The Way of the Wolff

The Final Wrap Up

2011-12-31T16:16:00.000-08:00

It was only a few days into my trip around the world to discover my love for writing lists. It definitely didn't start this year, and in fact I remember throughout school I wrote them as a way of organising my life (well, to a certain degree at least). After having visited sixteen very different countries over a fantastic eight months, I have decided to include a list of the 'top three' meals, museums, markets and much more!

HOSTELS

Art Factory Hostel, Buenos Aires

Bubble Hostel, Budapest

Urban House Hostel, San Sebastian

MARKETS

Camden Markets, London

El Alto Markets, La Paz
San Telmo Leather Markets, Buenos Aires

GROOVY CAFES

Mistral Cafe, Prague

Oliv, Berlin

Die Fabrik, Berlin

SPOTS TO WATCH THE SUNSET

The Pier, San Sebastian

The trampoline, The Boat in the Mediterranean

Our penthouse apartment, La Paz

MUSEUMS

The Guggenheim, Bilbao

Fundacion Joan Miro`, Barcelona

Musee D'Orsay, Paris

SCRUMPTIOUS MEALS

Goats cheese ravioli, steak and citrus tart, Hotel du Nord, Paris

Poached chicken and pomegranate salad, Somerset House, London

Maria's gourmet salads, The Boat

AREAS FOR FINDING THE BEST CLOTHING

Le Marias, Paris

Mitte, Berlin

Brick Lane & Shoreditch, London

NATURAL ESCAPES

Machu Picchu, Peru

Cappaodoccia, Turkey

The Mediterranean, Italy & France

SPOTS TO ENJOY A GLASS OF WINE AT NIGHT

The steps of the Basilique du Sacre-Coeur, Paris

Joe's roof, London

Below the Eiffel Tower, Paris

EXHIBITIONS

Gerhard Richter 'Panorama', Tate Modern, London
The Power of Making, Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Permanent exhibition, Mumok, Vienna

RESTAURANTS

Accademia, Barcelona

El Naturista, Santiago de Chile

Hotel du Nord, Paris

VIEWPOINTS OVER A CITY

The Woods, Zurich

The Castle, Budapest

Prague Castle, Prague

FREE WALKING TOURS

City tour, Santiago de Chile

New Berlin tour, Berlin

Graffiti tour, Buenos Aires

I like these lists, I think they remind me of the greatest and most exciting moments of my journey. I hope that, like me, the numerous blog posts from the past eight months will inspire you to visit, and consequently fall in love with these cities.

The Colours and Flavours of India

2011-12-29T00:57:00.000-08:00

Delhi

Namaste!

Our first few days in India were spent amongst the hustle and bustle of Delhi, a city of around 17 million inhabitants. Having spent the past month in London, it was certainly a world away from anything I had become used to over the past month. Beggars, shoe cleaners, rickshaws, fruit stalls, and serious traffic were all somehow crowded into the small streets in the city.
After meeting the group and our leader Pradeep, we were taken to the city's famous Mosque. From within the Mosque we were treated to great views of the Red Fort and the chaotic streets of the city. I was excited to find that our next stop was the bazaar, where I was able to admire the beautiful silk fabrics of which India is known for.

After a stroll through the fabric stalls Pradeep took us on a local bus to the Sikh temple. In order to experience a part of the religion we were dressed up in traditional headpieces and were led inside to witness the ceremony take place. After spending a few moments on the carpet listening to the musicians and admiring the decorations in the temple, we went to the kitchen where we watched as a group of women prepared dal and chapati for the thousands of people who pass through each day for a free lunch. Women can also come and work in the kitchen and earn a small living, and we watched as a tiny young girl sat with her mother learning how to cut the millions of potatoes being prepared for the dal.

In the afternoon we visited the local spice market before returning to the hotel to pack for our departure the next day.

In the evening we had our first taste of the sensational Indian flavours. Nina and I indulged in a chicken masala curry and some mixed vegetables, and left feeling more than satisfied.

Agra

The city of Agra itself is not much of a place, however it is in the surrounding areas that one is able to visit one of the most beautiful sites in the world, the Taj Mahal.

Having spent the morning on the train, the group was eager to get out and have a walk around the Red Fort. It is an amazing structure that is an earthy red in colour and was built over 90 years ago. While 75% of the Fort remains in the hands of the army and is therefore closed to tourists, the remaining 25% is perhaps the most interesting part as it houses the beautiful rooms and views of the surrounding countryside. We had another delicious Indian lunch before we were off to join the thousands of other tourists at the Taj Mahal.

It is a scene of singular beauty, and strangely enough the tranquility of the place didn't seem to be disrupted by tourists as they walk along the edge of the structure and almost go unnoticed. After we took turns taking photos and visiting the tombs inside, it was then time to just stand back and admire the amazing architecture and whole atmosphere created by the place.

Nina and I then decided to sit for a few minutes, and it was in that position that we remained for the next half hour as many Indians approached us (even going to the point where they began lining up) to get photos with the white girls.

A hundred photos and two sore cheeks later we had to leave the Taj and head back to the hotel, but not before a gorgeous little Indian girl came up to me and gave me a little kiss.

Fort Madhogarh

It was an interesting six-hour bus journey from Agra as we drove alongside cows and other stray animals to the Fort. Driving is India is never peaceful, and to give you some idea, the Indians use horns on the road as much as Italians use tomatoes in their cooking!

We checked into this fantastic Fort that stands in the middle of the Indian countryside and were treated to some fantastic rooms with frescoes dating back hundreds of years.

After we were served lunch by the staff we spent the afternoon walking through the nearby village and meeting the locals. It was one of the most enjoyable experiences so far as we met some gorgeous little children and their families, observed others making crafts and made the most of the fresh country air.

As the sun set that evening we all sat on the top of the tower and had a refreshing drink.

For dinner it was time to dress up in saris and participate in some dancing whilst the local musicians played some tunes. Pradeep was, surprisingly, an incredibly good dancer, and he explained to us that his friends won't go out without him as he is the 'life of the party'.

After a buffet dinner we slowly made our way back to our rooms and went to bed.

Jaipur

Just as we had watched the sun set the previous evening, we were treated to breakfast in the same spot with a perfect view of the sun rising above the mountains.
We piled into the vans and drove to the Amber Fort, a destination on the outskirts of Jaipur. We had an informative tour of the fort where we were shown the various rooms and gardens of the palace.

In Jaipur that afternoon we had a walk around the city and admired the famous Bollywood Cinema, the bazaar and the many shops selling gem stones of which the city is famous for.
That evening after a very cheap and delicious curry we were taken back to the hotel by Gorem, the local rickshaw driver. After we got talking with him about the city and his life to date, he kindly offered to take us around the following day and show us some of the more beautiful and less touristy sites of Jaipur, and so we accepted and agreed to meet him the following morning.

While I admit it is a little too early to judge, today could possibly be my favourite day on the entire trip. We started the morning with a delicious fresh bowl of papaya and banana, and had a lovely cup of tea chatting to Pradeep. At 9:30 we met Hayley and Kirsty (her sister who had just flown in to meet up with the group) and went outside to find Gorem polishing his rickshaw, ready to take us on a local tour of Jaipur.

After surviving another half hour of chaotic traffic, we arrived at the White Marble Temple. It was beautifully constructed using pure white marble and was an attraction not known to other tourists, and we were therefore able to enjoy it in a peaceful atmosphere. After having another few photos taken at the request of some local Indians, Gorem then took us to the Akshat Gem Palace. Over a cup of chai tea and accompanies by some very eager-to-sell staff, we each tried on a number of different items, all settling on a few pieces. It felt like the right time to be purchasing such items as Jaipur is famous for it's semi-precious stones.

Gorem was then eager to take us to the warehouse where his brother works. I was overwhelmed by the mounds of gorgeous Indian fabrics exploding with colour all around the room. On the top floor of the factory we saw the workers in the different design and manufacturing processes, and then went downstairs to the shop to buy a few things. I ended up with a gorgeous beaded top and a few scarves (each $2), and I was glad to see them sell some of their wall-hangings to Kirsty who bought them to decorate her childrens' rooms.
After many hours of shopping we were feeling the need for some lunch, and we requested Gorem take us to a 'good, cheap and local' place.

We had the best meal we had tasted so far in India...the flavour of the masala and the crispiness of the vegetables was impeccable, and again I thought of Tom when I tried the best garlic naan I've ever eaten.
We couldn't believe it totaled $2 per person, despite the fact we had five dishes, bread, rice and water between us!
On the way to the (cinema) we had a quick stop at another handicraft store to look around, however we had all felt that we'd spent enough money for the day. We then farewelled Gorem and thanked him for an extraordinary day, one that I know I will never forget.
At 3pm we took a seat with the rest of the group in the fabulous old Bollywood Cinema, apparently the second biggest in Asia.

Desi Boyz was a hilarious film that stretched on for over two hours. It was entertaining to say the least and easy to follow due to the typical romantic storyline, and was a must do experience considering we are in India.
At 6pm we made our way back to the hotel and had a quick fried rice for dinner, before heading up to the room to relax and eventually go to bed. The day had been made so special by such a generous local man, and it really dawned on me later in the evening how lucky we were to have such a different experience in this beautiful country.

Ranthambhore

We woke this morning to another beautiful sunny day in Jaipur. After a bowl of paw paw and banana that really hit the spot, we got into the bus and had a five hour drive to our hotel in Ranthambhore.
Despite the extreme bumpiness of the journey, it was interesting to watch the life of the Indian villagers whom we passed along the way.
Unlike when driving on the roads in a Western country, in India one shares the road not only with other cars, trucks, motorbikes and bikes, but also with tuk tuks (CHECK), tractors, men pulling trailers and even elephants, camels and cows, and hence the reason any journey takes twice the time it normally would elsewhere.

At the Hotel we had a nice lunch in the garden, and at 1:45 we got in a camouflaged jeep to begin our safari of the National park.
Known for it's population of tigers, unfortunately we saw every other animal but these special creatures. During the four hours we watched deer, crocodiles, peacocks, squirrels and other bird species go about their life in the wild, and it was a nice change to be in the fresh air and close to nature.

The drive home was freezing as the sun was replaced by an icy wind that whipped between the trees.
We welcomed the hot water and each headed straight to the rooms for a shower, and the night ended with another similar meal of a yummy mixed vegetable and chickpea curry.

Bundi

A yummy Indian masala omelette started us off this morning with the much needed energy for the day, although the first three hours was spent in a minivan as we drove to the nearby town of Bundi. At the halfway mark we had a stopover at a tiny little town beside a lake, and the locals managed to impress the rest of the group with their cadbury supplies. As all Indians do, we were then given a cup of homemade chai tea. Unlike in Australia where there is an explosion of cinnamon, the Indian version has a much different flavour and is made with black pepper, ginger, buffalo milk, nutmeg, cardamon and sugar.

When we arrived in Bundi, Nina and I wanted to stretch our legs so we went for a stroll in the local area. We had only been walking for twenty minutes when a young boy called us into his house and introduced us to his family. Over the next few hours we chatted to him with his impressive English skills he had learnt in just one month in an English course. We were also given chai tea, and at the mention of nina's favourite fruit being papaya, the young girl soon presented a platter of chopped papaya and guavas.

As we observed each of the women drawing henna patterns onto themselves, they were then enthusiastic to draw it on our hands.
We'd spent a great few hours with them learning about their family and Bundi before it was time to get back to the group to go to the Palace. We had one of the best moments of our entire trip sitting in the presence of this friendly Indian family, and had we not had to catch a train the following morning we would definitely be back there the next night for the party which they had invited us to.

On the way to the palace we had a stopover at one of the many hundreds of wells in the town. It was an incredible 46 meters deep and 100 metres long, a very impressive monument.
We met our local guide at the palace which has great views over the city. It's a really cool sort of place as it was used up until the 1950s and hasn't been restored since. There are miniature paintings covering the walls and the towers are all guarded by monkeys, however the most attractive part is it's unique architecture which is a mixture of Hindu and Muslim design.
From the palace we spent the evening walking through the old town and into the local market where all of the fresh fruit and vegetables from the local region is on sale. We made a stop at the shop selling the best chai in India, and we were able to watch him prepare the delicious concoction.

On the way back to the hotel we bought some fresh fruit and Indian sweets to share, and watched as the townspeople led their cows through the rows of stalls and collected their dinner ingredients.
Red and orange flames burned in the fire which we all huddled beside in the time leading up to dinner. After a big day of food Nina and I settled for a light lentil soup before heading to bed early in preparation for an early start.

The Middle of Nowhere

Picture this: a beautiful, very tranquil town beside a lake with cows roaming the countryside and birds swooping into the water. This is our 'campsite' (a very luxury one at that) somewhere in India where we are spending tonight.
The day started early as we waited for the train to bring us to Bassi. Unlike the last train, this time we were to travel on a local Indian train. I'll admit, I had preconceived ideas about what this train would be like, however it far exceeded my expectations in terms of comfort and space.

Sitting on the train I was admiring one woman who seemed to be wearing her entire collection of jewelry. Pradeep then informed me that this is exactly the case. He explained that the uneducated women in India spend all of their savings on real gold jewels because they don't understand the banking system and the notion of saving.
While perhaps it is not the most sensible way to live, it makes for a truly beautiful appearance as the stunning jewels contrast their lovely brown skin tones.

From the train station we had a very bumpy and exciting 4-wheel-drive experience to our luxury camping spot beside the lake. On our arrival we were greeted with drums and the traditional flower necklaces as we were then assigned our tent- a permanent structure with it's very own bathroom and balcony with deck chairs.
For lunch we had some dal and mixed vegetables, and while I have eaten many versions of these two dishes, the two we ate today had a nice country taste with some added herbs and flavour.

Feeling rather like a slob after so much eating and sitting in jeeps and trains, Krista and I set out on a long walk around the lake. It was a beautiful temperature and great chance to breath in the fresh air.
For the later hours of the afternoon I have been sitting by the side of the lake reading Emma and drinking homemade chai tea. It's been a tough day...

Bijapur

We were treated to luxury this morning as we consumed a yummy breakfast with a perfect view of the sun rising over the lake on the edge of our campsite.

We packed our things and then assembled in the jeeps for our morning village safari. With our local guide Monte, we stopped over at a small village and had a little tour of the buildings.

On visiting one family, we were welcomed inside their tiny home where we tried to imagine how four families and about 30 goats could live in such a confined space. The children were thrilled as Louise handed each of them a pen with the Australian flag design.

After driving for another few minutes we pulled over and had a walk around one of the farms. Onions, carrots, cabbage and turmeric are grown in the area, however it also has many crops of opium.
Monte explained to the group that to grow opium a farmer must obtain a license from the government, and once given permission that must then grow only a certain sized area of the crop.

The laws are apparently very strict, so if one farmer is expected to produce 15kg each year (which he must sell to the government) and he only grows 14kg for whatever reason, he must then purchase an extra kilogram of opium on the black market to reach his mark, otherwise his license will be withdrawn! Assumedly this is to prevent people from growing it for the wrong reasons, however it is fairly strict conditions considering crops are entirely weather dependent.

Another grand entrance awaited us as we arrived at the Castle Hotel with the drums and handcrafted flower necklaces. It is a beautiful old castle transformed into a hotel with a pool and many other facilities available. Considering most of our time has been spent in hostels, this really seemed like luxury.

Nina and I went for a quick walk through Bijapur, the tiny village just beside the castle, and met a friendly young girl, Chan. At 22 she is pregnant with her first child, lives with her family and supports them with her $2 per month salary. Impressed with her English skills, we asked where she learnt the language and she told us she learns it from a language book she borrows from a friend every week.

She presented us with a cute little bracelet, and on seeing that she only had minimal clothing for the winter, we gave her a jumper and a bit of money in the hope that she can look after her mother who lives at home and has been sick for over two years.

In the afternoon we relaxed by the pool reading our book and sipping on fresh lime juice and soda water.

Udaipur

I had a great two days in Udaipur, one of Rajasthan's cities of about 800,000 people.
The most exciting part of my time there was the boat ride. Despite the ridiculously slow speed at which we travelled, our one hour journey around the lake (that is actually man made) in Udaipur was spectacular. From the water we had an amazing view of the city and the Palace, and were able to get a closer look at the Lake Palace that floats in the middle of the water.
We had a tour from Pradeep of the palace (owned by the oldest royal family in the world) and it's many rooms, and there were some amazing mosaic designs that still remain hundreds of years after they were installed.

We made a quick stop on the way back from the palace at a little shop owned by a friend of Pradeep's selling miniature paintings. Apparently this city is known for these works, and while I wouldn't be interested in purchasing one, they were pretty amazing and seemingly require great skill.

Nina and I had had no trouble resisting the shops in India (often overwhelmingly filled with touristy junk) up until this point, however over the two days we both managed to purchase a few leather goods and presents for those back home.

Dinner on the second evening was a lot of fun. Pradeep, our extremely likable guide, hosted the evening providing us with a traditional Indian meal and taking the opportunity to introduce us to his two gorgeous sons, his wife and friends.
Despite it being the first place in a while where we had encountered lots of tourists, Udaipur was perhaps my favourite city we had seen so far.

Pushkar

Easily the most touristy city of our Indian adventure so far, Pushkar was an interesting and very religious place. It is the home of the only Brhama temple in the world and therefore attracts thousands of pilgrims from around the world. Like Udaipur, it centres around a man-made lake, however the one in Pushkar is a very religious place where many go to be blessed and bathe in the water. Our time in Pushkar was very short-lived, however we managed to fill up the time wandering around the city and visiting the different sites.

We spent our evening on a camel safari around the town and watched the sun set behind the surrounding moutains. In a country of many millions of people, the chances of running into a familiar face are fairly slim, however we were coincidently in the same city and hotel as Julia, a primary school friend. She joined us for our exploration of the city and for some delicious falafel and hummus plates and fruit salad.
It was a nice two days seeing another part of India and being able to see it in the presence of an old friend.

Delhi

Having spent the night on an overnight train, we spent our first morning back in Delhi freshening up. Thanks to the recommendation from Jaz, we then went for an afternoon outing with some of the other group to Hauz Khas, a more upmarket area in Delhi. Unfortunately, the fact that it was Sunday meant much of the area was closed however we did manage to sit down for a delicious lunch. As it was a fairly upmarket restaurant, Nina and I took teh chance to indulge in a fresh salad. As incredible as Indian food tastes, it can become very heavy when eating it day in and day out without the option of fresh vegetables. We then had a quick wander through the main village street where I spotted some great little Indian boutiques, before we had to head back to Karol Bagh.

The evening passed quickly as we sat in Kirsty and Hayley's room eating a selection of dried fruits and nuts and watched as they packed a ridiculous amount of shopping into their bags. Our final day in India was spent organising ourselves and packing, rather mundane tasks but necessary all the same. It has been an eye-opening two weeks that we have spent in India and it is sad to say goodbye, however the prospect of seeing friends and family in only a few hours makes it actually very exciting.

London: A Day-by-Day Recount.

2011-12-28T22:02:00.000-08:00

XVI.

Visited the Tate Modern this morning and viewed perhaps my favourite art exhibition of my entire trip so far, Gerhard Richter 'Panorama'. After a few hours admiring the amazing collection of works from his incredibly long art career I met Maryam for dinner. That evening we joined her British friends Tom, Emily, Polly, Isaac and Vicki for a night out in Notting Hill. A great band played for the earlier part of the evening followed by a few djs, after which we continued to enjoy the nights over a few bottles of wine.

XVII.

After spending most of the day re-organising my masses of stuff and moving to Maida Vale, I passed the last few hours of the day chatting to Claudia, the 18-year-old from Sydney. We had a great old time expressing our admiration for London and the fabulous accent, as well as our plans for the following year when we return to the real world.

XVIII.

Another beautiful sunny day greeted London this morning. A few hits of coffee and a big breakfast later I was out the door to visit Hampstead. With the sun on my back I had a relaxing few hours reading in Hampstead Heath. I dined in a cool little restaurant for lunch amongst some groovy art galleries and shops, and then returned to the Heath to make the most of the sun before it set for the afternoon. Maryam and her sister Safia met me at the train station and we had dinner together. The girls left for a concert and I returned home to prepare a gourmet meal and tune in to a few episodes of NCIS with Claudia.

XIX.

It was Saturday already! I was off to the Camden markets for a second visit. Through Regents Park I walked, observing the various sports in action and the masses of people who were likewise strolling through the fields. Arario again lured me into buying more of her great clothes and after lashing out on shopping I then treated myself to a delicious curry. A gingerbread man welcomed me back into the house that was the result of Lulu and Nina's many hours of cooking that day. Before bed that night I spent hours catching up on my diary and reading more of Emma.

XX.

Sunday I had made plans with Carly and Harry to go to Brick Lane Markets. After the two hour hike from Maida Vale I ended up exploring them alone as the others weren't feeling too well. I had my second fantastic coffee in London which significantly brightened my morning and things only improved as I was exposed to some interesting crafts and clothing. I ran into Simone and Aislinn which was a nice surprise, both girls locals of the area as of a few weeks. Pad Thai was my food of choice for lunch, and feeling rather full I went for another walk around the stalls. Lisa and Graeme returned from their weekend away in Belgium which we heard all about over some Thai from the local joint.

XXI.

Having so much enjoyed Hampstead the last time, I decided to combine another visit to the area with my trip to the Highgate Cemetery. I felt slightly creeped out as I wandered through the cemetery as the sky was a dark grey and I seemed to be the only live human in sight. Eager to get back to Highgate, I visited Karl Marx's grave and then found my way out. I revisited my favourite cafe in London for lunch for the second time and then was preoccupied in the post office for the afternoon. Graeme was organising another gourmet dinner that evening as the table was overloaded with a variety of Middle Eastern cuisine - hummus, felafel, tabouleh, marinated chicken and pita bread.

XXII.

As I began to count down the days I had left in London I wanted to make sure that I had visited everything I had initially intended to see. Today I was at the National Theatre to look around the Dazzle jewellery collection. In the afternoon I revisited Soho, one of my favourite suburbs in London, and had a coffee at a hidden joint Fernandez & Wells. I couldn't contain my excitement that evening as we dressed up in red and headed out to the stadium to watch Arsenal play Manchester City. After a quick detour through Islington to see Graeme's old house and to have a cider at one of the sporting pubs, we took our seats amongst the thousands of fans in red to watch the game. After a gruelling and at times frustrating few hours we left slightly disappointed as our team had been defeated by the blue shirts. To end the night in true British style we had a cup of tea and a warm chocolate pudding discussing the game stats.

XXIII.

Chelsea was one of the few suburbs I was yet to visit and so I decided to do so. After an hour and a half walk through Hyde Park I found myself at the Saatchi Gallery which was hosting an exhibition of German artists. I had lunch at a sushi bar in Chelsea and found myself comparing it to the wealth and atmosphere like that of Double Bay in Sydney. Despite the fact that I believe fish and chips should be classified as Australian, I was forced to try the British version that night for dinner. While they were tasty, the vinegar that is typically added to chips in the UK is not as good as the plain salty flavour of those that one finds in all of the beachside towns in Aus.

XXIV.

Simone, Aislinn and I met in Brick Lane at lunchtime for a coffee and piece of banana bread whilst I heard all of the girls' stories about the struggles of living in London. On the way back to Liverpool Station I stopped to admire some shipping containers that have been turned into niche shops. At 6pm Chris and I met Jane and James at An exhibition of free trade products from Nepal in an art gallery in the city. We finished the night in the People's Supermarket for the launch of a new beer and some free snacks for the many visitors that showed up to the event.

XXV.

The day had finally arrived, it was, already, my last day in the fantastic London. I had a quick look at Abbey Road on my way into the city that day and watched as the tourists tried to re-enact the famous crossing photo. There was a great atmosphere as I arrived at Covent Garden as it was decorated with Christmas trees and lights, and was also hosting a big Christmas markets for the hundreds of people who were shopping in the area. To avoid the crowds Maryam and I slipped into a little authentic Italian cafe and had an afternoon snack. We passed the next few hours catching up on the past few nights and exploring the nearby streets before it was the time to farewell each other. For my final night in London I had a great time hanging out with little Lulu and Nina, and packing the last few things into my backpack for India the following morning.

The past month I'd had in London had certainly been one of the best of my life, however I was excited to reunite with my trusty travel partner to explore the sights of India.

London: A Day-by-Day Recount

2011-12-19T00:46:00.000-08:00

XI.

This morning I was very excited as it was the opening of the RCA Secret Show. I caught the tube over to Kensington, grabbed a coffee and headed to the exhibition. It was a show with 2500 postcard-sized artworks by students of the Royal College of Art and also some by famous artists like Tracey Emin and Yoko Ono, the interesting thing being that they were all painted anonymously so one had to try and pick which artwork belonged to who. After a few absorbing hours in the gallery I met Carly and Daini for some sushi in Southbank. We walked along the Christmas markets and then went back to Joe's for another evening of some drinks on the roof in good company. A few hours later Simone and Aislinn turned up and we strolled around King's Cross before I headed back to Homerton.

XII.

Having not explored the whole of the Portobello Markets on the first occasion, I decided it was worth another visit. Again I was tempted by some great clothes and jewelry, however I managed to resist and was happy to just admire instead. For lunch I dined alone in a French restaurant, Goode & Wright, and had a sensational meal and enjoyed the ways of the beautiful, gay, French waiter. As I'd promised to my parents I would visit their old abode, I walked to Kensington that afternoon and had a look at 30 Elsham Road.
In typical London style I went to the local pub (the Elderfield) that evening and drank cider with Chris and his crazy but extremely likable Irish friends, James and Jane.

XIII.

I was woken up by a delicious coffee from Remy at the local Chatswood Road market. From Homerton I took the tube to Maida Vale and met Lisa, Graeme, Lulu, Nina and their Australian cousin Claudia who I would be spending the next few weeks with. We drank tea, ate some birthday cake and had a very enjoyable evening reminiscing on the days they lived in Sydney and the times had with the Wolffs. We sat around the table for hours as Graeme, the house-dad, cooked us dinner and served us generous amounts of wine to make the evening even more enjoyable.

XIV.

Having spent many days in the past at the cricket with dad, I felt it necessary to visit Lords and have a look at the greatest cricket oval in the world. I then spent a few hours reading by the lake in Regents Park, and later Hyde Park. I found a very cute lunch spot on the edge of Kensington, Le Petit Cafe, and the woman made me a delicious plate of mixed salads and an espresso to finish off the meal. Though it may sound dull, I am a serious sock fanatic and in Kensington that afternoon I found a great Japanese sock shop where I bought some colourful new items for my drawer!

XV.

From Maida Vale that morning I walked the 10km to the Tower of London and spent the day exploring the tourist hotspot. The crown jewels found in glass cabinets inside the tower were the most interesting part of the whole experience. It became quite creepy as the clouds came over and the ravens were flying around the old buildings where once upon a time many criminals were held and later hung. Tired from my walk I went back home in the early afternoon and read Emma. Claudia and I tuned in to some exciting episodes of NCIS that evening and indulged in some mouthwatering minstrels (a bigger, tastier versions of smarties)!

London: A Day-by-Day Recount

2011-12-19T00:15:00.000-08:00

A very enjoyable, relaxing morning drinking tea and reading the Saturday papers. After spending the morning at home we met up with Kate, a friend of Chris', and together caught one of the famous big red buses to the Borough Markets. It was truly the hotspot for gourmet food and vegetables. There was a great atmosphere in the surrounding bars filled to the brim with Londoners. Everyone was there for the same purpose...to share some drinks with friends beside the Thames. After socialising over a few bottles of white wine and some lovely cheese, we ended the outing with a beautiful walk over the bridge admiring the illuminated city.

VI.

Who says the sun rarely shines in London...
At the sight of the sun for the umpteenth time that week I decided it was the perfect day to head to the Camden Markets.
Apart from the fabulous range of clothing and antiques, I was transfixed by the waft of aromas of the different foods in the stalls.
Arario, a cute Korean designer, entertained me for the next half hour while I tried on almost her entire collection and left with two large bags under my arms. Her clothes were so funky that I ended up with a coat, long blue skirt, furry jumper, leather skirt and a pair of cool green socks.
After some serious thought on the matter, I eventually decided on a curry which I enjoyed by the river with the sun beating down on my back.
After circling the market once more I went to Regents Park and watched the local teams play soccer for a while.
Back at home that night Chris and I shared a bottle of red and discussed family, friends and the beauties of home.

VII.

Today I was in serious need of some culture, and so I caught the tube to Somerset House on the Strand.
'The Spanish Line', an exhibition of drawings from a variety of Spanish artists, was being shown in the gallery. Despite the fact it had works by Picasso and a few other big names, compared to some of the recent exhibitions I'd visited I didn't think much of it.
I dined in the gallery cafe for lunch and had a delicious poached chicken, cous cous, orange, rocket and pomegranate salad washed down with a coffee.
I had a great time viewing the Dazed & Confused exhibition being exhibited in another gallery at Somerset. It had a fantastic collection of fashion photos from the twenty years of the magazine's production including some fantastic shots of Kate Moss.
The final cultural installments for the day were the Pipilotti Rist and George Condo shows at the Hayward Gallery; the former incredibly interesting, the latter rather boring.
The London eye was alight as was the rest of the city, so I had a mindless stroll along the Thames and into the city.

VIII.
Finally some familiar faces! In Shoreditch that morning I met Carly and Harry for a coffee and big catch up. After the caffeine hit we walked to Angel, grabbed a quick burrito and met another visitor to London, Joe, and together we booked tickets for the screening of Rum Diaries.
We had a great evening...the four of us bought some drinks and climbed onto Joe's roof to watch the happenings of the city. We were turn joined by Luke, and as Joe was heading to Berlin that week we discussed the things that must be seen and done in one of my favourite European cities.
At 9pm I was greeted by another very friendly face, Maryam. We had a fun few hours in her college dorm reminiscing about our times with everyone in Bolivia. At midnight we met her friends and went to a nearby pub, Rocket, and passed the evening drinking with some other British lads.

IX.

I said goodbye to Maryam as she headed off to her law lecture that morning and made my way to Holborn for a coffee & catch up with Guy, an old friend of mum and dad. We had a quick chat after which I went back to Somerset House to meet Carly and have another peek at Dazed & Confused. We had a pleasant cup of tea outside by the Thames and I then went to the National Potrait Gallery for the Taylor Wessing Portrait Prize. The entrants were phenomenal, and had it not been for the gallery having to close I could have spent many hours more studying the subjects and camera techniques.

Shoreditch is the place to be (or so I've heard) in London these days. For the morning I wandered through the shops and bought a wicked chunky ring from A142. I headed to Ruby's cafe where I sat for a healthy lunch and had a giggle to myself as I listened to the couple beside me discuss their punishing techniques for their child. My afternoon was comparably boring as I had to get back to the Visa Application Centre to pick up my passport, however on the way I walked past Buckingham Palace and admired it's beauty in the low lighting. My trip to the Application Centre did mean one marvelous thing...I am now definitely heading to the land of curries, spices and traffic jams.

Birmingham, Bath & Bon Iver.

2011-12-13T03:10:00.001-08:00

Bon Iver has been a mutual love of both Bel and I for many years. We could not believe that we were about to see them, and that we could do so together.

After a quick dinner and a few drinks we went to the O2 arena and filed inside to the stage. The concert was insane, the room was fairly small and consequently intimate, and the music was perhaps the best live music I have heard. Skinny love, Stacks, Calgary, Blood Bank and many other of their songs were played and to finish the evening, a beautiful encore of Wolves which left the audience screaming.

That was the end to our night and our time in Birmingham as the following day we were on the bus to Bath.

The first thing that struck me when I stepped off the bus into this old Roman town was it's gorgeous architecture and accompanying gardens. It is no wonder that Bath Spa itself is listed as a World Heritage Site.
Having dropped our bags at St Christopher's, we were feeling the need to wander around as we had only one full day.
Aside from the little town centre, we visited the old bridge with a great map shop and what is known as the Royal Crescent, an arch of land with some of the most expensive housing in Britain.

Having rarely dined out on my trip, it was a very enjoyable evening spent at Adventure restaurant with a glass of red wine and Caesar salad. It was also timed well as Bel was eager for a distraction as her boyfriend had flown home two days before.

The following day I hunted down a good coffee at Jacob's cafe. We then joined a free walking tour which gave some incredible history of Bath. It was apparently once the social hub of the surrounding lands as women brought their daughters to find for them a suitable husband.

The water in the famous Roman Baths situated in the centre of town contain 45 different minerals and are at temperatures of 43, 45 and 49 degrees celsius.

The tour took us to a few different sites and finished at the fashion museum which had some spectacular chandeliers worth loads of money.

The air temperature was cool and so we took shelter in the Jazz Cafe for some carrot, tomato and zucchini soup. Time had crept up on us and after another short wander around the city it was time to get the bus back to London. It was a nice twenty-four hours in Bath, however I would like to return to visit some of the beautiful countryside that surrounds the village.

London: A Day-by-Day Recount

2011-12-05T02:52:00.001-08:00

I.

Woke up to a good ol' cup of English breakfast tea (how appropriate). Spent the day in the Portobello markets admiring the masses of antiques and the delicious international cuisine stalls. My first taste of the famous London overcast weather, although not enough to drive me insane.

Walking through the markets and around Notting Hill, I observed the great fashion in the many Londoners out for a Saturday stroll. Fell in love (over and over) with the British accent... Lots of 'how can I help ya, darlin' and 'you right there, love?'.

After indulging in a delightful Indian curry voted as Time Out's 'top street food picks' I spent time in a British/Korean fashion designers shop discussing the gorgeous fabrics he sources from Italy... Ok and obviously that meant I had to buy something (a beautiful black wool dress).
Finished the visit with a carrot, apple and ginger juice and a quick peek at the famous Travel Bookshop (unfortunately without the appearance of Hugh or Julia).

As the sun set at 4pm I had a quick stroll through Shepherd's Gate admiring the autumn leaves and enormous manor houses.
As it was the 5th November (Guy Fawkes Night), we spent the evening with the neighbours sipping mould wine and setting off fireworks in the nearby marshes.

II.

The morning began in a store where both the wealthy and the tourists flock, where the Christmas decorations are extensive both inside and out and where one can find anything from gourmet foods to designer dog biscuits. It could be only one place... Harrods.
After exploring each of the different floors of the department store I surprisingly left empty-handed.

For the next few hours I visited the fantastic new exhibition in the Victoria & Albert Museum. 'Power of Making' celebrated the twenty-first century techniques of a number of artists, scientists and everyday people. I was most impressed by the dress made from 100,000 dressmaker pins and the giant gorilla constructed only of coat-hangars, as well as the fantastic Armadillo shoes by the late Alexander McQueen.

Red wine and good company was awaiting me at home, and Chris and I spent the evening frightening his Swedish friend Pierre with the many dangerous species found in Australia.

III.

Monday morning was spent viewing works by Manet, Monet and Van Gogh at the National Gallery. I also took a few minutes to watch the constant action in Trafalgar Square before heading to Regent Street and Oxford Street to see what all of the fuss was about.
More interestingly, however, I stumbled upon the back alleys of Soho with great shops and a groovy crowd.

Among the thousands of spots to eat I spotted Nordic Bakery (the cafe famous for it's cinnamon scrolls & the very place my dear friend Maddy waitressed in) and had a little peek inside. Oxford Street was more appealing a few hours later as the extensive Christmas lights were now greatly contrasted by the dark sky.
James and Jane, the two Irish folk from two doors down, came around and shared drinks for the most part of the night.

IV.

After a few hours at the Embassy sorting out my visa application for India, I walked to the Tate Britain.

The current exhibitions weren't overly interesting, rather the most fascinating works were in fact old newspaper articles reporting on the ridiculous behaviour of Mick Jagger and the other Stones.
The stories were accompanied by some fantastic photos of Jagger wearing a very smug expression whilst clearly in an unlawful situation, totally indifferent towards the surrounding commotion.

To adhere to the true British style, I visited a little cafe and ate a chicken and salad sandwich for lunch. It seems sandwiches are at the heart of the London culture... one can't go further than 100m in the city without passing a sandwich shop. Every second businessmen can be spotted munching on a turkey and cranberry delight.

At the bus station I was very excitedly met by Bel as we headed off to Birmingham for one very special occasion. In the evening, having just arrived in Birmingham, we chatted for hours in the common room of the hostel before enjoying a few great episodes of Friends.

Istanbul

2011-11-30T11:23:00.001-08:00

We were all very excited to be back in Istanbul to be able to explore the city for a further few days.

On Tuesday we spent the entire day just wandering around getting lost in the backstreets. As it started to rain we took cover in the only place in all of Istanbul that served falafels. For some reason we had imagined before arriving in Turkey that falafel and hummus would be everywhere, but we were shocked to find this was not the case. What we did find was millions of kebabs, Turkish delight and freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.

We spent the evening chatting with Reece, another Australian who was heading to Kenya for a month to live with his mum, and the other hostel guests.

The second of November signalled a time for celebration as it was Neen's 19th birthday. As she was avoiding sugar I presented her with a healthy birthday cake (a pomegranate) and the promise of a moleskin for her present (which was requested by the woman herself).

For her birthday Nina decided we should all indulge in a day at the Turkish baths, and I was not going to protest. It was definitely a rewarding experience that required an open mind and no room for embarrassment.

For the next hour we sat in an old stone room naked whilst we were scrubbed by huge, naked Turkish women. One by one we each had to do the walk of shame to the centre table where the woman scrubbed us free of dead skin and we were left feeling like new women! After a quick wash of the hair we then spent some time in the sauna and after one final wash, we were ready to leave. Feeling very relaxed we returned to the hostel and cooked a soup from the fresh vegetables we bought from a little market we discovered on the way home.

That night we went to a restaurant close to our hostel and had a rather gourmet meal to celebrate the occasion.

Our final morning in Istanbul we went to the Basilica Cistern, (also known as Underground Palace), an amazing structure that is one of many hundreds of underground cathedrals in the city. There is an eerie feeling as one descends into beneath... the lighting is very dim and there is a dark layer of water a few metres below with fish in it.

We then went film camera hunting and found a great shop run by a Turkish man who spoke not a word of English. He had hundreds of great old cameras that we each tested for over two hours before Nina and I both bought one. I hoped it would be a project for me to improve my photography skills while I had a month in London.

That evening was spent packing and organising ourselves for an early flight the following morning. It would be a sad end to a terrific stay in Turkey, with a definite promise of returning to see more of the country.

Touring the Turkish Countryside

2011-11-30T11:16:00.001-08:00

Cappadocia (meaning 'land of the beautiful horses) is the name given to an area frequented regularly by tourists due to it's collection of amazing 'fairy houses' and caves that are dotted all over the landscape.

We were relieved to arrive after a grueling twelve hour ride having been prevented from sleeping due to the regular stopping of the coach.

It was a spectacular entrance to Goreme as the bus wound down the hill, and as it was the morning, we watched the hot air balloons rising above the horizon with the sunrise in the background.

Having dropped our stuff at the Star Cave Hostel we then departed on our first tour. Over the following few hours we were shown various different sites in the area including the Uchisar Fortress, the Pasabaglari (Monk) Valley, the Derrent (Imagination) Valley and the Carusia Village to observe the unusual caves and fairy chimneys and hear about their history. We visited the Goreme Open Air Museum where we viewed churches that date back to the 7th century. The part I found most interesting was the fact that on the murals that lined the interior walls of the churches, all of the eyes of the Christian figures had been scratched out due to the hostility between the two religions.

The last few hours of the day were spent observing local men and women making pottery at the Aranos Handicraft Centre and tasting a few local wines produced in the region.

For dinner we sought out a warm spot to escape the freezing cold wind that had worsened as the evening wore on and the sun had long disappeared. Amazingly, we stumbled upon a place that was serving sausage rolls, meat pies and most shockingly, VEGEMITE on toast! This is in a village of about 200 permanent residents in the middle of Turkey! Curious as to how they sourced the Vegemite, we questioned the waiter who explained he has a friend that goes to Australia annually and brings him back five jars each time. I can only imagine it the restaurant would be a welcoming shock by many other Australian tourists passing through the village.

Pigeon Valley was the first stop on the tour the next day. We drove to a lookout with a panoramic view of the valley where we saw the creative little houses built into the caves for the pigeons. Unlike everywhere else in the world where pigeons are despised, they are held in high esteem by the locals of Cappadoccia. They were often used as messengers, their droppings make for a perfect fertiliser and they can also be eaten if food is scarce and the people desperate.

We then had a very beautiful walk along the bottom of the Ilhara Valley where we followed the winding river and observed the cliffs that stood on either side of the path. After 8km we arrived at a local restaurant serving some delicious vegetables and amazing Turkish bread (of which I could only imagine Tom's jealousy) for lunch.

After a quick visit to an old monastery in the afternoon we were then back on an overnight bus to Pamukkale.

Pamukkale defines the World Heritage site that contains the spectacular water travertines, terraces of carbonate minerals.

The very picturesque travertines are on the side of a mountain on the edge of the town. From a distance they can be mistaken for a snowy mountain due to their stark white colour. Overflowing with warm water these pools were once used for bathing, however sadly many have dried up and now there is a big effort to protect those that remain.

After wandering bare foot through the water to the top of the pools, we had a look through the ruins of the city that was once situated behind the travertines. Nina then spotted a little turtle which seemed rather out of place and that I endeavoured to save, only to have it wee on me.

We then went back to the hostel and had a delicious lunch made up of all different foods we had taken from the buffet breakfast. As the tour cost more than we had budgeted for Turkey, we made up for it by living on a mandarin and bread diet for the five days we were away.

That afternoon we had a beautiful drive through the country where we were able to observe the people going about their farming without the disturbance of tourists. We arrived that evening in Selcuk, the town closest to Ephesus where we would spend the following day exploring.

Ephesus is a 2300-year-old ancient city that was once Roman and was apparently visited by both Mary and St John. We had a little tour through the city and saw the very much intact remains of ancient buildings such as the library and ampitheatre which has since been used to host concerts of U2, Pavarotti and many other famous musicians.

After a few hours in the city we were then taken to a restaurant for a huge buffet lunch filled with different Turkish delicacies. As we had been living off next to nothing over the past few days, we definitely made the most of the fact that it was a buffet and second and third rounds were welcome!

We had a hilarious half hour after lunch where we were unexpectedly taken to a leather warehouse and forced to watch it's very own runway show. The whole group was taken to the gift shop, however after no one showed any signs of wanting to purchase anything, we were soon rushed out again.

We had a quick visit to the supposed 'House of Mary' where she apparently lived for part of her life and then got back in the bus and drove to the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven (and one of two in Turkey) Ancient Wonders of the World.

Despite it being labelled a Temple, these days it is a rather sad site as it appears more like a rectangular piece of grass with a few big pieces of stone on it. There is one column that stands on the grass, however it is not an original and was reconstructed to be almost the height of those that once comprised those of the Temple. Almost all parts of the temple were stolen and taken to Istanbul to build the Aya Sofya and to the British Museum where they remain to this day.

The last stop for the day was at a local Turkish carpet factory. It was the most fascinating stop of the whole day as we were able to watch two women use incredible skill to weave the wool and silk into carpets. They continue to use ancient techniques that take them about 4 months to produce just one carpet.
The silk is extracted from the silkworms and the dead worms are then sold to major factories and used in the production of facial moisturisers.

We had a few hours to kill in Selcuk before we were to get on a bus back to Istanbul and so we visited a local fruit stall and stocked up on delicious fresh produce. This put an end to our five day tour and we were off to Istanbul to enjoy another three days in the city.

Istanbul

2011-11-30T10:52:00.001-08:00

With a population of over 13 million people, Istanbul is by far Turkey's biggest city. Immediately upon arriving in Istanbul, Simone, Nina and I were overwhelmed at both the sheer size of the city and the masses of people within it.

After finding Simone at the airport we hailed a cab to take us to the hostel. We were then lucky enough to be introduced to the Turkish way of driving: the sort of ride that makes one hold on for dear life and even consider the possibility of making an escape out of the moving vehicle.

After checking in to our hostel which was located in the heart of Saltanahmet, we headed in to the cold evening in search of something to eat.
We came across a great place where we enjoyed some soup and a mezze platter with seats perfectly positioned by the fire. It was during this meal that I realised two things: Firstly, Turkey was a lot colder than the forecast had predicted and that I had subsequently expected, and also that the Turkish people were perhaps some of the friendliest I'd met on my entire journey across the world.

The following morning we were introduced to the typical Turkish breakfast consisting of a hard-boiled egg, tomato, cucumber, dried olives, feta cheese and bread. Initially I found the flavours a bit strong for so early in the day, however after leaving Turkey I found myself missing the strong salty taste of the olives and the uniqueness of the meal.

After breakfast we headed to one of Istanbul's most iconic destinations, the Grand Bazaar. It was an enormous complex filled with rows upon rows of stalls selling everything from leather goods to jewelry and carpets. For the entire duration of our visit to the market we were not only repetitively hassled about buying these things, but were also subject to many offers to become the girlfriends of the different shop owners.

As we were in Turkey we felt it necessary to taste some real Turkish delight, so we found a cute little cafe where we were greeted with 'Aussie Aussie Aussie, Oi Oi Oi' and got a variety of sweets to share. Accompanied by a cup of apple tea, we had some delicious Turkish delicacies including some authentic baklava. On our way out of the shop the owner convinced us to go behind the counter and have photos taken with the staff, arming us with different kitchen utensils. Once the moment was captured on all three cameras we headed to the spice bazaar.

Spices, nuts, dried fruits, fresh tea varieties and Turkish sweets are displayed in every shop inside the Spice Bazaar. Upon entering one is met with an aroma of different spices and teas mixing together to create a strong scent that dominates the air.

Excited by the range of fresh teas available we each purchased a few varieties, I settled on some real Turkish apple tea, some 'love' tea, green tea and tea designed to boost the immune system. During the half hour we were inside we experienced a number of unusual incidents including a blackout, leaving the entire hall in total darkness, and further claims that we were a certain gentleman's wives.

For the afternoon we had a look inside the New and the Old Mosques, both located on the edge of the river and frequented daily by many Muslims. One thing I learnt (that I guess is not overly unusual considering it is a Muslim country) was that inside the Mosque women are separated from the men and are confined to smaller sections located in the back.

After a small dinner we made some final plans for our five-day trip which was to begin the following day and which was designed to explore some of the Turkish countryside.

Taksim is a district of Istanbul with it's famous 'Independence Avenue'. Considered to be the most European street in the whole city, it is a long stretch of the typical clothing chains and fast food restaurants. It was the smaller lanes off the main drag that were most fascinating...authentic Turkish restaurants and great little stalls selling pomegranate juice. Perhaps the reason this part of the city has developed into being more European is the fact that it is on the other side of the river that divides Istanbul and is much higher with great views of the city below.

We wandered down from Taksim through a great old part of the city with old record shops and men selling fresh tobacco in big bags. Crossing the bridge it was a great day to observe the hundreds of fisherman lined along the bridge, all seemingly lucky with securing a catch.

That afternoon we got on an overnight bus which would take us to Goreme, a very small village located in Cappadocia.

A Little Taste of the Spanish Countryside

2011-11-26T13:41:00.001-08:00

My second week in Barcelona I would describe as being more touristy than the first, as we decided to visit the famous sites around the city.

After a nice first evening with Betta and the rest of the family, we woke up the following morning and took the train to the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's most famous building.

As we were forced to wait in the line for the good part of an hour, it gave us a good chance to admire all angles of the exterior of this unusual building. As Gaudi died before he was able to finish his masterpiece, even today construction is underway to finish the remainder of the structure.

The iconic design of this cathedral is also evident on the inside. The most fascinating parts of the internal structure are the staircases that stretch from the floor to the roof and have an incredible, uneven, spiral shape.

Over the following few days we also visited Park Guell, the monstrous park with great views over the whole of Barcelona, and The Fundacion Joan Miro, a great museum filled with hundreds of Miro's works from his early painting to his most recent works.

Having had a great few days being a tourist in Barcelona, we were again ready to explore another side of Spain. Hans proposed to us a fabulous idea to head to the Spanish coast for an overnight road trip in his little camper van, to which we excitedly accepted.

Early on Saturday morning we all jumped in the van and together the three of us drove to Figueres. After a few hours driving and an interesting encounter with a hitchhiker who spoke a language somewhere between French, Italian and Spanish, we arrived in the traditional Spanish town. After a coffee and boccadillo at a local cafe we went to the Salvador Dali museum. For a few hours we admired the unusual and, in some cases, rather strange works produced by this interesting man.

From Figueres we drove another hour or so to a little coastal town called Cadaques. From the top of the hill there was an unobstructed view of the town and it's iconic houses all painted white with fabulous blue doors... it gave me the feeling I was somewhere in The Greek Islands.

We had a brisk walk around the bay (as by this stage of the afternoon it was freezing) which was quite deserted due to the fact that summer had ended months ago and as a result it was only the locals who remained in the village. We had some tapas and a drink at one of the cafes nested on the edge of the town with spectacular views across the bay before we got back in the car and drove to L'Escala.

That evening we had a fantastic long walk from L'Escala to a few nearby seaside towns as the sun disappeared and Nina and Hans reminisced about their many holidays at this part of the Spanish coast. After Hans picked up some of 'Spain's best anchovies' from a little old lady in her shop in one of the back lanes, we headed back to L'Escala to have some dinner. On the way we observed kids making a bonfire and together we then shared a little bundle of roasted chestnuts that a local man was cooking on a fire on the beach.

When I felt like I was almost going to burst from the amount of food we'd had, we parked the van next to the fantastic Hotel Empuries and 'set up camp'.

It was a magical way to wake up the following morning... With a view of the sun rising over the ocean which was only about 20 steps away from the door of the van. Hans went for a swim and we then had a croissant and coffee on the balcony of the hotel.

Satisfied with breakfast we got back in the van and drove to the Far de San Sebastian... A beautiful old lighthouse positioned on the corner of a cliff with fantastic views of the entire coastline. Hans pointed out to us where he had been sailing only a week or so prior to that moment when he was undertaking his sailing course. We had our second coffee at the cafe that was part of an old hotel that sat on the top of the hill.

Having been invited to lunch by Hans' friend and his daughter, we bought some wine and biscuits but before arriving at their house had a quick stopover in La Fosca. Nina was very excited to see the beach where she had spent so many long summers and how it hadn't changed since.

We had a delicious lunch in the garden of Nani's house before we headed back to Barcelona as Hans needed to be back at the boat to continue working. Nina and I were also due back as we were leaving in two days and still had to pack our bags and organise everything.

We left Hans and it was a sad departure for the two of them as it would be at least eight months until they would meet again.

Later that night we met up with Simone and Bevan and went out for some drinks at a cosy little bar that was promoting '2 for 1' for girls all evening. After a few cocktails we then migrated to one of the clubs nearby and had a great few hours dancing before leaving to sit outside with the two boys we had befriended. At about 6am as the rain had decided to ruin the beautiful morning we went back to Betta's and subsequently to bed.

Monday morning was set aside for preparations for Turkey and organising my packages to send home, however after that we were free to enjoy the final few hours in the city. We met Simone and Riley at a local vegan joint where we ate a delicious vegan burger and shared some delightful cakes- one carrot, one pistachio and raspberry and the last chocolate and coffee.

Simone then took us on a shopping adventure as she was hunting down a coat so she could cope with the cold temperatures we were about to face in Turkey. Funnily enough we returned to the burger place for dinner where I had a delicious seitan burger.

As we were not tired, and since Nina and I had long ago decided to have an 'all- nighter' at least once on a trip, we felt that our final evening in Barcelona presented the perfect opportunity. As we had to leave for the airport at 5am and had got into bed at 7am the previous morning, it didn't seem like such a big deal. In fact the hours passed very quickly as we did much the same as the previous night, and as we said goodbye to Simone knowing we would meet up in Istanbul later that day we got the bus to the airport.

It was a strange feeling leaving Spain as it really felt like a big chunk of our trip had ended, however I couldn't wait to see what adventures we would now have in Turkey.

A Home Away From Home

2011-11-20T03:31:00.000-08:00

There was a chilling wind blowing as we walked the half hour from the train station to our hostel in the Spanish coastal town of San Sebastian. I was overwhelmed with happiness as we neared closer to the town centre and was able to take in the strong, salty smell of the ocean. Despite the chill outside we were welcomed with immediate warmth when we arrived on the doorstep of Urban House, and both Nina and I took an instant liking to the place.

Initially we had thought that two days would be sufficient in San Sebastian for our much anticipated ocean swim and to explore the city, however each day we pushed back our departure date leaving only when our eurail pass was to expire. It wasn't only the place itself that seemed attractive, but also the coincidental appearance of Riley, who we knew from primary school, and Simone, who we recognized from our drama days together.

Our first day in San Seb the clouds had clearly set in for the day and consequently the beach didn't seem overly appealing so instead we explored all four corners of the surrounding town. In the afternoon we had a peaceful few hours on the beach with our iPod and books. As Simone and Riley had already been in San Seb for two weeks, they knew the great places to go out in the evenings. Atari, an atmospheric little bar in the heart of the old town was where we we taken the first evening and, not surprisingly, each one after that. It didn't matter what time of the day or which day of the week, Atari was famous for being busy and maintaining a very traditional Basque feel.

We stood at the bar and had our first taste of the iconic Basque cider and pintxos (similar to tapas but generally with a bread base). It was also our first taste of the most amazing patatas bravas, which we then found out were only temporarily available as they are apparently very un-Basque. A truly devastating discovery for all of us.

From Atari we made our way to Zabibo, the local club similar to Atari in that it never ceases to have a crowd. After some drinks and dancing in the club we made our way home in the early evening and drifted into a deep sleep to the sound of Marcus playing his guitar.

The following few days we passed with similar movements... Simone, Riley, Nina, Bevan and whoever else we had befriended the night before made our way to the beach to lie in the sun and watch the surfers in the waves. We were often confronted by some fairly graphic scenes as the Spanish locals proudly strutted around the beach stark naked. Ryan, Pete, Kez and the rest of us then went to the edge of the pier to the sunset spot. It was a place frequented by all of the locals who discovered that it was the perfect place to watch the sun set over the ocean without the obstruction of the mountain.

After some communication via the old facey, I was shocked to discover that I was also staying in the same hostel as Bel, another good friend from home. I couldn't hold back the excitement to see another familiar face, and one whom I hadn't seen for almost a year. As she had arrived late the previous evening we made plans to meet for some dinner that night at Atari. We had an exciting few hours together where Nina and I heard all about their relaxing time on the coast of Portugal and we likewise shared our travels to date. As they were leaving the following day for the amazing coastal town of Biarritz, we said goodbye, however it would be not long before I would be meeting up again with Bel in the UK.

The next night we went on a pub crawl organized by Bevan and Kez (and therefore very low key), however as it was a Tuesday many of the pubs we visited were empty apart from the ten or so hostel guests.

Glad to mix up our nightly routine, the next night we took a taxi to the Cider House fifteen minutes from town where for €28 euros one can have a four course meal and unlimited cider. It was quite an interesting place with over twenty vats of different cider varieties, however to be honest I struggled to taste the difference between many of them. To finish the night, Marcus, Simone, Riley, Bevan, Eloise and I sat in the cute little park just below the hostel and made plans for Simone to join us on our trip to Turkey. The following day we were on the bus to Bilbao to check out the Guggenheim. An edifice of architectural wonder, it has an incredibly unique design as well as an impressive selection of art in the collection. I was fascinated not so much by the temporary exhibitions on display at the Museum but by some of the permanent installations on the ground floor.

The hours passed quickly in the Guggenheim and as the afternoon continued we caught the tram into the old district to hunt down some food. We settled for a salad and some patatas bravas, and were predictably disappointed by the quality compared to those at Atari that melt in the mouth.

A brilliant plan was devised the next afternoon to embark on a pintxos crawl through the streets of San Sebastian. At 9pm we set out to out first destination, Bardi Berri. We were all smiling as we indulged in their house special, the mushroom risotto, however it was the cheese risotto that we sampled after that was the most tasteful.Our next stop was aesthetically a rather sad looking bar. However by this stage of our trip Nina and I had learnt not to judge a place by it's exterior, and not surprisingly it was in this rundown place that we had some exquisite garlic mushrooms and patatas bravas.

Having overestimated the capacity of our stomachs, by this stage we were feeling rather full and so made a joint decision to head to Atari for some cider to aid with digestion and some more pintxos for anyone who still had an appetite. Christine, our new friend from America tried the beef cheek, a specialty of Atari that Nina and I had tried on our first night.
The night ended much the same, everyone migrated to Zabibo before returning to the hostel.

Our second last day in San Sebastian was spent on the beach, and to treat ourselves further we had lunch out at a local vegan restaurant which Simone (being the vegan) had discovered. We arrived at 2:30pm to be told that they were booked out for the entire afternoon (well until 3:30 which was when the kitchen closed).Overcome with devastation we sat silently for a moment... After a minute or so we devised a great plan; to sit out on the front step in the hope that at some stage over the next hour or so a table would become available.

For the next hour we sat nervously waiting, analysing each group that entered or exited from the tiny cafe.

At 3:20 after each taking turns lingering in front of the door making sure we were seen by the waitresses we were finally given a table. The food was well worth the wait, I was treated to a delicious pumpkin and pistachio soup followed by an interesting vegan lasagna. Feeling rather full we then returned to the beach in Spanish style for a little siesta.That evening a big group of Danish hitchhikers arrived. After meeting them we learnt that they had just finished a hitchhiking race from their home (in Denmark) to San Sebastian, an incredible 1500km.We were both feeling rather glum in the morning as our fate was sealed and we had to leave, however we did enjoy a beautiful swim in the rough ocean and a few hours of sunbaking as a farewell. We also took the funicular up to the top of the hill for a great view of the two iconic bays and the wider ocean. For the lucky people who can afford it, there is a hotel that sits on the highest point of the mountain on the edge of a childrens theme park that must have some pretty special views.From the train window I watched the sun set over the Basque country of which we had so quickly warmed to, all the while accepting I'd have to return on my next trip to Spain.

Twenty Four Hours in Torino

2011-11-15T02:37:00.000-08:00

We could not help but let out a huge sigh of relief when we stepped off the train in Torino after a disastrous train ride from Budapest.

Every hour for the entire length of the journey we were shaken awake by different border security guards and customs officials who scrutinized our passports and interrogated us with questions.

On the other hand I was glad as the train did not travel directly to Torino and we had to change trains in Venice, allowing me to have a quick glimpse of floating city and have a wander through the all too familiar streets beside the Grand Canal, and to five Nina a quick five minute tour.

Moments after arriving at the station we were met by Martina whom I had come to visit. We accompanied her to the familiar apartment where I enjoyed a lovely reunion with the rest of the Pistis'... Matteo, Rosella, Stefano, Nonna and the other relatives.

That evening Nina was able to finally experience the beautiful Italian cooking which I had spoken about so often. Rosella prepared a delicious range of dishes including salads, vegetables and a number of meats and cheeses.

The following day we slept into the late hours of the morning due to the lack of sleep the previous night. After organising our train to Barcelona we shared lunch with the family and then had a little outing to pick up Martina from school and have a delicious gelato.

Unfortunately my stay in Torino was short lived due to restrictive train timetables. However it was enough time to catch up with the latest happenings of the family and to share my travel experiences which they were very interested to know about.

Later that evening we were farewelled with another gourmet dinner followed by some pastries from a local patisserie. We made our way to the station and I said goodbye to Martina, both promising each other to meet again somewhere in the near future.

Barcelona

2011-11-15T02:30:00.000-08:00

Barcelona is a very 'happening' and energy-filled city. It professes a very cool and welcoming atmosphere, but at the same time has an interesting grunge feel to it.

I loved my first week in Barcelona as I was able to live as more of a local rather than a tourist with Nina, Maria and Hans, ex-residents of the city.

For months Nina had been talking about the 'musts' in Barcelona, however for this first week we took things rather slowly and enjoyed exploring El Born, the groovy little area in which her apartment is situated. On Sunday morning the sun was shining and we headed down to the Port for a stroll alongside the ocean. Nina was having a great time recalling memories of when she once roller-skated along the area as we watched hundreds of others do the same, making the most of the flat surface. We then wandered through Barcelonetta, a grunge area just next to the sea where the streets are tiny, graffiti is sprayed like wallpaper on every garage door and above the road hangs the washing.

After the two weeks on the Mediterranean with deserted beaches and clean water, the sight of the beach in Barcelona was horrible. As it is shaped like a bay, the water doesn't circulate with the wider ocean and is dirty and littered with rubbish, as well as being filled with masses of people. I remember Nina telling me that she had only swum once in the beach in the seven years she lived in the city as they preferred to go elsewhere in Summer to avoid the tourists.

After watching a set of French fighter jets perform tricks over the bay we made our way to a little restaurant nearby where we enjoyed a nice Sunday lunch. The late afternoon had already approached and so we headed back to Nina's great little apartment in the heart of El Born in typical Spanish style for a little siesta. That evening after farewelling Hans who was returning to the boat, I could not contain my excitement as Nina and I went to meet Maddy who was coming to stay for a few nights. It was an emotional reunion as we hadn't seen each other for eight months. Back at the apartment Maria prepared a delicious carrot soup and some salad and for the remainder of the evening we sat on the great little balcony and shared our stories of our travelling so far.

The next morning Maddy and I went for a stroll through the city, continuing to catch up on the past six months of travel. I listened as she told me about her great few months in London, her many couch-surfing adventures and most recently of her hilarious time on the chestnut farm in the French countryside. At 2pm that same day we went to Accademia, a delicious Spanish restaurant in Barcelona that is a favourite of Maria's. Mum had been taken to the restaurant with Maria and had enjoyed it so much that she generously offered to shout us all a lunch. We had a delicious meal of cauliflower with a white sauce as an entree, and for the main course lamb with a pear and mushroom sauce.

Over a nice glass of red wine we heard the history of Maria's family in the small square outside the restaurant, all the while soaking up the great Spanish feel of the place. That evening after a nice meal again prepared by Maria, Nina Maddy and I went out for a cocktail in an old Spanish bar just off La Rambla. We woke early the next morning and headed to the Picasso Museum, hoping to beat the crowds. Maddy and I had a great look through the gallery for a few hours. My favorite work was a fantastic etching of a typical Spanish couple looking very serious. The detail was incredible and the expressions of the man and woman were captured perfectly. It was a sad farewell as we saw Maddy off that evening, however knowing we had lasted eight months apart meant we could easily last three. She was almost at the end of her travels and was excited to get home and start her new life in Sydney, where I am excited to join her in a few months time.

The following day we had a nice mother-daughter shopping outing as we tried to hunt down some winter woolies for Maria who was heading to Switzerland for a few months. We were without success in that department, however we did hunt down some other bargains as Nina bought some nice clothes and a gorgeous pair of Spanish shoes. We almost had a heart attack when we realised it was 4:30pm and we hadn't eaten anything except for some fruit in the morning, however lunch at 5pm would not seem unusual to Spaniards. A few hours later Maria was off to a friend's dinner and so Nina and I went to Kasparo, the Spanish tapas bar which has been in the Triado family for many years. We had a huge jug of Sangria to share as well as some delicious tapas. Nina reminisced on the many memories she had of herself as a little girl running into the bar kitchen in the afternoons demanding food and being treated like the little blonde princess 'm sure she was!

We left Barcelona the following day and boarded the train to San Sebastian. As we rode away from the city I was already looking forward to the next time I would be back in Barcelona in a few weeks time.

Budapest

2011-10-20T12:43:00.001-07:00

Nina and I could not contain our excitement as we stumbled through the door of Bubble Hostel in Budapest only to find a warm atmosphere and cosy lounge room filled with hostel guests awaiting us.

After feeling like outsiders in our hostel in Vienna (which was characterised by the divisiveness of a hotel) we were overjoyed that we had found staff eager to build a relationship between themselves and the guests.

As backpackers, the small things quickly become objects of appreciation... Such as a kitchen, a couch to crash on and complimentary tea and coffee, all of which we found in the first few minutes at Bubble. Olga is also the incredibly friendly owner who manages, astonishingly, to go out every night of the week to ensure her guests get the most out of Budapest's nightlife.

After a few hours of relaxing in the hostel and the preparation of a much awaited home-cooked meal, we joined the others and went to one of the local bars for a drink. After an hour or so sitting in the courtyard among many other Hungarians, we then migrated to one of the famous ruin bars, 'Instant'.

The ruin bars are known for their extraordinary interior and slightly rundown appearance, all the while maintaining a very cool ambience.

In the early hours of that morning after some dancing and chatting with the others we returned to the hostel and went to sleep.

The following morning while much of the city remained closed (the typical European way on a Sunday) we ventured over to the Buda side of the river and climbed up the Gellert hill. At the top we sat for a few hours with Allen, an American whom we had befriended in the shade of the statue.

From the bottom of the hill we walked along the river on the Buda side and enjoyed the view back across to Pest where we were staying.

We stopped for a delicious pea soup with pea confi and ricotta-filled ravioli (pity you weren't there, mum!) in a great deli/restaurant called Baldaszti's that was filled with couples and families alike enjoying their Sunday outing.

Extremely satisfied we then climbed the hill up to the Palace where we were treated to a breathtaking view of Pest and the fascinating architecture of the Parliament House which has a prime position on the bank of the river. We then had a wander through the buildings to a little square which we were later informed is in fact the setting in Katy Perry's video for Firework!

After our brush with fame we wandered back along the river, this time on the Pest side, with a great view back towards Buda.

That evening we went to another of the ruin bars, Szimpla. This bar was much more interesting as we were able to enjoy our drinks amongst many others in a big courtyard, one of the many unusual rooms in the club. It also houses rooms with dancefloors and one with a movie screening, all the while waitresses wander around offering raw carrots for anyone who is hungry but doesn't feel like greasy food.

We finished the evening by visiting another hostel in the city to participate in karaoke night. However by the time we'd arrived most of the guests had left and those remaining had exhausted their singing ability.

The following day we spent in Budapest's famous baths. Filled with an interesting mix of overweight men in skimpy swimmers and tourists eager to wade off their hangovers, it is certainly a great spot for observing the crowds.

It was a nice way to get a sense of the Hungarian culture however the temperature in the main outdoor pools was far too warm for someone like me who likes a refreshing bite to the water.

In the evening we dined at a local eatery (one that had been highly recommended by all of the other people in the hostel) known as the Hummus Bar. Like it's name suggests, the bar serves dishes filled with variations of homemade hummus. Nina and I both got a delicious falafel pocket and glass of homemade lemonade for an affordable price, and it was delicious!

Back at the hostel everyone was ready to go out to Morrison's, the best place to mingle with locals and tourists on a Monday night.

We spent many hours dancing in the club and requesting our favourite songs with Lola, Brigid and Freya, three Canberra girls whom we had befriended at the Bubble.

On Tuesday, feeling like we hadn't seen much of the city, we went for a walk around the streets of Pest and ventured to the Grand Market. Much like many of the other markets we had visited in Europe, it was filled with fresh fruit and vegetables and other produce. For lunch we returned to the hummus bar for another delicious falafel pocket before joining the other girls for a free walking tour.

We were taken to many of the sites we had previously visited but this time accompanied with some interesting facts. Hungarians are famous for a number of inventions, the only ones that remain in my mind however are the underground train, the ballpoint pen and the rubix cube.

In the afternoon we had a coffee at an old coffee house at the top of Buda and then had a peaceful walk with our iPod back along the river while the sun set.

The agenda for our final evening in Budapest was to attend the weekly dress up party at a local club. Each week the hostel staff take their guests to the club to mingle with the others and check out the other costumes.
We (Nina, Brigid, Freya, Lola and I) had a fun evening with fifteen very posh Englishmen from Cambridge as well as many others for some karaoke and 'Beer Pong'.

The next day it was time to farewell Budapest and board another dreaded overnight train to Torino. Budapest was quite an interesting city, it's most unique feature being the grungy feel that could be felt when exploring the city. Our stay in the city was so enjoyable due to the helpfulness and friendliness of Olga and Sam, the cool and very relaxed stuff at the Bubble.

Prague

2011-10-07T03:14:00.001-07:00

Our first views of Praha as the train neared the station were overshadowed by the dark sky and light rain which had been falling since we had left Cologne. We were pleasantly surprised as we were welcomed into Sir Toby's hostel with a free barbecue for all guests. As it was late and we hadn't had time to visit any shops to collect dinner items we joined the other people out in the courtyard for dinner.

After dumping our bags we went to the bar in the hostel and had a lovely few glasses of wine in the good company of two English lads- Barney and Ed. After a few drinks we decided at their suggestion to check out the five level club in the centre of Praha.

The rain had stopped as we took the tram into the city and we were overwhelmed with the beauty of the buildings and Charles' Bride which was decorated with lights.

We had an enjoyable night in the club, although there was some fairly shocking music being played (especially on the '80s' level), accompanied by some pretty shocking dancers. We made our way back to the hostel with the boys at around 6am and immediately collapsed into bed.

The following morning we had a delicious buffet breakfast and celebrated the fact that the sun was again shining.

We dressed and made our way to the beautiful castle that sits atop a hill on the outskirts of the city. The view from the top of the hill is spectacular... As one is able to admire Praha's iconic, medieval-style buildings.

We wandered through the the castle and then back down the hill to the Charles Bridge where we fought amongst tourists for a good snapshot of the river.

We had a Caesar salad for a late lunch in a great little cafe on the edge of the Jewish quarters. To watch the sunset for the evening we headed to the old section of town where the atmosphere was buzzing.

That evening we joined many others on a pub crawl of the city, and had a great conversation at one of the bars with a woman who was working for Amnesty International in the area of Women's Rights. We were very inquisitive and likewise jealous of her position and so bombarded her with questions for over an hour.

We ended our pub crawl early as the last stop was at the five level club which Nina and I agreed was definitely a 'once' experience.

The next day we went to the Jewish quarters but were unfortunately met with cold winds and rain. The rain created a very sombre and almost creepy mood as we wandered around the Jewish cemetery. Unlike most other cemeteries which have a very geometrical design, this one has layers of graves on top of one another and tombstones falling towards the centre.
This is due to the fact that for centuries the Jews were secluded to a ghetto and were therefore only given little space for each building.
The cemetery itself is very small, however we noticed on our information brochure that there is a separate summer and winter path advised for tourists. This is due to the fact that the cemetery is covered under layers of snow in the winter and imaginably is accompanied by temperatures well below zero.

For lunch that day we returned to Mistral cafe after we were so satisfied at the quality and price of the food.

The weather worsened that afternoon so we made our way back to the hostel and sat down in the bar to relax. We later met three girls- Kara, Kate and Elzy with whom we chatted and spent the following day together.

The weather was even more dreary the next day as we left the hostel to check out the flea market. It didn't take us long to realise it was just another market selling fake designer bags and other useless junk and so we headed back into the city.

We wandered around for a while however as the rain got heavier we again retired to Mistral cafe in the hope that it might clear in a few hours time.

After lunch we went to a great little bookshop Nina and I had found days before with an impressive collection of English books.

For dinner that evening we had a delicious pasta at a restaurant close to the hostel and went to bed early as Nina and I had a train at 9am the following day.

As much as I believe Praha to be a beautiful city, due to the poor weather I don't feel as if I got to know it like I did Paris and Berlin. Also, in all of the cities we had visited so far, Nina and I had always either sought out or stumbled upon the groovy, less touristy part of the city with the great shops and cafes, and we hadn't yet found this in Praha. I think that leaves nothing to say but that I will have to return in the near future to explore the city further.

Cologne

2011-10-07T03:02:00.001-07:00

Our time in Cologne staying with Sarah, Andre and their kids Isabelle, Conrad and Felicia was luxurious to say the least.
Having been already told about the Peto-Madew mansion, we were both very excited to see it in the flesh. It is an amazing four storey, architectural wonderland that sits among edifices of the same size on the edge of the park.

I was overwhelmed not only by the interesting design of the house itself but also of the impressive collection of artworks from a range of well-known artists lining the interior walls of the house.

In the early evening Sarah took us for a bike ride through the park, a nice routine she has developed as it is the only spare hour in her day and it gives her a chance for a breath of fresh air.

Having not seen this family for many years, we spent the first evening catching up on the past few years and Nina and I shared many stories of our adventures so far.
Sarah and Andre also informed us of the best things to see in Koln.

Our morning began with another walk through the park, Nina and I both grateful for the opportunity for a nice place to exercise.

After taking the tram into the city, we went to the Roman-German Museum where we visited a number of exhibitions detailing the history of the Romans in Koln.

We then visited Cafe Perfetto after a recommendation from Andre that it was the best place in the city for a coffee. He was indeed correct- quick service and a delicious cappuccino.

I then farewelled Nina who was heading to Dusseldorf for the evening to see some of her family friends and made my way to the Friesenplatz area to have a wander around. There is clearly a strong art culture in this city as I discovered the wealth of little galleries hidden around every corner whilst walking around.

I decided to sit down for a nice lunch alone after stumbling upon a cute little cafe, Candia. I had a delicious aglio, olio and pepperoncino spaghetti and an Apfelshorle, a drink served everywhere in Germany.
For the hour or so I sat in the cafe I was provided with great entertainment as I watched the lady next to me give her little pooch the royal treatment.

Dogs are held in high esteem by their owners throughout much of Europe, and are welcome on public transport and in restaurants and cafes. She had her pup beside her and was feeding it individual fries and pieces of her leftover steak, all the while comforting it with compliments.

In the afternoon I visited the Ludwig Museum, the contemporary art gallery. There were some interesting works showcased in the gallery, but my favourite without question was Miro's 'Love'.

As soon as I stepped in the front door of the house that afternoon I was led by Felicia to her bedroom to start another game of monopoly. We continued to play for hours until it was time for dinner where Sarah kindly prepared us another delicious meal. We followed dinner with a cup of tea and spoke for hours, After which everyone retired to bed.

On Wednesday I walked into the city through the parks and met with Nina outside the city's amazing cathedral. We took a moment to go inside, and the most impressive aspect was the recently added mosaic glass window which was the work of Gerhard Richter, apparently the most highly paid artist alive.

We had an hilarious few hours as Nina and I were amazed at the amount of stories that can be shared having had only 24 hours apart.

We walked to St Ursula's church after lunch and visited the tiny room which is full of bones from the 11,000 virgins (apparently it had originally been 11 virgins but after the trade of their bones was bringing successes, so they conveniently changed the story to 11,000).

That afternoon, eager for some fresh air, Nina and I went for another ride through the park and on arriving back home were again persuaded into a game of monopoly by the charming Felicia. For dinner Sarah and Andre spoiled us with a very gourmet barbecue and accompanying salads.

Our last day in Koln we spent seeing a few more sites of the city. We went to the Kolumba Art Gallery and saw the new exhibition, but what is great about this building is that it stands on the original site of an old church and uses parts of the original edifice in it's contemporary design.

To celebrate our final night with the family Sarah prepared a typically Swiss dish of melted cheese on potatoes, a favourite of all of her kids.

We woke early the next morning and said goodbye to the family, extremely grateful to all of them for their hospitality and good company over the last few days. We said goodbye to Koln and prepared ourselves for the long day of travel as we made our way to Praha.

An Historian's Dreamland.

2011-10-07T01:19:00.001-07:00

I am grateful to Germany for having such an interesting history, as it was perhaps the single thing that kept me sane in between the thousands of Maths equations and English essays.

As one of the four topics for modern history our class studied Germany from 1918 to 1939 which was perhaps the most crucial time in the country's history after the horrific First World War and during the rise of the Nazi party amongst other notable events. For this reason I was eager to get to the capital to see in the flesh the sites I had spent so long studying about. The high expectations I had of Berlin were not exaggerated, and somehow the city managed to exceed them.

The first two nights we stayed a fair way from the centre of the city near Treptower park. We arrived late on a Sunday and as everything was closed we were forced to dine amongst some strange types in a local pub. The food was very basic, and so we made it a very quick dinner and returned to our apartment.

As much of the city is closed on Monday, we decided to walk to the longest remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall at the Eastside Gallery. As it began to pour on our way through the streets of the rather cool Kreuzberg, we stopped for an Apfelshorle in a great little cafe called Die FABRIK. It was a groovy joint filled with the appropriate people and had a very friendly waitress.

As the rain began to soften we made our way to the wall and took numerous photos of the graffiti that stretched the entire 1.3km. We also stopped and wrote our names where many others had done the same to mark our visit to the wall, in my case in the hope of returning soon to see it again.

We then made our way over to Checkpoint Charlie, the landmark that stands in the middle of the city and signals a very significant historical era as it was the busiest crossover point during the time when the wall divided the city.

We visited the museum and spent hours reading the very interesting attempted escapes of many Germans whose lives had been harshly disrupted after the construction of the wall.

As the sun had set for the day we returned home and cooked a quick meal before getting in to bed to read our books as the rain continued to fall outside.

Tuesday morning we moved into St Christopher's hostel in Rosa-Luxemburg Platz in the heart of the Mitte district, what immediately became my favourite area of the city.

The Mitte district is the cultural heart of Berlin- the streets are filled with thousands of galleries exhibiting the works of up and coming artists, there are groovy cafes on every corner and amongst all of this there is some of the best shopping I have ever experienced. In other words, I was in my very own heaven.

We filled the day very easily wondering around these streets soaking up the sun as well as the thriving atmosphere of Mitte. We found a great burrito/soup/salad bar 'Dolores' which became our little hangout for the rest of the week for it's amazing quality and backpacker prices.

We visited a great store of a local Berlin fashion designer named Esther Perbandt. After admiring all of her work, Nina purchased a fabulous black suede coat for a great price.

We arrived back at the hostel late that evening and made the most of happy hour sitting in the bar enjoying a few drinks. We were both happy as there were televisions around the room broadcasting various sports including the Rugby World Cup and more surprisingly, AFL.

We met two British guys, Will and John, who later introduced us to their other friends and who we joined on an expedition to a gay bar on the other side of the city. Had we known Tuesdays were the quietest nights in Berlin we probably wouldn't have bothered, as the bar was empty and the neighbourhood dead quiet. It was nice though to spend the evening in some new company.

Throughout much of North-Eastern a number of the concentration and labour camps used in the war still stand and are open to visit for tourists. We decided the following day to make the 90 minute journey to Sachsenhausen, one of the most important camps in Germany, with two other Australian girls, Penny and Ardy.

Sachsenhausen was a significant camp in Germany as it was one of the first built and was therefore used as a mould for other camps in the future. It was also important as, towards the end of the war when the Soviets where marching into Germany, many people from the camps were moved there and many stayed even after the end of the war.

It was certainly a moving experience, and much of the information we were told on our tour was hard to comprehend.

As Sachsenhausen was built in (1933), it was originally a place for the Nazis to send their political opposition- the communists. Therefore it is actually classified as a labour camp rather than a concentration camp as the people were forced into working.
As the years went by it continued to be filled with anyone who was considered opposition to the Nazis but it wasn't until about (1939) that the Jewish people started arriving.

We were given an insightful explanation about every element of the camp, and were told many figures about the number of fatalities in the camp, the most devastating being that of the 200,000 that resided there over the years, only about 38,000 survived.

We were invited by Penny and Ardy to join them for dinner at a nice restaurant they had discovered the previous evening. We had a great evening at 'Good Morning Vietnam' where we each enjoyed a traditional Vietnamese curry and I rejoiced in the fact that it had a bit of spice to it.
After dinner we returned to the hostel and sat down in the bar for some more drinks with the many other hostel guests.

On Thursday morning the rain had unfortunately returned along with the unexpected freezing temperatures and so we went to the Jewish Museum. Architecturally the building is fascinating, and the inside of the building is almost like a maze as one follows the different exhibitions around the room.

After the museum we went back to the hostel to meet Ardy who wasn't feeling well, and then ate lunch at Dolores. In the afternoon Nina and I were eager to explore the other side of Mitte which we hadn't seen yet and so we left the others and went for a wander. We found a nice little cafe called the barn where we sat down for a coffee, only to discover the entire staff were had Australian accents and were communicating in English. It did not come as a surprise as the entire four months we'd been travelling so far we'd met more Australians than any other nationality.

Whilst wandering around Mitte we stopped at every second window to admire the clothes and shoes on display, and resisted buying anything except a cardigan which I greatly needed as we were beginning to feel the cool Autumn Weather which would only get cooler for the rest of our days in Europe.

The next day the clouds and light rain that was falling outside reflected Nina's state as she felt unwell from the previous day.

I spent the morning enjoying the cold in my wool coat and spent hours walking and listening to my iPod. As the rain got heavier I stopped in at a little art gallery and had a look around and then had a coffee. For an hour or so I sat writing my blog and enjoying the time by myself. On the way back to the hostel I bought a cool necklace which I found in a great little shop in AuguststraBe.

In the afternoon Nina's state hadn't improved and neither had the weather so I caught the train over to Kreuzberg to further explore the district. I revisited Die FABRIK and to my surprise was recognised by the waitress who helped me translate the menu to find something to order.

We had another delicious dinner of papaya noodle salad and rice paper rolls at Good Morning Vietnam.

On Saturday we both eagerly made our way to the old Templehof airport for the Berlin Music Festival. We had a wander through the art display and had a quick curry for lunch before the acts started. Over the course of the evening we saw some fantastic live music including The Naked & Famous, Beirut, Boyz Noise, The Bloody Betroots, Tune-yards and Mogwai.

The next day we followed our tradition of seeking out the city's walking tour and made our way to the Brandenburg gate to meet the guide.

Our guide Tom from England was incredible! His knowledge of 800 years of German history and his ability to remember every name and date was impressive. It was slightly depressing though as his wealth of knowledge made me feel as if I knew nothing in comparison, although it did make me eager to continue studying German history in more depth.

On the tour we went to the many historical monuments including the Reichstag, the Memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe, the site of Hitler's bunker, the remnants of the Berlin wall and the old Nazi Airforce building. We also spent a while in Paris square where we saw the famous Adlon Hotel and the American and French embassies. We noticed the American flag was flying half-mast and remembered it was the tenth anniversary of the Twin Towers attacks. Tom also told us that for the suite in the Adlon hotel it is only €15,000 per night with which one gets a personal butler and limousine.

We had to leave the walking tour early as Nina and I had an appointment at the Reichstag of which we had to be prompt.
We went up into the top dome of the Reichstag and had a great view over the city and it's many sites.

A few hours later as we watched the sky turn a freaky black we went back to the Museum at the Memorial to the Jews. If anyone has seen the Memorial they will understand that walking through there as the lightning and thunder continued above us would understand that it was a very eerie and rather creepy experience. The Museum was well worth the visit as it tells the story of individuals and families that were victims of the holocausts and therefore tries to put identities to the figures of which we sometimes throw around too loosely.

We celebrated our final night in Berlin with a delicious burrito at Dolores and both regretted the fact that we were leaving in the morning.

On our way to Koln I realised how much I loved Berlin, and I can see it as a city in which I would definitely want to live. Away from the touristy sites (such as in Mitte and Kreuzberg) I find it a very relaxing but at the same time very 'happening' place, and I could easily picture myself joining the thousands of others on bikes on their way to work each day.

Esslingen

2011-10-07T01:02:00.001-07:00

We were now heading into the country I was most excited to explore for it's wealth of history and culture.

Our first stop in Deutschland was in the small town of Esslingen where we spent a quick two nights visiting Nina's lovely and very charismatic grandma, Omi.

We were given an enthusiastic welcome to her home as she waved us in from her fifth floor balcony. When I stepped in the door her warmth and eagerness to provide us with a comfortable hospitality was prevalent, as was her desire to practise her few English phrases.

Literally seconds after arriving at the apartment I was introduced to one of the many German traditions that is practiced in homes throughout the country, "kaffee und kuchen".
The Germans are famous for their sweet tooth, and I had first noticed this on the boat when there was a special cupboard assigned to sweets to satisfy the Germans and the Swiss on-board!

On the table was a selection of enormous slices of different German cakes... apricot cheesecake, chocolate cake, plum cake and a forest berry and chocolate sponge variety.
It is routine for each person to eat an entire piece each, and not being a fan of cakes made this a difficult task for me!

With absolutely no appetite for food have just scoffed down the last of the cake we returned to the table to share dinner together. Nina couldn't keep the smile off her face as her favourite German dish was laid out in front of her, Moultasshen soup. I sat at the table rather lost in the German conversation that was unwinding in front of me, catching perhaps one in every hundred words.

The following day Nina and I were eager to try and walk off the extra kilos gained from the following evening, so we woke early and left the apartment. We followed a little path up alongside a number of farms, again filled with apple trees. We stopped at the top and took a big bite from one of the apples from the tree and were overcome with happiness at it's crunchy texture.

When we retuned to Omi's she had already prepared us a breakfast of fruit, muesli and tea. We went into the city later that morning to have a look around and buy a gift for Nina's great Aunty who was celebrating her 95th birthday.

That afternoon together with all of Nina's German relatives we went to a local restaurant for a second round of kaffee und kuchen for the birthday party. It was a very overwhelming experience as I sat in a room of about fifty Germans who couldn't speak a word of English. There was a lot of nodding and smiling on my behalf over the following few hours.

In the evening we had dinner at a restaurant with a panoramic view of the town and spent the final hours sharing some drinks at a local bar in the centre with Nina's cousin and her partner.

After a few slow days and the excitement to get to Berlin I was eager to get back on the road, so on Sunday morning we prepared ourselves for another day travelling on trains.

Switzerland

2011-10-03T23:39:00.000-07:00

As the train silently wound along the tracks we were immediately able to judge when we had crossed into Swiss territory due to the picturesque scenery and wealth of apple trees dotted around the landscape.

It was a nice contrast when we arrived into the small Swiss city of Zurich after having had a busy week in the French capital. After dumping our luggage, we met up with Anna Marie who took us for a stroll along the edge of the lake and through the old section of the city. The natural beauty and Zurich's immaculate cleanliness were certainly the most dominant characteristics of the city.

As we sat beside the lake and watched the many birds playing in the water I was also given my first taste of a traditional Swiss/German food, Bratwurst.

That evening we went for a walk further down the river to Zurich's famous baths. Every few hundred metres on the river shore a public bath is stationed where people enjoy a swim in the clear water that flows through the city.

As it was nearing the end of summer the baths were filled with young people enjoying their last hours of freedom. On our walk back to the apartment we watched as the same people migrated from the water to the groovy row of bars overlooking the river for a celebratory drink and good laugh.
We spent the night enjoying the privacy of our own apartment which had been kindly provided to us by Suzanne, another of Hans' friends.

The following day we were invited by Anna Marie to accompany her for a Swiss breakfast of fruit, cheeses, bread and coffee. After our meal Anna Marie took us for a walk to the woods which inhabit the higher regions of Zurich and provide a fantastic viewpoint of the city and the mountains on the horizon. As I walked along the path I felt like I was entering into a film setting... the surrounding environment seemed truly surreal.

At 12pm we met Daniella and Tanja for brunch at a thriving little cafe in the old district of Zurich, the Maison Blunt Tea Room. As it was a Sunday the cafe had a great atmosphere and was packed with friends and families catching up over a delicious meal.
We each ordered a serve of scrambled eggs with tomato and onion, and shared the Oriental Platter which Tanja insisted we order! It had a mixture of things... Hummus, yoghurt and fruit, olives, dried fruit and more.
We then walked together along the side of the lake to the city's annual cultural festival which was celebrating its last day.
After wandering around the lake for an hour or so we returned to the apartment and went for another walk through the woods, hoping to catch a view of the sun setting behind the city.

Our final day in Zurich we spent navigating our way around the old quarter. Nina purchased her much awaited Swiss Army knife after which we went to check out a highly recommended vegetarian cafe - Tibits - where we enjoyed a buffet of delicious vegetarian delicacies. We went with the intention of looking and doing a bit of food research for Maria however we couldn't resist trying the mass of gourmet food on offer. Switzerland is by far the most expensive country we have visited, and we were shocked to discover that for our two plates of mixed salads, it cost us 48 Francs!

That evening we had another walk through the woods and then a quiet dinner together in the apartment.
The following day we caught the train to St Gallen, a fairytale-like city in the North of Switzerland.

Again we were able to stay with one of Hans' friends, Masi. The three days we spent in St Gallen were very relaxing and we were treated to some delicious home cooked meals and movie nights together. Masi also cooked for us the traditional German tart known as zwetske kuchen- a delicious (but not sickly sweet) plum-filled pastry.

During the day we went for a walk to the lakes which sit at the highest point of the city and are a popular place for swimmers, musicians and sportsmen alike.

One evening we made the short journey through the stunning countryside to the shore of Lake Bodensee (or Lake Constance). As we wound down our windows to get a clearer view of the farms the car filled with the beautiful aroma of apples due to the thousands of trees that lined the road.

As we sipped on our glass of the regions famous Apfelshorle beside the lake we enjoyed a great view of the German towns on the other side. Had the following day been sunny we would have taken the ferry across the lake to German territory as it would have made for a more exciting journey, but unfortunately we woke up to the sound of pouring rain.

Our three days in St Gallen meant our last few days in Switzerland. It was an enjoyable week spent in the company of interesting Swiss friends and in what has to be the cleanest place on the planet.

For the Love of Paris

2011-08-27T08:46:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Paris at 9am on a sunny Sunday morning, and navigated our way across the city via the metro to our hostel in Montmartre. After a quick shower and some breakfast at the hostel we made our way into the city to the Notre Dame.

As it was a Sunday we were able to see a mass in procession, and it was a phenomenal experience. I think the most fascinating part of the church is in fact it's location, as it stands out almost on an island where the river forks and continues alonside it.

In the afternoon we had an exciting reunion with Angus who had just begun his Contiki tour around Europe. Together we reminisced on the joys of travelling as we climbed the hundreds of steps up the Eiffel Tower.

The view from the top is astounding, however as it is crowded with tourists I would put it second best to that of the view over the city from the top of the Arc du Triumphe.

That evening after leaving Angus with his tour we sat in the courtyard of the hostel where we met Freddy, who we ended up spending the remainder of the week with, and his friend Izzy. We were also introduced to Cameron whose typical Australian 'bogan' characteristics proved to be a constant source of entertainment for the evening.

Together with a few German girls, Pierre (a Parisian) and a few American girls, we all headed to the Sacre Coeur to see the lights of the city. We spent many hours drinking red wine on the steps of the Church before heading to some bars to finish the evening. Unlike it's neighbours (Italy and Spain), the nightlife in France finishes comparatively early, with the last bars open only until around 2am. It is strange coming also from South America (countries which have adapted Spanish tendencies) where 2am would be the hour we would leave to go out for the evening.

The following day the same group of us went for a long walk to the Arc du Triumphe, with a lunch stop at one of the city's many parks. We spent a few hours playing cards and experimenting with each others camera before continuing on to the Arc. The €6 we payed to climb to the top was perhaps the best spent, as it is from the top that one is treated to a fantastic panoramic view of the city as well as the ideal viewpoint of the hectic traffic scenario below. It also is the perfect spot to observe the Champs Elysee, the most prestigious avenue in the city. Nina and I then split from the others to spend the afternoon walking down the Champs Elysee and then to the Marais district.

That evening our group had increased and our group of now fifteen people from different corners of the world decided to head into the city to view the lights of the Eiffel tower which flash every night on the hour, beginning at 10pm. Freddy, Izzy, Nina and I hired bikes and rode in to meet the others. It was thrilling to ride through the streets of Paris at night and observe the many people we passed on the way down. We found a free spot on the grass and cracked open a bottle of red wine to celebrate.

After a few hours in the park we rode home and watched as the city shutdown for the evening.

Having been in Paris only a few weeks earlier, it was not a surprise that mum and dad had a number of hints as to the best things to do and see (besides those obvious) in Paris. They had also generously offer to shout us a meal at a restaurant in which they had dined so we could experience some typical Parisian cuisine. We took the metro into the city and walked across the Pont des Artes where we eventually found the surprise that had been left for us by my family. We found the lock that wished us luck for the onward journey that was bolted to the bridge alongside thousands of others. We then made our way to Canal St Martin to the Hotel du Nord for lunch.

The feel of the restaurant was very French and pleasantly relaxed, and we sat down at a table in the little courtyard.

For lunch we had a very gourmet menu- goats cheese ravioli with rocket and Parmesan for entree, a steak with a delicious source and some amazing mashed potato for main course and a lemon tart for dessert, all washed down with a glass of French red wine. A few hours later we left the Hotel, both unable to wipe the smiles from our faces at the satisfaction of the experience. To top off the perfect day in Paris we looked through the shops alongside the canal and both found a few things to purchase. Before heading back to the hostel to meet Fred we sat on the edge of the canal and admired the incredible style of the Parisians.

For our third evening in Paris we met up with Fred and his host couch-surfer alongside the river Seine. We sat for a few hours just below the Notre Dame and listened to a band play a number of classic tunes. We were then taken by Mikhael to enjoy a crepe and then we headed to a gay club. It was an interesting night to say the least, with the male to female ratio about 50:1. We had a fun evening dancing together and watching Mikhael who was a hilarious dancer. On the way home we were entertained by his many catwalk impersonations, and he went on to tell me that in his opinion Paris is the only city in the world where one can catwalk down the streets without feeling out of place...and I tend to agree.

Early the following morning we took the metro to the Musee d'Orsay, and booked the English guided tour (after a recommendation from mum). For the next hour and a half we were led around the museum and were shown works by Monet, Manet and Van Gogh among many others. The architectural design of the museum is incredible as it was once a train station, and the colossal gold clock that sits on the wall is an original from many years ago. The tour was well worth it, and we were told many things about the artists' early life which can often be overlooked.

As a big contrast to the art exhibited in the Musee d'Orsay, in the afternoon we went to the Pompidou, a strikingly mondern edifice that was rightfully described as 'the worlds first inside out building' by LP. It has a number of tunnels running up the side of the building which give it a very futuristic aesthetic. We viewed a number of exhibitions inside the gallery, however none were overly spectacular and being an admirer of unusual architecture I thought the building itself was the most interesting part.

That evening we had a quiet evening in the hostel with Freddy and a few others, and farewelled him as he headed back to Mikhael's house.

Thursday was Freddy's last day in Paris before heading South to do grape picking for a few weeks, so we decided to spend the day together. We met at the Louvre and after seeing the size of the line, we decided to wait until the afternoon when the crowd dies down to go inside.

Whilst waiting for Fred to arrive however we recognised two New Zealanders who we had spoken to on our flight to Santiago four months ago. For half an hour we caught up with their stories and likewise shared ours.

After farewelling Nat and Danny we went to the park to eat lunch and watch the people who walked past. Freddy, who is studying music at university and is in a number of bands himself, played us some beautiful music as we sat under the shade of the tree. In the afternoon we went to the Louvre and saw the Mona Lisa behind her many layers of glass.

I was surprised at the shear size of the Museum, having not realised in the beginning that it stretched throughout the buildings surrounding the palace. We took the metro back to the hostel after a few hours in the Louvre and got ready to go our again. We had an invitation to a jazz bar in the city where Freddy's new host was playing in a band that evening. We watched the band play for a few hours and talked among ourselves as it was our last night together. Unfortunately due to the metro curfew we had to say goodbye to Fred earlier than we'd have liked to, however we had plans to meet up again when I head to London.

In contrast to the weather we had had all week, Friday was freezing. We went back to see the Sacre Coeur by day, and then took the metro to the Sorbonne area to look around the University. From there we wandered around the streets in Marais and the Latin district and discovered an area filled with niche little designer shops. Unfortunately for my funds I was only able to admire, however surprisingly this proved to be enough.

Our final evening was an early one as we had a train booked to Zurich for early the following morning. We had dinner in the courtyard and had some laughs with Cameron and Mark, a gay tourguide from Alice Springs who had a great love of recalling horror stories from his many years as a tour guide.

Nina and I were both sad to leave Paris, and I can see myself wanting to live there in the future. It has a reputation for being a fantastic city rife with culture, art, fashion and good food and can sometimes be mistaken for a cliche' travel destination, however it has developed this name for good reason. It is certainly one of the most impressive cities I have visited, and I feel lucky to have experienced it.

The Med - The 'It' Destination for Europeans over Summer.

2011-08-27T08:24:00.000-07:00

The cities and villages, the people, the accent, the food. Spending another three weeks in Italy has made me realise how much I have a real soft spot for this country and all it has to offer.

After an exciting business class flight due to an unexpected upgrade, we arrived in Rome at 2am on Saturday morning. As soon as we stepped off the plane we were hit by the hot European heat, a big contrast to the winter temperatures we had been experiencing for the past three months.

Summer in Roma was an incredible experience, and it had a very different feel to the last few times I had been in Italy when it was the middle of winter. Apart from the obvious increase in the number of tourists, the city also seems to be more alive. The setting of the sun doesn't occur until around 10pm, and and as a result the crowds remain in the city until late in the evening.

We had a busy three days exploring Roma including the obvious attractions like Il Colosseo, La Fontana di Trevi, La Basilica di San Pietro and others. We also spent many hours of the day wondering around getting lost in the little cobblestone streets that wind their way endlessly through the city.

On the third night in the city we arranged to catch up with Mel and Pat, which was exciting as it was the first familiar face we had seen. Together we spent hours sharing stories in the park before heading to [Travastere] in search of the infamous "chocolate shots" bar.

The rest of the evening we spent enojying a margherita pizza, a delicious hazelnut flavoured chocolate shop and a long walk back to our hostel on the other side of the city.

From Roma we travelled the short few hours North to the little village of Orvieto. Having visited Orvieto on my first trip to Italy, I remembered it as being a very beautiful village situated on the top of a mountain with an incredible view of the surrounding countryside. It was exactly as I had remembered, but even more beautiful at the height of summer as there was an incredible view of the acres of green fields below.

We spent our time in Orvieto staying with an Italian family who were a friend of Nina's in their gorgeous little home. It was a relaxing few days as we took the opportunity to relax and experience the true Italian way of life, and for me to enjoy speaking Italian.

From Orvieto we went to Firenze where we checked into a camping ground for three nights. We had arranged to meet up again with Mel and Pat for their final night in the city, and together we watched the sunset from our idyllic position on the top of the hill and then finished the evening in a restaurant where we all indulged in a big bowl of Italian pasta.

Like Roma, the following few days we wondered around Firenze, visited the famous leather markets and spent many hours people watching. While I enjoyed revisiting Firenze, it was a very hot few days and we were both relieved knowing in a few days we would have the opportunity to dive into the Mediterranean after a long three and a half months without the ocean.

Our trip along the West coast of Italy and the South of France aboard Paso Doble was spectacular to say the least. We visited a number of gorgeous little villages where we were able to observe the unique European summer culture without the masses of tourists.

The Mediterranean is unlike anywhere else I have ever seen during the summer period. The atmosphere both on the sea and on land is one of excitement as the holiday-makers enjoy the sunlight which lasts until late in the evening. The ocean is crowded with million dollar yachts and enormous speed boats, all of which accommodate wealthy families and their friends. Every evening the boats dock in some of the most prestigious marinas in the world (like Porto Venere and Monaco), giving their owners a chance to show off their prized possessions and for the people on land to likewise admire them.

Over the two weeks we covered a fair distance, from Porto Ferraio to Porto Venere, (along the Cinque Terre), Sestri Levante, Genova, San Remo, Monaco ending our trip in Antibes. Each place had it's own attractions, but it was Porto Venere that I immediately fell in love with.

A small village that stretches along the edge of a cliff, this town has many attractive features. The cobblestone streets that wind their way up the hill are filled with fascinatingly tall houses that are each treated to the view of the bay below. On the highest point of the cliff face is a gorgeous little church decorated with black and white marble. It is not surprising that the church is in such a dominant position as this is the case in most Italian cities. Also, it had an amazing jumping spot off the side of the cliff where one could swim alongside the soaring cliffs which form this part of the coastline. It is no wonder that Porto Venere was the long term retreat of the late Lord Byron, and it is certainly understandable how he was able to draw inspiration from the place.

The weeks on the boat also provided for Nina and I some time to relax and enjoy the summer sun after having a cold few winter months. As Maria was also on the boat with us, we were treated to some gourmet meals which came as a big treat! I commend her on her efforts as she was able to prepare some very deluxe meals in the small kitchen on board. We were also grateful for the delicious fresh produce we would often find in local markets as we went for our morning walks to explore each of the little towns before the rest of the people had begun their day.

One of the other amazing places we visited on the Italian coast was Portofino. I recognized the name as the place where my parents had spent their honeymoon all of those years ago. After anchoring in the bay we took the dinghy ashore to have a closer look at the little town. The main piazza was filled with restaurants selling Italian delicacies and the surrounding laneways were filled with designer boutiques to satisfy the demands of Portofino's wealthy visitors. After a slow passeggiata around the town it was obvious why mum and dad would have chosen such a place to spend their holiday.

On the way back to the boat we admired the extensive gardens that spread the width of the cliffs, each filled with olive trees as well as some unusual species of plants.

Our stopover in Genova after a week on the boat gave us a chance to stock up on supplies as well as pick up our two new passengers for the following week. Daniella and Tanja, two Swiss women, boarded the boat armed with some much needed nespresso refils, and we began sailing toward San Remo.

To celebrate the departure of Maria, Alexandre, Nina and I we went out to dinner on arriving in Antibes. We found a nice outdoor eating area where we enjoyed our first French meal as well as some entertainment by a local group of young musicians.

The next morning Nina and I boarded the train to Nice, as Maria and Alexandre headed to Barcelona and Hans was left with Christian to continue sailing. It was a sad time as I watched the Triado family split and go their separate ways, their next full reunion not until July of next year.

Unfortunately our stay in Nice was cut short due to a number of issues, and we has only one day to see the city.

It was another scorching summer day and so we headed to the seaside, one of the iconic beaches on the famous Cote d'Azur. The European beach scene is much different to the one in Australia... Rocks replace sand, waves are nowhere to be seen and the number of people is multiplied by hundreds (in a much smaller space).

We barely noticed as the hours passed and we realised we had been on the beach for many hours. Being much closer to one's fellow beach-goers also means that they can offer a great source of entertainment, especially the French and Italian crowds. Totally devoted to their image and tan, many barely touch the water and spend most of their time posing for photos on the shore.

This put an end to another stage of our journey, and we were excited to begin our backpacking across Europe.

The Final Month in South America.

2011-07-23T16:14:00.000-07:00

Firstly, I apologise for the delay in posting this blog...but I have been too busy triapsing across the Argentinian countryside tasting wine and exploring the different cities this country has to offer. However this episode begins back in Peru.

Our time in Peru was unintentionally short lived due to the dangerous protests that were causing problems at the Peru/Bolivia border, however it was a truly fantastic week and well worth the extra flight costs.
We left La Paz in the early morning of the 3rd of July and arrived in Cusco that same day. We had the afternoon to explore as much of the city as we could, and we enjoyed the few hours that we had in the massive market located in the centre of the city. We had also coincided our arrival into Cusco with the celebrations of the 100th anniversary of the "discovery" of Machu Picchu (despite the fact it had been inhabited by over a hundred years by the Incas prior to this).

In the evening we attended the briefing to our Inca Trail that departed the following day. We were slightly worried as our guide Reuben casually informed us that we may have to skip the famous Dead Woman´s Pass (the 4215m elevation that is ultimately the greatest achievement of the trek) and go via the valley due to snow fall. Not only were we worried we would miss the opportunity to climb the slope but we also realised that snow meant only one thing - freezing conditions!

The following morning we arrived at the corner of the street ready to board the bus...which was nowhere to be seen. We could only laugh as we soon discovered (after initially being frightened we´d been left behind) that we had forgotten to change the times on our phones and as a result we spent an extra hour standing in the freezing cold at 4:30 in the morning.
The first day trek was comparatively easy, however we were introduced to the Inca stairs which make up much of the remainder of the walk, and provide the extra challenge for the hikers.
For the next three days we were treated to perfect weather as we made our way along the Inca Trail.
The climb up Dead Woman´s Pass was a fantastic and exhilirating one and a half hour ascent at a quick pace, and to see the view of the surrounding mountains from a 4215 elevation was spectacular. An American guy and I raced ahead of the group to experience the view from the top before it was disrupted by the remainder of the hikers and porters.

The final day we were woken earlier than the previous days in order to get through the checkpoint and get to Heaven´s Gate (the viewpoint from which one can see the whole of Machu Picchu) before sunrise. On the final night before groups make their way to Machu Picchu it is compulsory for all hikers to camp at the one site, and as a result it becomes a race to get to Heaven´s Gate to get the best view of the sunrise over the ancient city before the crowd. Our group was the second last to pass through the checkpoint, however I was determined to reach the top before the 499 other hikers so along with my new Scottish friend David, I ran to the top and managed to arrive before all but three hikers. Again the view was unlike anything else, and the city was much grander than I had expected.

When the rest of the group arrived we descended into Machu Picchu and spent the next two hours touring the city and exploring each of the important monuments which are incredibly still intact.
There was then the option to climb the mountain that stood next to Machu Picchu city, Huayna Picchu, and was slightly higher, so I set off with the two Scottish boys from our group. After a quick 30 minute walk that was almost vertical we arrived at the top and had a great birds-eye view over the city.
We had a slightly different experience of Machu Picchu than the regular visit as it was the celebration of the 100th anniversary. Consequently, the 1500 visitors that come daily from Cusco were prohibited from entering and instead I walked past the Peruvian President, along with a number of other officials. There was also a stage set up and dancers performed a number of traditional routines. The whole experience seemed a bit surreal and it was a bit of a juxtaposition seeing all of the modern day sound equipment positioned on a centuries-old city.
When we left the mountain after lunchtime we went down to Aguas Calientes where we were served a buffet lunch. This was no surprise considering we had been truly spoiled during the entire hike with each meal consisting of three gourmet courses cooked by our young old chef.

We arrived late into Cusco that evening and spent the last few hours packing our bag for our early departure the following morning.
It was freezing as we woke up at 4:30 the following morning only to discover after having showered and packed our bags that we had again forgotten to change the times on our phones and we now had to spend the hour of 5am wondering around the deserted hostel.
After a long day of flight delays due to the continuing volcanic action in Chile we arrived in Buenos Aires.
The excitement began from the moment we checked in at Art Hostel as we had a little reunion with Maryam and Saleem.
The rest of the weekend we spent exploring Buenos Aires and making the most of Saleem´s last few days in the city before he headed back home to America.
On Saturday night our plans to enjoy the famous Buenos Aires nightlife were ruined by the election which was to run the following day (and as a result everything was forced to close early the night before).
Instead we enjoyed the live Argentinian band who came to play in our hostel and spent the early hours of the morning enjoying the company of other hostel guests on the roof terrace. We also tuned in to the Copa America game, the soccer competition that involves a team from each country in South America.
Saleem left for the airport the following morning and we began to plan our trip around Argentina. Nina and I had three weeks and Maryam two, so we arranged to be back in Buenos Aires for her departure on the 24th.
The past two weeks we have been travelling around the Central and Northern parts of Argentina: Buenos Aires - Rosario - Cordoba - Mendoza - Salta - Puerto Iguazu - Buenos Aires.

Our schedule was fairly tight, with every second night for the first week spent on a bus getting from one place to the next.
Strangely enough however it didn´t seem rushed, and the few days we spent in each city was enough to give us a taste of its character and allow us to explore the best sites.
Rosario was the first city we visited, and perhaps remains my favourite. We checked into a lovely little family-run hostel, La Lechuza, before heading out to explore the last hours of the day. We walked down to the river and walked along the pier and watched the hundreds of young people who had discovered the pier as a nice place to spend the evening skateboarding and drinking mate´.
That evening we met two Australian boys who had been in Rosario for two weeks, having initially only intended to stay for two nights. They told us the best parts of the city to visit the following day and we spent the evening in their company along with twelve French exchange students who were currently studying in the city.
We woke early the next morning and were heading towards the city´s monument before I spotted a nice little clothing boutique. An hour or so later we exited the shop, each with an extra bag in hand and a slightly smug expression on our faces.
We climbed the city´s monument and were treated to a magnificent view of the entire city and the river that wound around the outskirts.
We headed back to the hostel that evening after spending the rest of the day visiting the sites of the city and admiring its architecture. Juan, the owner of the hostel entertained us until 10pm that night when we headed back to the bus terminal to make our way to Cordoba.

Our hostel in Cordoba was the worst we had stayed in yet- the floors were covered in cigarette ash, the surfaces were dirty and the staff were useless- they were completely disinterested in maintaining any form of hygiene and organisation.
The two days we had in Cordoba we spent admiring the various art galleries (although unfortunately few were open) and went for a long walk in the central park. We managed to find the best gelato in the city where Nina and I indulged in chocolate tart with brownie and dulce de leche (a sweet spread that is everywhere in South America and has a similar flavour and consistency to condensed milk). Maryam went for the banana split dessert to satisfy her everlasting sweet tooth- three flavours of icecream with banana and dulce de leche smothered on the top.

We also found another few shops where we all purchased a little something. When I got back to the hostel I noticed for the first time that the woman had charged me $98 Argentinian pesos instead of $398...and that perhaps it was karma for the fact that when I first arrived in Argentina the ATM dispensed a $10 instead of a $100. Either way I was happy with my absolute bargain!

The next stop was Mendoza, the famous region in Argentina known for its history of wine production. We were overwhelmed with relief as we arrived at the Empedrado Hostel to find a very clean, friendly atmosphere with many other bonuses such as a gourmet breakfast (eggs and pancakes!) and free wine tasting that evening.

At 2pm we left our hostel and began a tour of two of the vineyards closeby. We were shown the winemaking process and were given a taste of each of the wines at the close of the tour. Unfortunately as it was winter the landscape looked fairly barren and there were no grapes on the trees, however it was nice to see a taste of the Argentinian countryside.
We also visited an olive oil factory where we were shown the very simple process in place to produce the different varieties of their extra-virgin olive oil. When we stepped into the factory we were met with the glorious olive fragrance and we struggled to leave after inhaling it for ten minutes.
We were given a taste of the different varieties and then made our way back to Mendoza as this last stop signified the close of the tour.
That evening we continued drinking wine as we participated as pupils of the wine tasting session. The woman directed us as to how wine should be properly tasted and then allowed us to decide for ourselves whether we liked the flavours of the local wine...which we certainly did.
We had a free day in Mendoza to wonder the city again, and as many of the museums were again closed we spent much of the time soaking up the sun in the central park where there was a festival to celebrate the wine in Mendoza. Each individual -man, woman and even child were given a small bag with an apple and a popper of wine.
As we made our way back to the bus terminal we were grateful that we had decided to make the detour to Mendoza as we were satisfied with our visit to the city.
As we completed each step of our journey the duration of the bus trips began to increase, as did the ticket prices which are surprisingly expensive! Overall we spent nearly $550 on buses (over half of our budget for the entire three weeks in Argentina) however it was well worth it to see these impressive cities.

We were all looking forward to Salta as we had discussed it would be the destination where we would be able to have a bit of a splurge and do some outdoor activities...and that we did.
Our first day in Salta was beautifully sunny and was perfect for the whitewater rafting we had booked for the day. We spent a few hours going down the rapids and had a great time admiring the surrounding landscape.

Before being served lunch Nina, Maryam and I walked to the middle of the bridge and took turns bungee jumping, plunging towards the freezing river below.

After the swinging and hanging in the air I was dropped into a boat and brought to shore where I watched the others nervously drop.
We had a delicious lunch, returned to Salta and topped off our already perfect day with another (guilty) clothing purchase and a traditional Argentinian beer - Quilmers.
The following day the weather had changed rapidly and there was a harsh wind blowing through the city. We wondered around the Plaza and the surrounding streets however we then had to get back to the hostel to prepare for our 24 hour bus ride to Puerto Iguazu...which we were all beginning to dread.

Our day in Iguazu Falls was unfortunately dominated by the poor weather- the first rainy day we had experienced in the trip so far. We saw the falls from a number of different viewpoints and managed to get a few photos in the spray, and in the afternoon we went on the walks through the rainforest.

We arrived back in Buenos Aires exhausted, but very satisfied. After a night out in Crobar, one of the biggest clubs in the city, we must now farewell Maryam who flies back to La Paz tomorrow. It has been a fantastic few months with her and she has become one of my best friends, which is amazing considering the short time we have known each other. The feelings of sadness are shadowed by my excitement to see her when I have a month in the UK in November.

Nina and I now have a few more days in Buenos Aires to walk around the different districts before we head to Rome. It has been an incredible few months on this continent, and I plan to come back in the new future to explore the rest of the territory that I am yet to visit.

A Festive Farewell to Bolivia

2011-07-02T13:51:00.000-07:00

June is the month for festivals in La Paz. Over the past few weeks we have attended a number of traditional Bolivian celebrations in and around the city including El Gran Poder, Aymara New Year and San Juan. Traditional Bolivia is also the theme for the Bolivian Express issue for this month, so each of these interesting and very different celebrations has been documented by one of the interns.

Early on Saturday morning as Nina and I awoke after a big night out we could hear the sounds of the parade that is characteristic of the Gran Poder. The Gran Poder is an annual event that celebrates both Jesus Christ and the Pachamama (Mother Earth), tying together both Catholic and Andean beliefs. It continues throughout the entire day and is a festival that brings together not only the different cultures, but is attended by Pacenos (citizens of La Paz) of all ages.

The parade celebrates the different traditional dances of various Bolivian cultures, and the importance of these dances for the participants is evident in the preparations taken to both practise the dance and make the very elaborate costumes. For some dancers, practise begins months prior to the day in order to perfect the routine. These days there is criticism surrounding the festival as some believe it to have forgotten it’s religious origins and has become more commercialised. Some Paceños are beginning to complain that the costumes are mere representations of the individual’s wealth and prestige.

Despite this criticism, the costumes are in a league of their own and are an incredible display of clever handicraft. Nina and I arrived at the parade later in the morning to catch a glimpse of the dancers up close before the big crowds start arriving later in the afternoon. As I was covering the Gran Poder for the magazine I managed to interview a few of the dancers while they caught their breath, and this was an interesting way to learn about the opinions of the evolvement of the festival of those involved.

Later in the evening we visited the parade for a second time, however we waited in line for over two hours before we were allowed through the gates due to the masses of people eager to enter the festival. It gave us the chance to meet some Bolivians and enjoy the taste of the traditional Bolivian beer, Pacena.

Two days later at around 7pm we made our way to Tihuanacu for Aymara New Year. It is rather ironic that this is celebrated at the ruins in Tihuanacu considering the ruins represent the history of a different people entirely.

Warned of the -20 degree temperatures that are typical of the evening we wrapped up in our many layers and made our way to the town centre. We were all suffering from a cold and were slightly worried about the fact that it was another 7 hours until the celebration began. As midnight finally arrived we had already been in the cold for three hours, had eaten as much as we could bare and were all struggling to keep our eyes from closing. The atmosphere of the night was much like New Year anywhere in the world…everyone was very relaxed drinking and dancing along to the live band.

At 12:30pm we made the executive decision to go home. We were all sniffling and couldn’t see ourselves surviving in the cold until 6am when the Aymara people celebrate the New Year. We still managed to soak up as much of the evening as possible and were glad to rid us of the overpriced entrance fee that was being charged to foreigners!

For the next few days we were back in La Paz finalising our articles and booking different hostels for the rest of our trip. Nina and I were forced also to research the problems at the border between Copacabana and Puno that have caused mayhem for the past few weeks. Many travellers have been stopped from crossing between countries or have otherwise been forced to walk miles as bus lines have refused to transport tourists due to many attacks on buses. We ended up booking a flight to Cusco from La Paz to avoid the dangers that continue to arise in the area and to avoid overstaying our visa in a country where there is a price to pay for neglecting the rules.

Bolivia is known throughout South America for having the World’s Most Dangerous Road, a very narrow, windy, steep 63km strip of rocky road that winds up at the small village of Coroico. Eager to make the most of this road, more commonly known as “Death Road”, we signed up with Gravity tours to mountain bike-ride down the road.

As the road has resulted in many casualties over the years, before beginning the ride each person must sign a declaration saying the company takes no responsibility for any injuries or deaths which occur during the five hour descent.

The journey begins on asphalt, however it is not long before we arrive at the rocky surface that we become so familiar with for the rest of the day. It is thrilling to ride down through the trees with an incredible view across the valley. At some stages of the ride it is slightly unnerving as you can see the 500m-drop to the bottom and stories start arising about the many deaths that have occurred along the way.

Within the first few kilometres of the ride we were told to put our cameras away and get off our bikes to pass through what appeared to be a very strict checkpoint. Each car that was descending the mountain was checked for chemicals that could be used in the production of cocaine, and each car that ascended for the actual substance itself. As we were without bags the guards considered us fairly harmless, and we passed through without being searched.

We were fortunate enough to have the owner of the company, Alistair, on our ride as he was testing our New Zealand guide, Chad, as to whether he was good enough to join the Gravity team. Alistair informed us that there are over thirty companies that take groups down the death road, but that there is only one other he would recommend to take. I understood his reasoning during the ride when I would watch as other group leaders flew down the hill encouraging the riders to keep up, neglecting to give any sort of guidance to the ignorant riders. Alistair told us that it is these companies that are the ones responsible for the deaths on the road, and he said the cause of many is testosterone exceeding ability.

Interestingly enough Alistair (slightly frustratingly) told us that if one of the other companies loses a rider over the edge they will often wait for the Gravity guides to come and rescue the person, knowing that they have the correct safety equipment (which many of the companies lack).

The ride was a truly exhilarating experience, and ironically there wasn’t a moment when I really felt unsafe (which says something-wait until you see the road!). I was glad we each decided not to compromise our safety and to go with the most expensive company.

At the end of the ride we were given a souvenir t-shirt and were taken to the Animal Refuge in Coroico. We were served a buffet lunch, were treated to clean bathrooms and showers and were given the opportunity to visit the various wildlife housed in the refuge.

I was feeling very sick by this stage (from a big week) so I opted not to do the flying fox however Maryam and Nina flew across the valleys and said it was a very fun experience.

We then began the three-hour ascent up the same, very windy road and arrived back in La Paz at 9pm that same evening. Having been invited by Vampi to go to “Ignition”, a very exclusive party in the wealthy district of La Paz, we took off our biking clothes and replaced them with our best attire. San Juan, a typically Spanish festival, falls on the 23^rd of June as is likewise celebrated in South American nations. Ignition was a party designed to coincide with San Juan and provide the youth with an event to enjoy the evening.

Walking through the entrance to the party as five ‘gringos’, we felt very obviously out of place, as there was not another foreigner within a hundred miles of the party. After a few drinks, dancing and laughs with our Bolivian friends, the feeling faded and we enjoyed the night.

Saturday night we hosted a small gathering at our apartment to catch up with our friends. Gato and his girlfriend, Guido, Vampi, Darko and a few of their friends joined us for some rounds of Four Kings and to sit around and enjoy our view over La Paz.
Sundays are very slow in La Paz, as like many other world cities, everything closes and there is little to do. We spent the day organising further our trip and finalising our flight details.

Monday morning we left for a two-day journey to Lake Titicaca. We boarded a micro for 17bs and arrived in Copacabana three hours later. Copacabana is a small lakeside town that thrives on tourism and is known for serving trout, the fish that was brought to the lake many centuries ago to provide the citizens with some protein for their diet.

We checked into Hostal 6 de Agosto and spent the afternoon wandering through the few streets in the town. We visited the Cathedral and admired its internal gold decoration, however having spent so much time in Italy there are few churches that live up to those exquisitely-decorated Cathedrals in Roma.

We had an early dinner at Coffee-Shop Copacabana, where we were served an extremely generous portion of spaghetti Bolognese as we watched the sun set over the lake. Having booked our tour of Isla Del Sol for early the following morning, we had a very early night.

The following day we travelled by boat from the Northern end of the Island to the South, stopping in three small villages along the way. There was little to do at the villages aside from sit by the lake and soak up the sun, so this is exactly what we did. Being a water person, I was glad to finally be by the water after being in a landlocked country for two months.

When we arrived back in Copacabana that same afternoon we had a few hours to kill before our bus left for La Paz…so what better to do than sit down in a café and eat! However it is important that I mention this experience, as it was at this particular restaurant that we were each treated to a gastronomic delight. Nina had fried eggplant with vegetables, Seni ate a plate of fajitas and I indulged in the best falafels I have eaten (aside from at the Orgasmic café in good ol’ Lismore). The journey home was much the same as the way there, and after a big day of travelling and eating we spent much of it asleep in the backseat of the micro.

For the last few days we have been soaking up the scenes in La Paz that we have become so fond of over the past few months. Vampi, Seni, Nina and I have been enjoying the last of each others company before we head to Cusco and Seni returns to Denver to start Uni. It is going to be a sad farewell not only to the city that we have made our home but also the many people that we have made friends with here. We also met the two new interns for this month, and it is strange to think that the apartment will be so empty with only two. Tonight we intend on having a nice gathering at the apartment as a sort of farewell with the whole crew - Nina, Seni, Vampi, Robbie, Nieva, Darko, Ivan, Sharoll, Gato and Juan. Tomorrow we are entering the next stage of our journey, and it is a very exciting prospect for the both of us!

Sucre & Potosi

2011-06-23T15:31:00.000-07:00

Eager to make the most of our last week with Cami in Bolivia, we decided a three-day trip through Sucre and Potosi, two of Bolivia’s most impressive cities, would be the perfect way to do so.

After another long, cold, overnight bus ride we arrived in Sucre early on Tuesday morning. A very aesthetically interesting city, Sucre is filled with Colonial-style, white buildings that remind me of a typical European scene. Sucre is politically a very important Bolivian city, as it remains the country’s first and true capital. La Paz is now considered the capital having won the war against Sucre for the status as capital, and as a result, the government moved to La Paz.

We have now become accustomed to arriving in cities in the very early hours of the morning when absolutely nothing is open; so we spent the first few hours of the day sitting in the city’s main Plaza (just as we were forced to do in Cochabamba weeks earlier). However it is a great way to take in the atmosphere of the city and to appreciate the architectural beauty of the surrounding buildings.

By the time it ticked over to 9am we were grateful to see the doors of one of the nearby cafés opening so that we could regain some energy with a big breakfast, and to give us the chance to plan our day in Sucre.

Having only just left the café an hour later we were interrupted by a mass of young children marching in protest of the degradation of the environment. Each separate class of children was dressed each in a unique theme to reflect their personal argument about the topic. The protest was characterised by children dressed as animals, clouds, trees, the ocean and some infants were cleverly dressed in costumes made entirely of recycled juice wrappers. After snapping a few photos of these gorgeous children we made our way to the Casa de la Libertad – the National History Museum.

For only a small fee of 15b (approx $2), we were taken on an interesting journey through the museum and subsequently the history of Bolivia, knowledgably narrated by a Bolivian guide. The history of this fantastic country has to interest anybody…the fact that the Bolivians have been robbed of so much over the centuries- their silver, their coastline and their territory, and the way that they continue to fight for even the smallest victories in the present day. The tour lasted over an hour and was well worth the money, and as Bolivia lacks the funds to maintain its museums and galleries, the museum wouldn’t have been overly insightful without the addition of the guide.

I’m not going to dwell on this point, but it is in some ways upsetting visiting the museums and galleries in this country that have clearly seen better days. In the Museum of Contemporary Art in La Paz one cannot help but notice the way paintings are crammed next to one another, with some beginning to lose their paint. When in any first world country money would be poured into restoring these works, in Bolivia the funds are insufficient and as a result there is the possibility that they may eventually be lost forever.

On a lighter note, it was in Sucre that we absolutely had to try the saltenas (the delicious, meat-filled pastries that I have no doubt mentioned in previous blogs). Cami’s Rough Guide to Bolivia claimed Sucre was the home of the best saltena, however my more reliable Lonely Planet recommended Potosi as the saltena King. After some serious comparisons at the lunch table, we all decided that it was in fact La Paz that served the best saltenas, and we were glad to get back to our favourite restaurant in Sopocachi – Pacena La Saltena.

Positioned in the centre of the main park in Sucre is Gustave Eiffel’s very own miniature creation of his famous Eiffel Tower in Paris. Eager for a walk after what seemed like hours of constant eating we ventured into the park and spent some time climbing the rather unexciting tower and taking some photos of the city. Being a big fan of people watching, I did enjoy relaxing in the park watching the people as they went about their daily routines.

We had then planned to visit the Textiles Museum, apparently a very impressive display of Indigenous textiles from some native groups in Bolivia, however it was unfortunately closed for reconstruction. By this stage it was the early afternoon and we had already booked a bus to Potosi for 6pm that evening. With no further recommendations as to ‘must-sees’ in Sucre from either guidebook, we spent the next few hours wondering the streets and admiring the truly unique colonial architecture that covered the entire city.

Despite having been given many warnings, nothing could have prepared us for the freezing temperatures that are [typical] of Potosi. We left the bus and swiftly made our way to our hostel, La Casona. After checking in to our twelve-bed dorm, we searched for a nearby restaurant to defrost and enjoy a quick dinner. We were delighted to find an authentic Italian restaurant a mere block from the hostel that served generous portions of pasta, and more importantly, was fitted with a big fireplace. We returned to the hostel fairly late that night and went straight to bed, eager to get a decent sleep before we entered the mines the following morning.

After believing we would have to traipse around for hours to find a reliable tour company, we were relieved to discover that our hostel arranged its own mine tours with an English-speaking guide.
For the next ten minutes we were all preoccupied arranging our outfits – the jacket, helmet, headlight, wide pants and stray rope. Unable to contain our laughter at the sight of five hopeless foreigners dressed as miners, we took some group photos and introduced ourselves to the others in the group. Tim, another British traveller, was a part of our tour and has become a friend of ours in the weeks since the mines, spending some time at our apartment and sharing many of his stories about his nine months in South America.

Before reaching the mines our minibus stopped at the “Miners Market” where we listened to an introduction about the mines and purchased some coca leaves, alcohol, gloves and juice for the miners. Each day the hundreds of miners enter the Mountain without a single scrap of food, and they survive purely off these gifts that are offered by tourists and are shared among the miners. We were also each lucky enough to try a swig of the 96% pure alcohol. As I took a sip it burned the skin around my lips and felt dry as it slipped down my throat.

Even before stepping into one of the many tunnel entrances that are scattered across the side of the mountain, the dangers to both the miners and subsequently the visitors are clearly evident. The safety regulations that would be legally enforced upon mine operators in many first world countries simply don’t exist in Bolivia.

There was only a thin, cotton facemask that separated each of us from the deadly asbestos and arsenic that is known to be present in the mines. Eager to embark on the journey, it is this thought that I stored away at the back of my mind to reflect on once out of the mines. We each took our last deep breaths of fresh air and followed two of the miners through a small tunnel into the mountain. We were told to be able to recognise two important commands when inside the mines; “Guarda”- be careful and “Tido” – RUN.

The inside of the tunnel is exactly as one would imagine, muddy floors, rocky walls and suspicious substances dripping from every surface. The Bolivian miners work with the most basic of tools – they chip away at the rock with the smallest of hammers, many of their trolleys are broken and must be pushed by the miners themselves (as opposed to wealthier mines when much of this work is electronic).

After climbing around a number of claustrophobic tunnels we were asked to climb a very unsteady ladder to which we would arrive at one of areas where the miners were performing the explosions. Eager to see this in action, I climbed the ladder and was greeted by two men drilling thirty cylindrical holes in the face of the rock. Probably the most frightening episode of the whole tour was in this small space… screaming in Spanish one of the miners came running at Nina, Cami, Seneca and I and cut a pipe which released a substance that sprayed all over us. While we were later told it was harmless gas, it was the whole scene which just made us nervous. As we made our way back down to a ‘safe spot’ to witness the explosion, we were all told to turn off our headlights and wait. Thirty small explosions in two-second intervals followed, and as we stood there in the pitch black I couldn’t help but compare the feeling to an electronic party. The adrenaline levels were certainly high at this point.

It is a very awakening, and at some times emotional experience entering the mines and seeing first-hand the harsh conditions that these men face each day. It is not only the visible dangers such as runaway trolleys and falling rocks that they must survive, but also the presence of asbestos and arsenic (left from the dynamite residue) that hide precariously in the air.

For the next two hours we continued through the tunnels climbing further and further into the mountain, along the way meeting a number of friendly miners who gratefully accepted our gifts- which are mere necessities for these men.

Our guide, Juan, an ex-miner himself, informed us that the lifespan of a Bolivian miner is much shorter than that of the average man. He explained many suffer from different forms of lung cancer as a result of the chemicals in the air and the masses of cigarettes smoked to prevent the lasting famine day after day.

As we climbed higher, the air became thinner, the temperatures hotter. At one stage our guide was warning us that the thick layer of grey residue on the rock is arsenic left over from the dynamite, and it was at this stage that I conveniently cut my hand on the rock. He assured me on numerous occasions that it is thankfully only harmful if swallowed.

As we retraced our steps along the muddy tracks towards the exit, we were taken to one last area where sat a carved figure blanketed with streamers, coca leaves and cigarette butts. “Tio” is the miners’ holy figure who ensures the miners work hard and continue to discover new deposits of the minerals. As an act of thanksgiving in return for his guidance, twice a year each cooperative sacrifices two llamas and splashes its blood on the walls behind where he sits.

The sunlight that streamed through the exit to the mines really was the light at the end of the tunnel after a suffocating few hours. Having only been in the mines for a total of three hours, a wave of relief swept over the group as we left behind the claustrophobic tunnels and unpleasant conditions. For the miners, however, this feeling of relief experienced each day as they finish work is replaced by the knowledge that they will return the following morning. The braveness of these men to overcome the difficulty of their work is the prevailing memory that remains long after the micro begins the steep descent away from Cerro Ricco.

That afternoon we visited the Casa de La Moneda (the Mint) which is located in the centre of Potosi. We opted for the Spanish tour because we had been advised to do so to get the most out of the visit. Unfortunately this advice did not apply to our guide who spoke so fast that none of us could understand her, and she rushed us through each of the rooms without giving us the opportunity to have a look around and grasp what each was about. The tour was average, and looking back I wouldn’t support the rave reviews that one will find on the National Mint in the guidebooks.

We had a few hours to kill before our bus back to La Paz, so we set ourselves up in one of the cafés on the Plaza. The hours passed quickly thanks to the café’s Jenga set that became our form of entertainment until 8:30 that evening when we headed back to the bus station.

Again I felt a great wave of relief as we arrived back in La Paz. Each time we leave what now feels like OUR city to explore Bolivia we are treated with a number of exciting and interesting experiences, however these never compare to the feeling of home that sweeps over us as we unlock the door to our apartment and salute Illimani who stands beautifully still in the distance.

Salar de Uyuni

2011-06-03T20:26:00.000-07:00

It is incredible how short a time it takes for humans to feel at home in a new place. After an incredible five-day journey to the Salar de Uyuni, a sort of comfort came over me as we wound our way down the Prado into the heart of La Paz and everything became familiar again.

Before our journey to the Salar began, we had a big weekend in La Paz jumping from club to club to explore some of the most interesting nightspots in the city. Accompanied by our roommate Vampi and his friend Darko, we discovered the different atmosphere of Mongos (the club for ‘gringos’- foreigners), Traffic (known for its electric beats) and Blue (the quirky, slightly illegal spot that opens later than is allowed).

One by one we awoke on Sunday to the beautiful sunshine of La Paz and prepared ourselves for another ‘first time’ experience…a live football match between Bolivar and La Paz. This was not just any match however; it was in fact the battle for the championship trophy. Having attended and enjoyed a number of live sporting events back in Australia, I was curious to see how everything was treated in such a different country.

On arriving at the entrance to the stadium there were a number of cholitas selling what looked strangely like rectangular pieces of Styrofoam. The boys informed me that these serve as a cushion for the chairs in the stadium which I was told without the ‘cushions’, give you a very painful experience. As you can probably imagine things seemed a lot less serious in the stadium in La Paz compared to Australia…security was far more relaxed, the crowd was relatively tame (although still fun) and there was no alcohol sold on the premises.

The other obvious difference was the standard of the teams. As a group we had to laugh as ball after ball drifted far from the goalposts and resulted in a nil all draw at half time. In the second half the standard improved slightly with the end result seeing the popular Bolivar winning the game. It was definitely a worthwhile experience spent in good company.

The same evening we spent a dreadful ten hours on the bus to the Salar. Having been warned by a number of travellers of the horror that is the journey to the salt flats, I still remained surprisingly positive about the journey ahead. That is, however, until I experienced the serious rattling and bumping of the bus as it drove along the unsteady roads towards the Salar. Nina and I were also given the pleasure of sitting at the emergency exit (a sliding window that continued to open and blow freezing air over us for the entire duration of the journey)!

Functioning on a few minutes of sleep, we managed to bargain a 600 Bolivianos deal for a two night/three day tour of the Salar. Along with two French boys, two Korean women, two Australians, one Hungarian and one American guy we packed into the two jeeps that would become our means of transport for the following days.

It was at our first stop just out of Uyuni at the train cemetery that I had a devastating realisation. Having been rushed to pack due to the late start of the soccer match, I had left my camera battery on charge back in La Paz. Between us we were now left with only one digital camera.

After a few upsetting moments I decided to be positive about the fact that we at least had one camera, and that I would have a million other fantastic destinations to photograph over the next seven months.

From the train cemetery we moved on to a little village responsible for treating the salt and packaging it to then distribute to the surrounding cities. Incredibly the salt reserves that are found in Bolivia are hardly utilised, meaning the salt that is produced is transported only within the country. There are no exports of the salt meaning the poor economy misses out on the benefits from such a wealth of natural resources.

I will try to describe the absolute beauty of the Salt Flats however I feel photos and first hand experience are the only true way to appreciate the exquisiteness of the place. An incredible 2000km in circumference, the Salt Flats stretch out like a white blanket for as far as the eye can see. There are a number of layers of different minerals that compose the flats, with potassium, sodium, lithium, salt and water being the main ones. Along the flats are a number of pyramidal shaped igloos designed to dry out the salt so it can be taken to the next stage of the process. What is so fascinating about the salt flats is that while it seems there is a finite amount of salt, it is inexhaustible due to the fact that it ‘grows back’ after only a few days.

We spent an hour playing around with different camera effects and taking in the sheer enormity of the place before we were served with a traditional Bolivian delicacy, llama meat. It was served with vegetables and the typical Bolivian accompaniment of quinoa, and was rather tasteful.

After an hour or so driving across the salt flats we visited Isla Pescado, an island covered entirely in cacti. At the top of the Island we were treated to a stunning view of the salt flats which stretched for miles in every direction.

Before arriving at our hostel for the night, we made one last stop just as the sun was setting over the Salt flats. By this stage the water (which was previously absent) was now over a foot deep and as a result there were incredible reflections on the water of the surrounding mountains. Mouths agape we stood and admired the peacefulness of the site before we returned to the vehicles and drove the remaining hour to the hostel.

Made entirely of salt, the hostel was a very basic structure positioned at the foot of one of the surrounding mountains. By this stage it was the evening and we could feel the temperature dropping rapidly, Nina and I both incredibly grateful for our down jackets. The building was made of salt bricks, the floor was composed of big salt rocks and the beds were concrete slabs with a mattress on top. As you can imagine, salt does not serve as a means of insulation and as a result we spent the evening clothed in every layer we had packed for the trip.

The following day was a busy one, with our first stop at the Volcan Tunupa. At the top of the volcano were a number of holes spitting smoke, the foot of the volcano was covered in orange boulders and the remains of previous lava explosions. After the volcano we spent the day moving from lake to lake, the most impressive in my opinion being Laguna Colorada. Maryam, Nina, Seneca and I had to laugh as we sat down to another delicious lunch with the most fantastic views of the lake and the mountains encompassing it. Lunch in the midst of the mountains was a truly surreal experience.

On making our way between the lakes we were forced to stop over at a check point at which sat five armed guards. After some seemingly relaxed conversation the driver of our vehicle handed over our bottle of fizzy orange drink and we were suddenly on our way again. After questioning our guide to settle my curiosity, I learned that the men were in fact soldiers that had been punished for failing to serve the captains’ orders during training. This could be firing two shots instead of one, or failing to move fast enough in the course of action. The reason they were so eager for a drink and not money was because as a punishment they were forced to race each other around the never-ending plains and only the winner was rewarded with a small portion of food or a drink.

As the sun began to set for the end to our second day we stopped over at the final lake which was a fantastic pink in colour. Also, the most exciting factor that differentiated this last lake from the others was that it was also the home of the native Bolivian flamingos. There were flocks positioned across the diameter of the lake and having never seen these birds in the flesh before I was amazed.

The second evening was spent in dormitory-style accommodation that, despite having been warned it would be less comfortable than the previous evening, I was pleasantly surprised at how much of a relief it was to have a concrete instead of a salt floor.

The evening was spent enjoying another delicious meal cooked by our friendly cholita and some red wine to try and warm up our insides. After dinner Abel, our tour guide, treated us to some of his famous jokes…many of which caused excessive laughter from the rest of us due to the meanings being lost in translation. With our 5am start in mind, I headed to bed at 11 to try and get some sleep.

Early the next morning in absolutely freezing temperatures we made our way to Laguna Verde. While its name translates to ‘green lake’, unfortunately it is only in summer that it is indeed green however we were still able to appreciate the site. Interestingly enough we were also informed that it is an important spot for scientists from around the world who visit the site frequently due to its stark similarities to Mars.

As the temperature had dropped freakishly low the next step in our journey was close to being the most satisfying. We shed our eight layers and dived into the hot spring which was at a comfortable 38 degrees. After our bodies had defrosted, we sadly had to dress and begin our eight hour journey back to Uyuni. Unfortunately our driver had a passion for Christian preaching music and so much of our journey was spent trying to heighten the volume on our iPods to block out the ranting.

Our bus trip from Uyuni to La Paz was much the same as the first trip, a horrible and uncomfortable ten hours. However this is such a small downside to the experience that even now I struggle to remember it. The lonely planet recommends this trip as one of the top ten things to do in Bolivia, and this is definitely the case. It is a breathtaking exhibition of the many wonders of nature and their power to capture the attention of travellers from across the globe.

Cochabamba... and Bolivian Protests.

2011-05-24T16:31:00.000-07:00

At 11pm on Monday night, Maryam, Camilla, Seneca, Nina and I boarded the overnight bus to Cochabamba. We were delighted to find that by paying an extra 20 Bolivianos (about $3) on top of the average fare, we were treated to bus-style luxury. The seats reclined almost to a horizontal angle and there was mounds of leg room.

We arrived at the Cochabamba bus station at 6am before the rest of the city had woken, and as a result we were forced to spend a few hours in the horrible train station café. It did however allow us some time to plan the rest of our day and regain some energy.

Located almost directly behind the bus station is a giant hill with a statue of Christ standing on a pedestal with women and their children gathered at his feet. It was constructed to honour the women who fought against the Spanish invaders in the War of Independence in 1812 in Cochabamba. From the top of this hill there is a panoramic view of the city of Cochabamba encompassed by the ranges, a strange contrast to La Paz which looks down on the mountains.

The remainder of the morning was spent wondering through La Cancha, the enormous market in the centre of the city, and browsing through the streets of Cochabamba. One of the most spectacular sites is the Plaza 14^th de Setiembre. Filled with beautifully groomed gardens and a vintage stone fountain, the plaza is a very relaxed and popular spot to soak up the sun and watch the children feeding and playing with the pigeons.

A stark difference between Cochabamba and La Paz is the temperature. We unfortunately discovered this as we were making our way up to the top of the hill to the statue of Christ and were hit by a heatwave. When we reached the enormous Christ we were again treated to a fantastic view of the city and the surrounding mountains. Before ascending the mountain were proudly notified by a number of Bolivians that it is in fact slightly taller than the famous statue of Christ is Rio.

To escape the worst of the heat, we passed the afternoon immersing ourselves in the different cultural activities around the city. We visited the Natural History museum which appeared from the outside like a very run down, ghost house. The exhibition was hardly anything to get excited about as it contained few displays and was focused mainly on fossils, an aspect of history of which I am not overly interested in. However our visit to the Palacio de Simon I. Patino made up for it.

The Palace is an incredible mix of classic architecture and beautifully sculptured gardens. Patino’s wealth is evident in the fantastic interior design of the palace which contains a mixture of relics from all over the world. He was very interested in the artisans of Europe and had much of the art, furniture and fabrics that now decorate the interior of his palace shipped out to Bolivia from Europe. Surrounding the walls of the palace is a fantastic, Japanese-inspired garden which is a peaceful haven for many birds and animals alike. Unfortunately Patino died before he was given the opportunity to live in his dream home (as it took twelve years to finish), however his family still continue to visit the house.

What I found most fantastic about the palace is that it is now utilised as a cultural centre, and is the host of many exhibitions and formal meetings. I thought it quite unusual but at the same time very sensible that an historical site such as this continue to be utilised, as in many other countries palaces such as this remain untouched for fear of it being damaged.

Burritos and fresh juices were on the menu for both dinner and lunch that day…we were so impressed by both the taste and cost of the food at lunch that we had to return to the Mexican restaurant for dinner!

The rest of the evening we lazed around in Café Paris, consuming a gourmet banana split crepe and some freshly ground coffee, waiting to meet up with Mads, an ex-Bolivian Express intern who lives in the city. Due to a number of bus delays on her behalf as well as a scheduled departure time on ours, our gathering was fairly short lived. At 11pm that same evening we again boarded the bus expecting to arrive in La Paz at 6am the following morning…. how wrong we were!

The return journey was certainly the highlight of my trip to Cochabamba, and perhaps of my entire journey to date. At 5am our coach stopped in a tiny town known as Calamarka where it remained stationary for the next 9 hours or so. After having drifted back to sleep after the initial stop, I woke again at 8am frustrated that we hadn’t moved a single metre.

Interested to see the cause of our delay, Nina, Cami and left the bus. We were each guessing at what it could be; laughing that it was probably a protest (considering I have not had a single day in Bolivia and haven’t seen a protest of some description). Ironically, we were correct. Our coach was one of about 100 other buses and cars stuck in a roadblock due to the work of a small Indigenous group of protesters.
Despite the fact that the bus drivers seemed not the slightest bit phased by the roadblock as if it were a regular occurrence, we were eager to take a closer look.

We approached the group of protesters to enquire about their motives for the protest, and they informed us that they were trying to get the attention of the government to better acknowledge Indigenous rights. They had worked all of the night to block the road with a large pile of rocks, on top of which stood a burning tyre and Bolivia’s Indigenous flag. We got a few photos with the men, and then the leader of the group grabbed the arm of both Cami and I and started dancing with us, much to the amusement of his friends.

Despite the fact that the protest could have been a dangerous environment for five obviously foreign travellers, we were treated incredibly kindly not only by the protesters, but also the policemen, the Cholitas and the local village people.

After an hour or so of viewing the protesters from a short distance, we returned to the bus to find two Cholitas cleverly positioned near the door to the bus. On noticing the build up of cars they had taken the opportunity to cook up an enormous batch of quinoa and salsa to serve to the hungry travellers. We feasted on two plates of quinoa with salsa and cheese; meanwhile the Cholitas laughing compared us to birds as we all huddled around to plate to peck at the food. It is small actions like this however that truly break the cultural boundaries and allow both us as foreigners to feel more like locals, and at the same time earns us the respect of the Bolivians who are impressed when we are eager to immerse ourselves in the local traditions.

A small, gorgeous little Bolivian boy was the focus of much attention for the next few hours as we watched him amuse himself with an empty coke bottle. It is so nice to see children who haven’t been exposed to the wrath of consumerism that is so prevalent in most first world countries these days.

This little boy was clearly a rascal as his mother was forced to chase him all over the place, but his gorgeous and very friendly persona obviously charmed her as it did everyone else who watched him. After he was used to us sitting near him, he came up and offered me the bottle, and for the next while we played games together.

After having sat at this tiny village for over four hours, we were offered by some Bolivians to share a micro for the last hour into La Paz for a small fare. Considering we hadn’t showered in over 48 hours, and because we still didn’t know when the roadblock would be cleared, we gladly accepted the offer and farewelled our temporary friends.
The police and the local Indigenous people negotiated an agreement and the protest ended in a very civil manner.

On Saturday night in a groovy little street known as Calle Jaen there was the ‘Night of the Museums’. We frequented the cultural evening for a short while however it was so crowded that the line to get into the museums stretched the entire lengths of the street. We shared some pizzas in a groovy little restaurant and enjoyed the live music and market stalls set up for the occasion.

We did manage to slip into the photography exhibition where one of the designer from the Bolivian Express was exhibiting one of his photos. It was a fantastic shot of the champion Cholita wrestler of 2005 holding her victory belt above her head, although still dressed in her traditional Cholita dress. It was taken outside her very basic house and the contrast of the dull building with her bright attire was what made the photo so fantastic. We were all delighted to learn that Gato (the photographer) had also been one of the few artists to sell his photograph.

Later that same night we shared some drinks at home before heading out with our housemate Vampi and his friend Darko to Forum, one of the local clubs. We had a very enjoyable night dancing to the local music and hanging out with the guys.

Over the past few weeks we have been sampling all of the street foods in La Paz, all of which are very simple and delicious. Choripan is a crunchy baguette filled with a German-style sausage, tomato, lettuce and spicy sauces. Tocomanas are similar to saltenas (mentioned in the previous blog), but are fried instead of baked. Anticucho can be found on small barbeques after about 7pm and is beef heart with potatoes. Initially I was slightly hesitant to indulge in all of these meaty foods as I am not an overly keen meat-eater, however I felt it important to experience the culture of La Paz. The other thing I really value about street food in Bolivia is that it is a very social and relaxed atmosphere, as people often stop just for a few minutes and huddle around the Cholita as she prepares the meal, and then remain for a further few minutes to enjoy it.

It has been a busy few days at the Bolivian Express with deadlines approaching as well as our usual Spanish and journalism classes still keeping us occupied. We have now all written two articles for this month, and will do the same in the coming few weeks for the July issue.

The next few weeks however we have some serious plans for exploring more of the Bolivian countryside. I imagine my next blog will be a lengthy one as I recall the ins and outs of our proposed excursions. I hope you can wait until then…

Barbies & Bananas in Bolivia

2011-05-13T13:36:00.000-07:00

A number of interesting, and in some cases unusual, things have happened since my last blog on La Paz…

La Paz is well known for it’s rich market scene and extensive range of products on offer at these markets. In fact, there is almost no need to make a trip to the supermarket. At our local Mercado Rodriguez, not only is there a diverse array of fresh bread, fruit and vegetables, but one can also find spices, nuts, barbie dolls, beauty products, bread, cheese, pasta, rice, toiletries, electronic appliances, cows tongues, fish, llama foetuses, clothing… and the list goes on. It is also nice to see the friendly cholitas (some of whom manage to transport all of their produce to and from the market in a bag slung across their back) on the receiving end of the payment as apposed to a faceless supermarket franchise.

While the market scene can be bustling and exciting, unfortunately it was also at Mercado Rodriguez that I had a rather confronting experience. Before arriving in Bolivia I had read a lot about the fact that, because the Bolivian culture remains very traditional, many of the cholitas are against tourist photographing them. However, as I had already spent a week in La Paz and hadn’t experienced any problems, I thought perhaps it had been an exaggeration. When, [however], I was taking a photo of one of the stalls with masses of apples piled on top of each other on the corner of a bench, the owner of the stall started screaming at me in Spanish. I walked away quickly fearing that my lack of Spanish would only aggravate her further. I understand why she was upset, and I felt very guilty, wishing I had been more careful to begin with.

On a lighter note, this day was also memorable as it was the first time I tried the traditional Bolivian delicacy of ‘Salteñas’. An ovular shaped pastry filled with your choice of vegetables, beef or chicken, this delicious and very popular street food is found all over La Paz and is available until the early hours of the afternoon. They can be bought both on the street and in specialised restaurants, however due to the liquidity of the sauce, I believe they are enjoyed much more if seated and accompanied with a jugo de tumbo (a fruit that tastes similar to passionfruit).

The weekend was spent lounging around with the other interns, Camilla (UK) and Seneca (USA), with Sunday bringing the addition of our final intern for the months of May and June. Maryam, another British traveller, was welcomed into the Bolivian Express penthouse early on Sunday morning. The strangest and most entertaining thing we have discovered since sharing a number of days together is that, despite the fact we are all English-speaking individuals, our assortment of accents make discussions much more complicated than those when we are trying to communicate in Spanish. A discussion about ‘thongs’ must be clarified with the addition of ‘flip flops’, cooking instructions become complicated when Nina and I are told to roast the ‘aubergines and courgette’ instead of the eggplant and the zucchini (and by this stage Nina and I are feeling a lot less classy. These episodes never cease to create a table full of girls bursting with laughter, with the speaker adding further explanation before the most innocent of stories can turn awkward for at least one of us seated.

This week Nina and I have felt more like journalists (having been given our very own press passes and everything!) as we have been navigating through La Paz in order to meet various interviewees for out article on Afro-Bolivians. I won’t go into detail about the nature of our article, as I don’t want to spoil the surprise for when it is finally published as part of the Bolivian Express! However it has led us on an interesting journey in which we ended up meeting an Afro Bolivian, Jorge Medina, who is fairly high up in the ranks, but is at the same time a very laid back guy.

On the way to one of our many meetings we passed a room that look suspiciously full of people and had guards stationed by the door, so we moved closer for a better look. Nina and I were in hysterics when we discovered all of the commotion was to celebrate the National Festival of the Potato. Ironically it seemed like a serious affair, with a number of men in suits and large-scale posters lining the walls!

“Alascitas” is a festival held in Bolivia every year in late January/early February. It is a ceremony in which Bolivians buy miniature objects from market stalls to give to Ekeko, the household god of abundance (a chubby guy with rosy cheeks). In return for their offerings, Ekeko watches over the house and ensures the family everlasting happiness. By the end of the year, the Bolivians are supposed to get (in it’s proper size) their object of desire. Before our consumerist society, the offerings used to be daily necessities such as farm animals or vegetables. Nowadays however, one can purchase miniature sized airplane tickets, cars, ipods, drivers’ licenses and even marriage (and divorce) certificates! Unfortunately I wasn’t in La Paz for this festival but I found it so interesting when Camilla told me about her experience of Alascitas that I thought it worth a mention!

After Tom’s gut wrenching (both literally and metaphorically) experience last year in Argentina and now my week of serious diarrhoea and vomiting, I believe it can be said that South America is not fond of the Wolffs. After two visits to the doctor I have discovered I have a bacterial infection. However having been given a course of antibiotics I am hopefully on the mend!

Adios.

A few other interesting things to note about La Paz:

Each of La Paz’ tiny buses (micros) is equipped with a screamer. The screamer is the individual stationed by the window (or door) screaming out the various destinations of the micro in the hope of gaining a few more travellers.

At a number of the main pedestrian or ‘zebra’ crossings, there are humans dressed as zebras entertaining and dancing for the tourists, whilst at the same time attempting to direct the traffic (but really just getting in the way).

Don’t be fooled by taxis…what may from the outside look like a taxi can also serve the purpose of a minibus. Nina and I had an experience when, thinking we were taking our own taxi back to the apartment, we made another four stops along the way… eventually piling in another four (and not overly slim) people.

P.s. This is a seriously cool bar hidden in our street - it is made entirely from recycled metal!

La Paz

2011-05-05T13:57:00.001-07:00

There is no other city like La Paz.

Situated a stunning 3660m above sea level and built in between mountainous peaks it cannot be described as anything less than incredible...and sitting in the penthouse of the Edificio 20 de Octubre with a panoramic view of a sea of orange lights I have to pinch myself.

Nina and I arrived in La Paz to a beautiful, sunny, Saturday afternoon. The sky was a piercing blue and clouds were scarce. As we wound our way down the side of the hill away from El Alto and the airport and into La Paz we couldn't really digest what stretched out in front of our eyes. The traffic is total mayhem, the streets are built on freakishly steep slopes and the houses are dotted all over the uneven terrain. It is fantastic!

A Japanese man insisted on taking a photo of us due to the fact that we looked so ridiculous!

This great city is now our home for the next two months. For those who aren’t already aware, Nina and I are participating in a journalism program at the Bolivian Express, a monthly magazine that is distributed all over La Paz (in restaurants, cafes, on airplanes etc). For the next two months we are working alongside three other interns from around the world, as well as a permanent team of editors and journalists to produce the monthly issue.

Before we began our time with the Bolivian Express however, Nina and I checked into the Onkel hostel in Sopocachi, La Paz. It gave us the perfect opportunity for a few days of exploring the city and ultimately to get a real feel for the place.

As Saturday evening quickly approached, too exhausted to think, we consulted with our trusty Lonely Planet for a nice place to eat out, eventually deciding on the Star of India. As it’s name suggests, this restaurant serves traditional Indian curries and is hidden at the top of one of the many steep streets in La Paz. It is at the Star of India that tourists are able to eat (or attempt to eat) what the restaurant claims to be ‘the spiciest vindaloo in South America’. If the bowl is polished off completely, the individual is then rewarded with a promotional t-shirt as their very own claim to fame. While this may sound like a weak attempt to justify our non-attempt…it was our first night in Bolivia, and my travel companion is not a fan of spicy food. So, afraid to brave it alone, I have put it off for the time being.

On both Sunday and Monday much of the city was closed due to the annual Labour Day holiday. As a result we spent much of the day wondering through the endless food markets, admiring the Bolivian women, ‘cholitas’, in their traditional and highly decorative ‘polleras’ (layered skirts made from beautiful local fabrics), and taking in the incredible view of the mountains that can be admired from many spots around the city.

Apart from it’s unique geographical position and obvious attachment to traditional culture, La Paz is also known for it’s highly unusual, and at the same time very dangerous San Pedro prison. It is now the focus of much attention due to the recently released Marching Powder, a book that follows the life of a British drug dealer who spent years behind the bars of the prison. His biography exposes the corrupt nature of the jail and the cocaine dealing that goes on between numerous individuals, and not just the inmates! Nina and I are yet to tour through the prison due to the fact that it is now illegal, and also because we watched as two Australian boys were robbed of their chance when the ‘tour guide’ ran off with their money. It was a little bit unsettling when we discovered the prison was in fact located on the corner opposite our hostel!

Later that evening we navigated our way through the streets to the Bolivian Express building where we joined the rest of the team for a farewell dinner for one of the interns. It was an enjoyable night…many stories were shared, wine was drunk and there was an impressive buffet of home cooked food to go around.

For the past few days we have been settling in to our new apartment, which in case I haven’t already mentioned is in fact a penthouse. We are therefore treated each day and night to a panoramic view of the city, and I almost feel as if I could give the daily weather report. Yesterday was fantastic…we had a magnificent view of the rain (which later developed into hail) as it swept over the mountains and descended onto the city of La Paz.

Before the storm...

During the storm

Today we visited Zona Sur, the most upmarket suburb of La Paz that lies in the lower altitude region (ironically, unlike in many European nations the lower class citizens live in the higher altitude regions with the best views, and the wealthier congregate at the bottom of the valley). We were eager for some shopping and an adventure beyond the boundaries of Sopocachi.

There is a notable difference between Zona Sur and the rest of the city, and it is clearly evident in the rows of relatively high-end fashion boutiques and gourmet delicatessens which cannot be found in the centre of La Paz. Although it is situated towards the bottom of the valley, the inhabitants of Zona Sur are likewise treated to stunning views of the mountains.

I’d describe our day as a bit of a splurge…we each treated ourselves to a few incredibly good value, niche items of clothing as well as a treat from the gourmet bakery. However having been at the doctor only several hours earlier trying to treat poor Nina’s illness we felt it was well deserved!

The bakery

Caledoscopio...the shop where many a purchases were made!

Now it is time to continue exploring La Paz and enjoy living as an intern at the Bolivian Express.

Farewell Santiago

2011-05-01T08:10:00.000-07:00

A wide smile simultaneously appeared on the faces of both Nina and I as we woke on our final day in Santiago to the warm autumn sun. Having experienced Santiago’s freezing winds and low temperatures the past few days we were grateful to be able to shed a layer and comfortably move around the shady regions of the city.

After a big day at Valparaiso on Tuesday, Wednesday we decided to hop on the metro and venture back into the city to check out some of the art galleries we had been shown during the walking tour.

Another great thing about Santiago of which I am yet to mention, is the reliability and frequency of the city trains. Not once have I (or Nina for that matter) had to look at the metro timetable, instead each time we descend the stairs to the platform there seems to always be a train either already stopped or just pulling in to the station. Also, the ticketing system works in a simple manner- you buy a card, top it up with money, and it subsequently allows you access to any stage of the railway. It also has the other nice feature of making you feel like more of a local.

The first stop was the Cultural Centre in the heart of Santiago. It is a fascinating building hidden underneath the grand entrance to the parliament house. The most interesting exhibition inside the centre was a collection of works from artists affected by the recent devastating Chilean tornado which claimed over 500 lives. The exhibition was designed to support the needs of the survivors with the profits going towards necessities for day-to-day living. The collection was inspiring to say the least, with an impressive array of creative techniques including weaving, knitting, jewellery design and clay works on display.

When we had finished in the gallery, it was lunchtime (3pm). We found a fantastic little restaurant ‘El Naturista’ in the middle of the city, in between the rows of office buildings. We later discovered we weren’t the only ones attracted to the restaurant as we slid behind an already extensive line of people stretched out the door. El Naturista is an incredibly well run business with what appears to be over 15 staff catering for the needs of the thousands of diners that pass through each day. In the time we sat in the restaurant there was never less than 10 people waiting in line to eat.

The menu offered an extensive list of vegetarian foods including homemade pasta and lasagne, salads, risotto, and a number of other Chilean delights. Nina and I were so satisfied with the quality of the food (and the reasonable prices) that it became our lunch hotspot for the following two days!

We spent the afternoon soaking up the sun in the park in the centre of the city. After an hour or so of rolling around on the grass laughing and studying those who passed by we were called over by two policemen. We first thought their intentions were to remove us from the grounds, but instead they simply wanted to know about Australia and our experience in Santiago. This general friendliness of the city police in Santiago seems to be widespread, and is a likeable feature of the city.

The next two days we continued to discover new parts of the city and navigated our way around the metro. Nina and I took a great liking to Lastarria, a groovy suburb filled with gourmet cafes, off the street galleries and niche clothing stores.

One of the best features of Lastarria is the interesting gallery inside which we viewed a great photography exhibition about the historical military coup of 1973 in Chile. More fascinating though is the gallery itself, the exterior is uniquely designed with the façade of the building made almost entirely of rusted metal. The bright orange of the rust is very unusual for a contemporary building, however it looks fantastic in the sunlight.

We also visited the second house of Pablo Neruda, “La Chascona” which is cleverly built into the hill behind Bellavista. The tour costs little and gives a great insight into his life and also into the history of communism in Chile.

Our time in Santiago has been an interesting one. The best way to sum it up is to paraphrase a passage that stood out to me in my Wallpaper guide before I left for overseas… “Get there quickly before others cotton on as Santiago is one of South America’s best kept secrets”.

Santiago de Chile.

2011-04-26T20:03:00.000-07:00

It was midday on a prolonged Easter Sunday when we stumbled up the steps of the Bellavista hostel in a somewhat dream-like state.
We were pleasantly surprised by its overwhelmingly relaxed atmosphere (when we arrived the receptionist was asleep on the couch with the music blaring) and convenient position…right in the heart of the bustling, tourist-friendly barrio Bellavista.

Our first afternoon was spent exploring the bordering neighbourhoods and ultimately getting our bearings. We sat for hours in the little ‘Patio Bellavista’, a uniquely modern cafe-and-restaurant hotspot (it reminded me of James Street market in Brisbane) with a wide selection of different cuisines to offer.

After returning to the hostel at sunset we learned of the stark similarities between Santiago and the typical European way of life…the best experiences come in the later hours of the night when the city really comes to life. The Chilean people of all ages come out at night and fill the bars and restaurants until the early hours of the morning when in Australia much of the population is asleep.

We decided the walking tour of Santiago would be the best activity for our second day in the city of six million people. It began at 3 in the afternoon so the morning was spent climbing the San Cristobal hill which stands tall in the middle of the city. It is a tiring hour hike in the sweltering sun, however the spectacular view makes up for all of the lost energy along the way. The city is hidden under a thick layer of smog which we we are later told is like ‘smoking three cigarettes a day..without actually smoking them’!

After we descended the hill it was our first chance to try out the public transport, or more specifically, the metro, which took us to the starting point of the tour. Having Nina (a fluent Spanish speaker) as my travel partner makes everything much easier, but also results in laziness on my behalf. The Spanish lessons in Bolivia will certainly put and end to these circumstances I hope!

Having received an enthusiastic recommendation from an experienced traveller, Nina and I decided the free walking tour would be the perfect introduction to the city. We rightly decided it would then give us a better idea as to the best places to visit in Santiago for the remainder of the week.

Over the next four hours we were exposed to some of the most interesting sites of the city, with (in my opinion) the most impressive feature being the groovy architecture that popped up in the most unusual of places around the city. Felipe`, our knowledgable guide, also filled the gaps of the tour with some interesting history of the city, and it was this aspect of his that gripped my attention…being a history lover and all.

That night passed much the same as the first, the jet lag resulting in a fairly early night (midnight) for the two of us.

Tuesday we rose early and met with a Chilean cousin of Nina’s, Romina, who promised to take us to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar. These are two seaside villages which are filled with colourful houses all tightly packed onto the looming hills. Valparaiso is characterised by a large percentage of poorer families, and this is evident when the bus winds up the hill and exposes the harsh living conditions of much of the area. At the top of Valparaiso is one of the three well-known houses of Pablo Neruda, the famous Chilean poet. It is a great five stories high with a fantastic view overlooking the bay and the large port which is evidently an important exporting facility.

Vina del Mar is the neighbouring bay and is a short ten minute bus ride from Valparaiso. The difference between the two villages is most obvious as the bus rounds the last corner and the Sheraton hotel is positioned right on the water’s edge. As the bus continued to wind around the point it was clear that this was both the more commercial and wealthy bay. After a quick cafe` we were keen to return to Santiago as the sun was nowhere to be seen and the temperature was freezing as a result.

We spent the evening in the kitchen of the hostel whipping up a delicious vegetable pasta with the fresh produce we sought out at Vina del Mar. Being both vegetable and fruit obsessed individuals we were pleasantly surprised by their quality and our creation as a result!

Tomorrow we hope to explore some of the more cultural sites around the city. As for now, it is time to make a cup of tea!