to be more alive. The setting of the sun doesn't occur until around 10pm, and and as a result the crowds remain in the city until late in the evening.

We had a busy three days exploring Roma including the obvious attractions like Il Colosseo, La Fontana di Trevi, La Basilica di San Pietro and others. We also spent many hours of the day wondering around getting lost in the little cobblestone streets that wind their way endlessly through the city.

On the third night in the city we arranged to catch up with Mel and Pat, which was exciting as it was the first familiar face we had seen. Together we spent hours sharing stories in the park before heading to [Travastere] in search of the infamous "chocolate shots" bar.

The rest of the evening we spent enojying a margherita pizza, a delicious hazelnut flavoured chocolate shop and a long walk back to our hostel on the other side of the city.

From Roma we travelled the short few hours North to the little village of Orvieto. Having visited Orvieto on my first trip to Italy, I remembered it as being a very beautiful village situated on the top of a mountain with an incredible view of the surrounding countryside. It was exactly as I had remembered, but even more beautiful at the height of summer as there was an incredible view of the acres of green fields below.

We spent our time in Orvieto staying with an Italian family who were a friend of Nina's in their gorgeous little home. It was a relaxing few days as we took the opportunity to relax and experience the true Italian way of life, and for me to enjoy speaking Italian.

From Orvieto we went to Firenze where we checked into a camping ground for three nights. We had arranged to meet up again with Mel and Pat for their final night in the city, and together we watched the sunset from our idyllic position on the top of the hill and then finished the evening in a restaurant where we all indulged in a big bowl of Italian pasta.

Like Roma, the following few days we wondered around Firenze, visited the famous leather markets and spent many hours people watching. While I enjoyed revisiting Firenze, it was a very hot few days and we were both relieved knowing in a few days we would have the opportunity to dive into the Mediterranean after a long three and a half months without the ocean.

Our trip along the West coast of Italy and the South of France aboard Paso Doble was spectacular to say the least. We visited a number of gorgeous little villages where we were able to observe the unique European summer culture without the masses of tourists.

The Mediterranean is unlike anywhere else I have ever seen during the summer period. The atmosphere both on the sea and on land is one of excitement as the holiday-makers enjoy the sunlight which lasts until late in the evening. The ocean is crowded with million dollar yachts and enormous speed boats, all of which accommodate wealthy families and their friends. Every evening the boats dock in some of the most prestigious marinas in the world (like Porto Venere and Monaco), giving their owners a chance to show off their prized possessions and for the people on land to likewise admire them.

 Over the two weeks we covered a fair distance, from Porto Ferraio to Porto Venere, (along the Cinque Terre), Sestri Levante, Genova, San Remo, Monaco ending our trip in Antibes. Each place had it's own attractions, but it was Porto Venere that I immediately fell in love with.

A small village that stretches along the edge of a cliff, this town has many attractive features. The cobblestone streets that wind their way up the hill are filled with fascinatingly tall houses that are each treated to the view of the bay below. On the highest point of the cliff face is a gorgeous little church decorated with black and white marble. It is not surprising that the church is in such a dominant position as this is the case in most Italian cities.  Also, it had an amazing jumping spot off the side of the cliff where one could swim alongside the soaring cliffs which form this part of the coastline. It is no wonder that Porto Venere was the long term retreat of the late Lord Byron, and it is certainly understandable how he was able to draw inspiration from the place.

The weeks on the boat also provided for Nina and I some time to relax and enjoy the summer sun after having a cold few winter months. As Maria was also on the boat with us, we were treated to some gourmet meals which came as a big treat! I commend her on her efforts as she was able to prepare some very deluxe meals in the small kitchen on board. We were also grateful for the delicious fresh produce we would often find in local markets as we went for our morning walks to explore each of the little towns before the rest of the people had begun their day.

One of the other amazing places we visited on the Italian coast was Portofino. I recognized the name as the place where my parents had spent their honeymoon all of those years ago. After anchoring in the bay we took the dinghy ashore to have a closer look at the little town. The main piazza was filled with restaurants selling Italian delicacies and the surrounding laneways were filled with designer boutiques to satisfy the demands of Portofino's wealthy visitors. After a slow passeggiata around the town it was obvious why mum and dad would have chosen such a place to spend their holiday. 

On the way back to the boat we admired the extensive gardens that spread the width of the cliffs, each filled with olive trees as well as some unusual species of plants.

Our stopover in Genova after a week on the boat gave us a chance to stock up on supplies as well as pick up our two new passengers for the following week. Daniella and Tanja, two Swiss women, boarded the boat armed with some much needed nespresso refils, and we began sailing toward San Remo.

To celebrate the departure of Maria, Alexandre, Nina and I we went out to dinner on arriving in Antibes. We found a nice outdoor eating area where we enjoyed our first French meal as well as some entertainment by a local group of young musicians.

The next morning Nina and I boarded the train to Nice, as Maria and Alexandre headed to Barcelona and Hans was left with Christian to continue sailing. It was a sad time as I watched the Triado family split and go their separate ways, their next full reunion not until July of next year.

Unfortunately our stay in Nice was cut short due to a number of issues, and we has only one day to see the city.

It was another scorching summer day and so we headed to the seaside, one of the iconic beaches on the famous Cote d'Azur. The European beach scene is much different to the one in Australia... Rocks replace sand, waves are nowhere to be seen and the number of people is multiplied by hundreds (in a much smaller space). 

We barely noticed as the hours passed and we realised we had been on the beach for many hours. Being much closer to one's fellow beach-goers also means that they can offer a great source of entertainment, especially the French and Italian crowds. Totally devoted to their image and tan, many barely touch the water and spend most of their time posing for photos on the shore.

This put an end to another stage of our journey, and we were excited to begin our backpacking across Europe. 

The Final Month in South America.

Firstly, I apologise for the delay in posting this blog...but I have been too busy triapsing across the Argentinian countryside tasting wine and exploring the different cities this country has to offer. However this episode begins back in Peru.
 

Our time in Peru was unintentionally short lived due to the dangerous protests that were causing problems at the Peru/Bolivia border, however it was a truly fantastic week and well worth the extra flight costs.
We left La Paz in the early morning of the 3rd of July and arrived in Cusco that same day. We had the afternoon to explore as much of the city as we could, and we enjoyed the few hours that we had in the massive market located in the centre of the city. We had also coincided our arrival into Cusco with the celebrations of the 100th anniversary of the "discovery" of Machu Picchu (despite the fact it had been inhabited by over a hundred years by the Incas prior to this).

In the evening we attended the briefing to our Inca Trail that departed the following day. We were slightly worried as our guide Reuben casually informed us that we may have to skip the famous Dead Woman´s Pass (the 4215m elevation that is ultimately the greatest achievement of the trek) and go via the valley due to snow fall. Not only were we worried we would miss the opportunity to climb the slope but we also realised that snow meant only one thing - freezing conditions!

The following morning we arrived at the corner of the street ready to board the bus...which was nowhere to be seen. We could only laugh as we soon discovered (after initially being frightened we´d been left behind) that we had forgotten to change the times on our phones and as a result we spent an extra hour standing in the freezing cold at 4:30 in the morning.
The first day trek was comparatively easy, however we were introduced to the Inca stairs which make up much of the remainder of the walk, and provide the extra challenge for the hikers.
For the next three days we were treated to perfect weather as we made our way along the Inca Trail.
The climb up Dead Woman´s Pass was a fantastic and exhilirating one and a half hour ascent at a quick pace, and to see the view of the surrounding mountains from a 4215 elevation was spectacular. An American guy and I raced ahead of the group to experience the view from the top before it was disrupted by the remainder of the hikers and porters.
 

The final day we were woken earlier than the previous days in order to get through the checkpoint and get to Heaven´s Gate (the viewpoint from which one can see the whole of Machu Picchu) before sunrise. On the final night before groups make their way to Machu Picchu it is compulsory for all hikers to camp at the one site, and as a result it becomes a race to get to Heaven´s Gate to get the best view of the sunrise over the ancient city before the crowd. Our group was the second last to pass through the checkpoint, however I was determined to reach the top before the 499 other hikers so along with my new Scottish friend David, I ran to the top and managed to arrive before all but three hikers. Again the view was unlike anything else, and the city was much grander than I had expected.

When the rest of the group arrived we descended into Machu Picchu and spent the next two hours touring the city and exploring each of the important monuments which are incredibly still intact.
There was then the option to climb the mountain that stood next to Machu Picchu city, Huayna Picchu, and was slightly higher, so I set off with the two Scottish boys from our group. After a quick 30 minute walk that was almost vertical we arrived at the top and had a great birds-eye view over the city.
We had a slightly different experience of Machu Picchu than the regular visit as it was the celebration of the 100th anniversary. Consequently, the 1500 visitors that come daily from Cusco were prohibited from entering and instead I walked past the Peruvian President, along with a number of other officials. There was also a stage set up and dancers performed a number of traditional routines. The whole experience seemed a bit surreal and it was a bit of a juxtaposition seeing all of the modern day sound equipment positioned on a centuries-old city.
When we left the mountain after lunchtime we went down to Aguas Calientes where we were served a buffet lunch. This was no surprise considering we had been truly spoiled during the entire hike with each meal consisting of three gourmet courses cooked by our young old chef.

We arrived late into Cusco that evening and spent the last few hours packing our bag for our early departure the following morning.
It was freezing as we woke up at 4:30 the following morning only to discover after having showered and packed our bags that we had again forgotten to change the times on our phones and we now had to spend the hour of 5am wondering around the deserted hostel.
After a long day of flight delays due to the continuing volcanic action in Chile we arrived in Buenos Aires.
The excitement began from the moment we checked in at Art Hostel as we had a little reunion with Maryam and Saleem.
The rest of the weekend we spent exploring Buenos Aires and making the most of Saleem´s last few days in the city before he headed back home to America.
On Saturday night our plans to enjoy the famous Buenos Aires nightlife were ruined by the election which was to run the following day (and as a result everything was forced to close early the night before).
Instead we enjoyed the live Argentinian band who came to play in our hostel and spent the early hours of the morning enjoying the company of other hostel guests on the roof terrace. We also tuned in to the Copa America game, the soccer competition that involves a team from each country in South America.
Saleem left for the airport the following morning and we began to plan our trip around Argentina. Nina and I had three weeks and Maryam two, so we arranged to be back in Buenos Aires for her departure on the 24th.
The past two weeks we have been travelling around the Central and Northern parts of Argentina: Buenos Aires - Rosario - Cordoba - Mendoza - Salta - Puerto Iguazu - Buenos Aires.

Our schedule was fairly tight, with every second night for the first week spent on a bus getting from one place to the next.
Strangely enough however it didn´t seem rushed, and the few days we spent in each city was enough to give us a taste of its character and allow us to explore the best sites.
Rosario was the first city we visited, and perhaps remains my favourite. We checked into a lovely little family-run hostel, La Lechuza, before heading out to explore the last hours of the day. We walked down to the river and walked along the pier and watched the hundreds of young people who had discovered the pier as a nice place to spend the evening skateboarding and drinking mate´.
That evening we met two Australian boys who had been in Rosario for two weeks, having initially only intended to stay for two nights. They told us the best parts of the city to visit the following day and we spent the evening in their company along with twelve French exchange students who were currently studying in the city.
We woke early the next morning and were heading towards the city´s monument before I spotted a nice little clothing boutique. An hour or so later we exited the shop, each with an extra bag in hand and a slightly smug expression on our faces.
We climbed the city´s monument and were treated to a magnificent view of the entire city and the river that wound around the outskirts.
We headed back to the hostel that evening after spending the rest of the day visiting the sites of the city and admiring its architecture. Juan, the owner of the hostel entertained us until 10pm that night when we headed back to the bus terminal to make our way to Cordoba.

Our hostel in Cordoba was the worst we had stayed in yet- the floors were covered in cigarette ash, the surfaces were dirty and the staff were useless- they were completely disinterested in maintaining any form of hygiene and organisation.
The two days we had in Cordoba we spent admiring the various art galleries (although unfortunately few were open) and went for a long walk in the central park. We managed to find the best gelato in the city where Nina and I indulged in chocolate tart with brownie and dulce de leche (a sweet spread that is everywhere in South America and has a similar flavour and consistency to condensed milk). Maryam went for the banana split dessert to satisfy her everlasting sweet tooth- three flavours of icecream with banana and dulce de leche smothered on the top.

We also found another few shops where we all purchased a little something. When I got back to the hostel I noticed for the first time that the woman had charged me $98 Argentinian pesos instead of $398...and that perhaps it was karma for the fact that when I first arrived in Argentina the ATM dispensed a $10 instead of a $100. Either way I was happy with my absolute bargain!

The next stop was Mendoza, the famous region in Argentina known for its history of wine production. We were overwhelmed with relief as we arrived at the Empedrado Hostel to find a very clean, friendly atmosphere with many other bonuses such as a gourmet breakfast (eggs and pancakes!) and free wine tasting that evening.

At 2pm we left our hostel and began a tour of two of the vineyards closeby. We were shown the winemaking process and were given a taste of each of the wines at the close of the tour. Unfortunately as it was winter the landscape looked fairly barren and there were no grapes on the trees, however it was nice to see a taste of the Argentinian countryside.
We also visited an olive oil factory where we were shown the very simple process in place to produce the different varieties of their extra-virgin olive oil. When we stepped into the factory we were met with the glorious olive fragrance and we struggled to leave after inhaling it for ten minutes.
We were given a taste of the different varieties and then made our way back to Mendoza as this last stop signified the close of the tour.
That evening we continued drinking wine as we participated as pupils of the wine tasting session. The woman directed us as to how wine should be properly tasted and then allowed us to decide for ourselves whether we liked the flavours of the local wine...which we certainly did.
We had a free day in Mendoza to wonder the city again, and as many of the museums were again closed we spent much of the time soaking up the sun in the central park where there was a festival to celebrate the wine in Mendoza. Each individual -man, woman and even child were given a small bag with an apple and a popper of wine.
As we made our way back to the bus terminal we were grateful that we had decided to make the detour to Mendoza as we were satisfied with our visit to the city.
As we completed each step of our journey the duration of the bus trips began to increase, as did the ticket prices which are surprisingly expensive! Overall we spent nearly $550 on buses (over half of our budget for the entire three weeks in Argentina) however it was well worth it to see these impressive cities.

We were all looking forward to Salta as we had discussed it would be the destination where we would be able to have a bit of a splurge and do some outdoor activities...and that we did.
Our first day in Salta was beautifully sunny and was perfect for the whitewater rafting we had booked for the day. We spent a few hours going down the rapids and had a great time admiring the surrounding landscape.

Before being served lunch Nina, Maryam and I walked to the middle of the bridge and took turns bungee jumping, plunging towards the freezing river below.

After the swinging and hanging in the air I was dropped into a boat and brought to shore where I watched the others nervously drop.
We had a delicious lunch, returned to Salta and topped off our already perfect day with another (guilty) clothing purchase and a traditional Argentinian beer - Quilmers.
The following day the weather had changed rapidly and there was a harsh wind blowing through the city. We wondered around the Plaza and the surrounding streets however we then had to get back to the hostel to prepare for our 24 hour bus ride to Puerto Iguazu...which we were all beginning to dread.

Our day in Iguazu Falls was unfortunately dominated by the poor weather- the first rainy day we had experienced in the trip so far. We saw the falls from a number of different viewpoints and managed to get a few photos in the spray, and in the afternoon we went on the walks through the rainforest.

We arrived back in Buenos Aires exhausted, but very satisfied. After a night out in Crobar, one of the biggest clubs in the city, we must now farewell Maryam who flies back to La Paz tomorrow. It has been a fantastic few months with her and she has become one of my best friends, which is amazing considering the short time we have known each other. The feelings of sadness are shadowed by my excitement to see her when I have a month in the UK in November.

Nina and I now have a few more days in Buenos Aires to walk around the different districts before we head to Rome. It has been an incredible few months on this continent, and I plan to come back in the new future to explore the rest of the territory that I am yet to visit.

A Festive Farewell to Bolivia

June is the month for festivals in La Paz. Over the past few weeks we have attended a number of traditional Bolivian celebrations in and around the city including El Gran Poder, Aymara New Year and San Juan. Traditional Bolivia is also the theme for the Bolivian Express issue for this month, so each of these interesting and very different celebrations has been documented by one of the interns.

Early on Saturday morning as Nina and I awoke after a big night out we could hear the sounds of the parade that is characteristic of the Gran Poder. The Gran Poder is an annual event that celebrates both Jesus Christ and the Pachamama (Mother Earth), tying together both Catholic and Andean beliefs. It continues throughout the entire day and is a festival that brings together not only the different cultures, but is attended by Pacenos (citizens of La Paz) of all ages.

The parade celebrates the different traditional dances of various Bolivian cultures, and the importance of these dances for the participants is evident in the preparations taken to both practise the dance and make the very elaborate costumes. For some dancers, practise begins months prior to the day in order to perfect the routine. These days there is criticism surrounding the festival as some believe it to have forgotten it’s religious origins and has become more commercialised. Some Paceños are beginning to complain that the costumes are mere representations of the individual’s wealth and prestige.

Despite this criticism, the costumes are in a league of their own and are an incredible display of clever handicraft. Nina and I arrived at the parade later in the morning to catch a glimpse of the dancers up close before the big crowds start arriving later in the afternoon. As I was covering the Gran Poder for the magazine I managed to interview a few of the dancers while they caught their breath, and this was an interesting way to learn about the opinions of the evolvement of the festival of those involved.

Later in the evening we visited the parade for a second time, however we waited in line for over two hours before we were allowed through the gates due to the masses of people eager to enter the festival. It gave us the chance to meet some Bolivians and enjoy the taste of the traditional Bolivian beer, Pacena.

Two days later at around 7pm we made our way to Tihuanacu for Aymara New Year. It is rather ironic that this is celebrated at the ruins in Tihuanacu considering the ruins represent the history of a different people entirely.

Warned of the -20 degree temperatures that are typical of the evening we wrapped up in our many layers and made our way to the town centre. We were all suffering from a cold and were slightly worried about the fact that it was another 7 hours until the celebration began. As midnight finally arrived we had already been in the cold for three hours, had eaten as much as we could bare and were all struggling to keep our eyes from closing. The atmosphere of the night was much like New Year anywhere in the world…everyone was very relaxed drinking and dancing along to the live band.

At 12:30pm we made the executive decision to go home. We were all sniffling and couldn’t see ourselves surviving in the cold until 6am when the Aymara people celebrate the New Year. We still managed to soak up as much of the evening as possible and were glad to rid us of the overpriced entrance fee that was being charged to foreigners!

For the next few days we were back in La Paz finalising our articles and booking different hostels for the rest of our trip. Nina and I were forced also to research the problems at the border between Copacabana and Puno that have caused mayhem for the past few weeks. Many travellers have been stopped from crossing between countries or have otherwise been forced to walk miles as bus lines have refused to transport tourists due to many attacks on buses. We ended up booking a flight to Cusco from La Paz to avoid the dangers that continue to arise in the area and to avoid overstaying our visa in a country where there is a price to pay for neglecting the rules.

Bolivia is known throughout South America for having the World’s Most Dangerous Road, a very narrow, windy, steep 63km strip of rocky road that winds up at the small village of Coroico. Eager to make the most of this road, more commonly known as “Death Road”, we signed up with Gravity tours to mountain bike-ride down the road.

As the road has resulted in many casualties over the years, before beginning the ride each person must sign a declaration saying the company takes no responsibility for any injuries or deaths which occur during the five hour descent.

The journey begins on asphalt, however it is not long before we arrive at the rocky surface that we become so familiar with for the rest of the day. It is thrilling to ride down through the trees with an incredible view across the valley. At some stages of the ride it is slightly unnerving as you can see the 500m-drop to the bottom and stories start arising about the many deaths that have occurred along the way.

Within the first few kilometres of the ride we were told to put our cameras away and get off our bikes to pass through what appeared to be a very strict checkpoint. Each car that was descending the mountain was checked for chemicals that could be used in the production of cocaine, and each car that ascended for the actual substance itself. As we were without bags the guards considered us fairly harmless, and we passed through without being searched.

We were fortunate enough to have the owner of the company, Alistair, on our ride as he was testing our New Zealand guide, Chad, as to whether he was good enough to join the Gravity team. Alistair informed us that there are over thirty companies that take groups down the death road, but that there is only one other he would recommend to take. I understood his reasoning during the ride when I would watch as other group leaders flew down the hill encouraging the riders to keep up, neglecting to give any sort of guidance to the ignorant riders. Alistair told us that it is these companies that are the ones responsible for the deaths on the road, and he said the cause of many is testosterone exceeding ability.

Interestingly enough Alistair (slightly frustratingly) told us that if one of the other companies loses a rider over the edge they will often wait for the Gravity guides to come and rescue the person, knowing that they have the correct safety equipment (which many of the companies lack).

The ride was a truly exhilarating experience, and ironically there wasn’t a moment when I really felt unsafe (which says something-wait until you see the road!). I was glad we each decided not to compromise our safety and to go with the most expensive company.

At the end of the ride we were given a souvenir t-shirt and were taken to the Animal Refuge in Coroico. We were served a buffet lunch, were treated to clean bathrooms and showers and were given the opportunity to visit the various wildlife housed in the refuge.

I was feeling very sick by this stage (from a big week) so I opted not to do the flying fox however Maryam and Nina flew across the valleys and said it was a very fun experience.

We then began the three-hour ascent up the same, very windy road and arrived back in La Paz at 9pm that same evening. Having been invited by Vampi to go to “Ignition”, a very exclusive party in the wealthy district of La Paz, we took off our biking clothes and replaced them with our best attire. San Juan, a typically Spanish festival, falls on the 23^rd of June as is likewise celebrated in South American nations. Ignition was a party designed to coincide with San Juan and provide the youth with an event to enjoy the evening.

Walking through the entrance to the party as five ‘gringos’, we felt very obviously out of place, as there was not another foreigner within a hundred miles of the party. After a few drinks, dancing and laughs with our Bolivian friends, the feeling faded and we enjoyed the night.

Saturday night we hosted a small gathering at our apartment to catch up with our friends. Gato and his girlfriend, Guido, Vampi, Darko and a few of their friends joined us for some rounds of Four Kings and to sit around and enjoy our view over La Paz.
Sundays are very slow in La Paz, as like many other world cities, everything closes and there is little to do. We spent the day organising further our trip and finalising our flight details.

Monday morning we left for a two-day journey to Lake Titicaca. We boarded a micro for 17bs and arrived in Copacabana three hours later. Copacabana is a small lakeside town that thrives on tourism and is known for serving trout, the fish that was brought to the lake many centuries ago to provide the citizens with some protein for their diet.

We checked into Hostal 6 de Agosto and spent the afternoon wandering through the few streets in the town. We visited the Cathedral and admired its internal gold decoration, however having spent so much time in Italy there are few churches that live up to those exquisitely-decorated Cathedrals in Roma.

We had an early dinner at Coffee-Shop Copacabana, where we were served an extremely generous portion of spaghetti Bolognese as we watched the sun set over the lake. Having booked our tour of Isla Del Sol for early the following morning, we had a very early night.

The following day we travelled by boat from the Northern end of the Island to the South, stopping in three small villages along the way. There was little to do at the villages aside from sit by the lake and soak up the sun, so this is exactly what we did. Being a water person, I was glad to finally be by the water after being in a landlocked country for two months.

When we arrived back in Copacabana that same afternoon we had a few hours to kill before our bus left for La Paz…so what better to do than sit down in a café and eat! However it is important that I mention this experience, as it was at this particular restaurant that we were each treated to a gastronomic delight. Nina had fried eggplant with vegetables, Seni ate a plate of fajitas and I indulged in the best falafels I have eaten (aside from at the Orgasmic café in good ol’ Lismore). The journey home was much the same as the way there, and after a big day of travelling and eating we spent much of it asleep in the backseat of the micro.

 For the last few days we have been soaking up the scenes in La Paz that we have become so fond of over the past few months. Vampi, Seni, Nina and I have been enjoying the last of each others company before we head to Cusco and Seni returns to Denver to start Uni. It is going to be a sad farewell not only to the city that we have made our home but also the many people that we have made friends with here. We also met the two new interns for this month, and it is strange to think that the apartment will be so empty with only two. Tonight we intend on having a nice gathering at the apartment as a sort of farewell with the whole crew - Nina, Seni, Vampi, Robbie, Nieva, Darko, Ivan, Sharoll, Gato and Juan. Tomorrow we are entering the next stage of our journey, and it is a very exciting prospect for the both of us!