Delhi
Namaste!
Our first few days in India were spent amongst the hustle and bustle of Delhi, a city of around 17 million inhabitants. Having spent the past month in London, it was certainly a world away from anything I had become used to over the past month. Beggars, shoe cleaners, rickshaws, fruit stalls, and serious traffic were all somehow crowded into the small streets in the city.
After meeting the group and our leader Pradeep, we were taken to the city's famous Mosque. From within the Mosque we were treated to great views of the Red Fort and the chaotic streets of the city. I was excited to find that our next stop was the bazaar, where I was able to admire the beautiful silk fabrics of which India is known for.
After a stroll through the fabric stalls Pradeep took us on a local bus to the Sikh temple. In order to experience a part of the religion we were dressed up in traditional headpieces and were led inside to witness the ceremony take place. After spending a few moments on the carpet listening to the musicians and admiring the decorations in the temple, we went to the kitchen where we watched as a group of women prepared dal and chapati for the thousands of people who pass through each day for a free lunch. Women can also come and work in the kitchen and earn a small living, and we watched as a tiny young girl sat with her mother learning how to cut the millions of potatoes being prepared for the dal.
In the afternoon we visited the local spice market before returning to the hotel to pack for our departure the next day.
In the evening we had our first taste of the sensational Indian flavours. Nina and I indulged in a chicken masala curry and some mixed vegetables, and left feeling more than satisfied.
Agra
The city of Agra itself is not much of a place, however it is in the surrounding areas that one is able to visit one of the most beautiful sites in the world, the Taj Mahal.
Having spent the morning on the train, the group was eager to get out and have a walk around the Red Fort. It is an amazing structure that is an earthy red in colour and was built over 90 years ago. While 75% of the Fort remains in the hands of the army and is therefore closed to tourists, the remaining 25% is perhaps the most interesting part as it houses the beautiful rooms and views of the surrounding countryside. We had another delicious Indian lunch before we were off to join the thousands of other tourists at the Taj Mahal.
It is a scene of singular beauty, and strangely enough the tranquility of the place didn't seem to be disrupted by tourists as they walk along the edge of the structure and almost go unnoticed. After we took turns taking photos and visiting the tombs inside, it was then time to just stand back and admire the amazing architecture and whole atmosphere created by the place.
Nina and I then decided to sit for a few minutes, and it was in that position that we remained for the next half hour as many Indians approached us (even going to the point where they began lining up) to get photos with the white girls.
A hundred photos and two sore cheeks later we had to leave the Taj and head back to the hotel, but not before a gorgeous little Indian girl came up to me and gave me a little kiss.
Fort Madhogarh
It was an interesting six-hour bus journey from Agra as we drove alongside cows and other stray animals to the Fort. Driving is India is never peaceful, and to give you some idea, the Indians use horns on the road as much as Italians use tomatoes in their cooking!
We checked into this fantastic Fort that stands in the middle of the Indian countryside and were treated to some fantastic rooms with frescoes dating back hundreds of years.
After we were served lunch by the staff we spent the afternoon walking through the nearby village and meeting the locals. It was one of the most enjoyable experiences so far as we met some gorgeous little children and their families, observed others making crafts and made the most of the fresh country air.
As the sun set that evening we all sat on the top of the tower and had a refreshing drink.
For dinner it was time to dress up in saris and participate in some dancing whilst the local musicians played some tunes. Pradeep was, surprisingly, an incredibly good dancer, and he explained to us that his friends won't go out without him as he is the 'life of the party'.
After a buffet dinner we slowly made our way back to our rooms and went to bed.
Jaipur
Just as we had watched the sun set the previous evening, we were treated to breakfast in the same spot with a perfect view of the sun rising above the mountains.
We piled into the vans and drove to the Amber Fort, a destination on the outskirts of Jaipur. We had an informative tour of the fort where we were shown the various rooms and gardens of the palace.
In Jaipur that afternoon we had a walk around the city and admired the famous Bollywood Cinema, the bazaar and the many shops selling gem stones of which the city is famous for.
That evening after a very cheap and delicious curry we were taken back to the hotel by Gorem, the local rickshaw driver. After we got talking with him about the city and his life to date, he kindly offered to take us around the following day and show us some of the more beautiful and less touristy sites of Jaipur, and so we accepted and agreed to meet him the following morning.
While I admit it is a little too early to judge, today could possibly be my favourite day on the entire trip. We started the morning with a delicious fresh bowl of papaya and banana, and had a lovely cup of tea chatting to Pradeep. At 9:30 we met Hayley and Kirsty (her sister who had just flown in to meet up with the group) and went outside to find Gorem polishing his rickshaw, ready to take us on a local tour of Jaipur.
After surviving another half hour of chaotic traffic, we arrived at the White Marble Temple. It was beautifully constructed using pure white marble and was an attraction not known to other tourists, and we were therefore able to enjoy it in a peaceful atmosphere. After having another few photos taken at the request of some local Indians, Gorem then took us to the Akshat Gem Palace. Over a cup of chai tea and accompanies by some very eager-to-sell staff, we each tried on a number of different items, all settling on a few pieces. It felt like the right time to be purchasing such items as Jaipur is famous for it's semi-precious stones.
Gorem was then eager to take us to the warehouse where his brother works. I was overwhelmed by the mounds of gorgeous Indian fabrics exploding with colour all around the room. On the top floor of the factory we saw the workers in the different design and manufacturing processes, and then went downstairs to the shop to buy a few things. I ended up with a gorgeous beaded top and a few scarves (each $2), and I was glad to see them sell some of their wall-hangings to Kirsty who bought them to decorate her childrens' rooms.
After many hours of shopping we were feeling the need for some lunch, and we requested Gorem take us to a 'good, cheap and local' place.
We had the best meal we had tasted so far in India...the flavour of the masala and the crispiness of the vegetables was impeccable, and again I thought of Tom when I tried the best garlic naan I've ever eaten.
We couldn't believe it totaled $2 per person, despite the fact we had five dishes, bread, rice and water between us!
On the way to the (cinema) we had a quick stop at another handicraft store to look around, however we had all felt that we'd spent enough money for the day. We then farewelled Gorem and thanked him for an extraordinary day, one that I know I will never forget.
At 3pm we took a seat with the rest of the group in the fabulous old Bollywood Cinema, apparently the second biggest in Asia.
Desi Boyz was a hilarious film that stretched on for over two hours. It was entertaining to say the least and easy to follow due to the typical romantic storyline, and was a must do experience considering we are in India.
At 6pm we made our way back to the hotel and had a quick fried rice for dinner, before heading up to the room to relax and eventually go to bed. The day had been made so special by such a generous local man, and it really dawned on me later in the evening how lucky we were to have such a different experience in this beautiful country.
Ranthambhore
We woke this morning to another beautiful sunny day in Jaipur. After a bowl of paw paw and banana that really hit the spot, we got into the bus and had a five hour drive to our hotel in Ranthambhore.
Despite the extreme bumpiness of the journey, it was interesting to watch the life of the Indian villagers whom we passed along the way.
Unlike when driving on the roads in a Western country, in India one shares the road not only with other cars, trucks, motorbikes and bikes, but also with tuk tuks (CHECK), tractors, men pulling trailers and even elephants, camels and cows, and hence the reason any journey takes twice the time it normally would elsewhere.
At the Hotel we had a nice lunch in the garden, and at 1:45 we got in a camouflaged jeep to begin our safari of the National park.
Known for it's population of tigers, unfortunately we saw every other animal but these special creatures. During the four hours we watched deer, crocodiles, peacocks, squirrels and other bird species go about their life in the wild, and it was a nice change to be in the fresh air and close to nature.
The drive home was freezing as the sun was replaced by an icy wind that whipped between the trees.
We welcomed the hot water and each headed straight to the rooms for a shower, and the night ended with another similar meal of a yummy mixed vegetable and chickpea curry.
Bundi
A yummy Indian masala omelette started us off this morning with the much needed energy for the day, although the first three hours was spent in a minivan as we drove to the nearby town of Bundi. At the halfway mark we had a stopover at a tiny little town beside a lake, and the locals managed to impress the rest of the group with their cadbury supplies. As all Indians do, we were then given a cup of homemade chai tea. Unlike in Australia where there is an explosion of cinnamon, the Indian version has a much different flavour and is made with black pepper, ginger, buffalo milk, nutmeg, cardamon and sugar.
When we arrived in Bundi, Nina and I wanted to stretch our legs so we went for a stroll in the local area. We had only been walking for twenty minutes when a young boy called us into his house and introduced us to his family. Over the next few hours we chatted to him with his impressive English skills he had learnt in just one month in an English course. We were also given chai tea, and at the mention of nina's favourite fruit being papaya, the young girl soon presented a platter of chopped papaya and guavas.
As we observed each of the women drawing henna patterns onto themselves, they were then enthusiastic to draw it on our hands.
We'd spent a great few hours with them learning about their family and Bundi before it was time to get back to the group to go to the Palace. We had one of the best moments of our entire trip sitting in the presence of this friendly Indian family, and had we not had to catch a train the following morning we would definitely be back there the next night for the party which they had invited us to.
On the way to the palace we had a stopover at one of the many hundreds of wells in the town. It was an incredible 46 meters deep and 100 metres long, a very impressive monument.
We met our local guide at the palace which has great views over the city. It's a really cool sort of place as it was used up until the 1950s and hasn't been restored since. There are miniature paintings covering the walls and the towers are all guarded by monkeys, however the most attractive part is it's unique architecture which is a mixture of Hindu and Muslim design.
From the palace we spent the evening walking through the old town and into the local market where all of the fresh fruit and vegetables from the local region is on sale. We made a stop at the shop selling the best chai in India, and we were able to watch him prepare the delicious concoction.
On the way back to the hotel we bought some fresh fruit and Indian sweets to share, and watched as the townspeople led their cows through the rows of stalls and collected their dinner ingredients.
Red and orange flames burned in the fire which we all huddled beside in the time leading up to dinner. After a big day of food Nina and I settled for a light lentil soup before heading to bed early in preparation for an early start.
The Middle of Nowhere
Picture this: a beautiful, very tranquil town beside a lake with cows roaming the countryside and birds swooping into the water. This is our 'campsite' (a very luxury one at that) somewhere in India where we are spending tonight.
The day started early as we waited for the train to bring us to Bassi. Unlike the last train, this time we were to travel on a local Indian train. I'll admit, I had preconceived ideas about what this train would be like, however it far exceeded my expectations in terms of comfort and space.
Sitting on the train I was admiring one woman who seemed to be wearing her entire collection of jewelry. Pradeep then informed me that this is exactly the case. He explained that the uneducated women in India spend all of their savings on real gold jewels because they don't understand the banking system and the notion of saving.
While perhaps it is not the most sensible way to live, it makes for a truly beautiful appearance as the stunning jewels contrast their lovely brown skin tones.
From the train station we had a very bumpy and exciting 4-wheel-drive experience to our luxury camping spot beside the lake. On our arrival we were greeted with drums and the traditional flower necklaces as we were then assigned our tent- a permanent structure with it's very own bathroom and balcony with deck chairs.
For lunch we had some dal and mixed vegetables, and while I have eaten many versions of these two dishes, the two we ate today had a nice country taste with some added herbs and flavour.
Feeling rather like a slob after so much eating and sitting in jeeps and trains, Krista and I set out on a long walk around the lake. It was a beautiful temperature and great chance to breath in the fresh air.
For the later hours of the afternoon I have been sitting by the side of the lake reading Emma and drinking homemade chai tea. It's been a tough day...
Bijapur
We were treated to luxury this morning as we consumed a yummy breakfast with a perfect view of the sun rising over the lake on the edge of our campsite.
We packed our things and then assembled in the jeeps for our morning village safari. With our local guide Monte, we stopped over at a small village and had a little tour of the buildings.
On visiting one family, we were welcomed inside their tiny home where we tried to imagine how four families and about 30 goats could live in such a confined space. The children were thrilled as Louise handed each of them a pen with the Australian flag design.
After driving for another few minutes we pulled over and had a walk around one of the farms. Onions, carrots, cabbage and turmeric are grown in the area, however it also has many crops of opium.
Monte explained to the group that to grow opium a farmer must obtain a license from the government, and once given permission that must then grow only a certain sized area of the crop.
The laws are apparently very strict, so if one farmer is expected to produce 15kg each year (which he must sell to the government) and he only grows 14kg for whatever reason, he must then purchase an extra kilogram of opium on the black market to reach his mark, otherwise his license will be withdrawn! Assumedly this is to prevent people from growing it for the wrong reasons, however it is fairly strict conditions considering crops are entirely weather dependent.
Another grand entrance awaited us as we arrived at the Castle Hotel with the drums and handcrafted flower necklaces. It is a beautiful old castle transformed into a hotel with a pool and many other facilities available. Considering most of our time has been spent in hostels, this really seemed like luxury.
Nina and I went for a quick walk through Bijapur, the tiny village just beside the castle, and met a friendly young girl, Chan. At 22 she is pregnant with her first child, lives with her family and supports them with her $2 per month salary. Impressed with her English skills, we asked where she learnt the language and she told us she learns it from a language book she borrows from a friend every week.
She presented us with a cute little bracelet, and on seeing that she only had minimal clothing for the winter, we gave her a jumper and a bit of money in the hope that she can look after her mother who lives at home and has been sick for over two years.
In the afternoon we relaxed by the pool reading our book and sipping on fresh lime juice and soda water.
Udaipur
I had a great two days in Udaipur, one of Rajasthan's cities of about 800,000 people.
The most exciting part of my time there was the boat ride. Despite the ridiculously slow speed at which we travelled, our one hour journey around the lake (that is actually man made) in Udaipur was spectacular. From the water we had an amazing view of the city and the Palace, and were able to get a closer look at the Lake Palace that floats in the middle of the water.
We had a tour from Pradeep of the palace (owned by the oldest royal family in the world) and it's many rooms, and there were some amazing mosaic designs that still remain hundreds of years after they were installed.
We made a quick stop on the way back from the palace at a little shop owned by a friend of Pradeep's selling miniature paintings. Apparently this city is known for these works, and while I wouldn't be interested in purchasing one, they were pretty amazing and seemingly require great skill.
Nina and I had had no trouble resisting the shops in India (often overwhelmingly filled with touristy junk) up until this point, however over the two days we both managed to purchase a few leather goods and presents for those back home.
Dinner on the second evening was a lot of fun. Pradeep, our extremely likable guide, hosted the evening providing us with a traditional Indian meal and taking the opportunity to introduce us to his two gorgeous sons, his wife and friends.
Despite it being the first place in a while where we had encountered lots of tourists, Udaipur was perhaps my favourite city we had seen so far.
Pushkar
Easily the most touristy city of our Indian adventure so far, Pushkar was an interesting and very religious place. It is the home of the only Brhama temple in the world and therefore attracts thousands of pilgrims from around the world. Like Udaipur, it centres around a man-made lake, however the one in Pushkar is a very religious place where many go to be blessed and bathe in the water. Our time in Pushkar was very short-lived, however we managed to fill up the time wandering around the city and visiting the different sites.
We spent our evening on a camel safari around the town and watched the sun set behind the surrounding moutains. In a country of many millions of people, the chances of running into a familiar face are fairly slim, however we were coincidently in the same city and hotel as Julia, a primary school friend. She joined us for our exploration of the city and for some delicious falafel and hummus plates and fruit salad.
It was a nice two days seeing another part of India and being able to see it in the presence of an old friend.
Delhi
Having spent the night on an overnight train, we spent our first morning back in Delhi freshening up. Thanks to the recommendation from Jaz, we then went for an afternoon outing with some of the other group to Hauz Khas, a more upmarket area in Delhi. Unfortunately, the fact that it was Sunday meant much of the area was closed however we did manage to sit down for a delicious lunch. As it was a fairly upmarket restaurant, Nina and I took teh chance to indulge in a fresh salad. As incredible as Indian food tastes, it can become very heavy when eating it day in and day out without the option of fresh vegetables. We then had a quick wander through the main village street where I spotted some great little Indian boutiques, before we had to head back to Karol Bagh.
The evening passed quickly as we sat in Kirsty and Hayley's room eating a selection of dried fruits and nuts and watched as they packed a ridiculous amount of shopping into their bags. Our final day in India was spent organising ourselves and packing, rather mundane tasks but necessary all the same. It has been an eye-opening two weeks that we have spent in India and it is sad to say goodbye, however the prospect of seeing friends and family in only a few hours makes it actually very exciting.
